Textile View #129


Looking back just 10 years to 2010, it is difficult to understand how we got from there to here. It seems only yesterday that Donald Trump was a reality TV star, Boris Johnson was a jocular mayor, and Facebook was just a way of tracking down old friends, rather than a threat to western liberal democracy. It was a decade of austerity, fracking, populism and fake news. But there were also a lot of lifestyle positives: the plastics backlash, women’s rights, veganism, renewables, mental health, gender fluidity, and last, but definitely not least, women’s football.

And what do we remember in the world of fashion? The death of Alexander McQueen and Lady Gaga’s meat dress in 2010; Kate Middleton’s wedding and her sister Pippa’s derrière launching a thousand bottoms in 2011; Kim Kardashian starting a boom in front-cover pregnancy nudes and maternity wear in 2013; the arrival of the hoodie, a lightning rod for aggro and later for luxury; Kanye’s Yeezy Season 1 show in 2015 launching flesh tones and an era of streetwear that bestrode the rest of the decade; Vetements’ DHL T-shirt, ‘Call me Caitlyn’ and the start of the genderless dressing movement; fashion’s discovery of feminism in 2016, when pink became the colour of the decade, reaching new heights in January 2017 as the pussyhat at Women’s Marches across the world; Serena Williams’s Nike catsuit for her first major grand slam appearance in Paris after having a baby in 2018, the same year that body obsession and fitness, epitomised by the Love Island television series, brought us the gym craze. Then, to end the decade, the industry went through a Damascene conversion where, in the face of ‘woke’ culture and climate change protests, doing good became the hot new thing.

2020 and the decade it ushers in will undoubtedly see the end of one era and the start of another, thanks to the impact of a new generation on fashion and fashion systems, and the inescapable consequences of AI. The industry is already fighting on all fronts. It’s not just a question of rethinking business models in the face of more sustainable and responsible practices, it’s also about decreasing costs but increasing services at the same time. On the one hand, industry is looking to cut costs in stockholding, waste, distribution, speed to market, inventory, order fulfillment and customer acquisition; on the other, consumer expectations are rising in terms of self-realisation, meaningfulness, multi purposes, time and money spent, experience and responsible behaviour.

The Future of Making
Eight themes embracing an attitude shift when it comes to the basic gear we make, sell, buy and wear.

The jewellery collection by Cecile Feilchenfeldt, who wanted to reinvent jewellery without hooks or any kind of visible opening or closure, elastic jewellery. No right, no wrong; no front nor back!

Womenswear inspirations
Every aspect of the fashion industry needs to act for the future. Our stories look at different attitudes and influences that we feel are central to changes it must make.

Womenswear colours
The colour landscape for 2021 looks different, seeking out a rebalance on one level, whilst also joyfully embracing seemingly disparate elements.

Womenswear key looks
This is a season for contemplation and paying thoughtful attention to design and how it aligns with our responsibilities to sustainability.  

Womenswear fabrics
Advanced ideas continue to emerge around how things are made and how materials are sourced, developed, disposed of or regenerated. It’s a progressive evolution, so don’t expect the big seasonal switches of old.

Womenswear trimmings and accessories
We react to our overload in consumption, invent sustainable solutions and focus on a clean fashion production in a season that is more sensitive, intelligent and inventive than ever before.

Casualwear colours and styling
As dress and gender codes blur, just like the seasons, change is in the air from all directions.

Womenswear and menswear fabric and colour forecast
While designers traditionally rely on intuition and experience for problem solving, we look at computational design, which aims to enhance the process by encoding decisions using a computer language.

Print design forecast
Thoughfulness! There is no way to sneak away from sustainability. Print has to be thought as long living, not a quick ugliness of random patterns thoughtlessly thrown onto cheap fabrics for one season only.

City view
All eyes on Tokyo this summer as the Olympic Games takes over the city. The home of kitsch styling and immersive character experiences, Tokyo presents a unique offering of fashion, retail spaces and food.

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