Textile View #126


We have already talked about the return of the 1960s mini and the Mary Quant exhibition at the V&A London. Vintage is in vogue – literally so, since UK Vogue asked in its May issue: “Does your dress look vintage?”. Kim Kardashian wore second-hand Azzedine Alaïa to the Paris fashion week, while pre-natal Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, wore 1960s Dior to a christening. High street stores H&M, Arket and &Other Stories have announced they would trial vintage and second-hand clothes sales on their websites. High-end boutique Browns has also just launched the label One Vintage, which uses antique textiles to create new garments. Farfetch is launching a new pilot program, Second Life, that will allow customers to trade in their old designer handbags.

Young designers continue to mine nostalgia as a source of inspiration, thereby adding credo to wearing second-hand. Vintage also suits current Instagram trends where authenticity and originality are key. After all, when you wear second-hand, the chances of others have the same garment are hugely reduced.

But, of course, it’s not just about looks. Sustainability is the hottest topic in fashion at the moment. A study shows that, last year, 64% of women were willing to buy pre-owned pieces compared with 45% in 2016 – and it is thought that by 2028, 13% of the clothes in women’s wardrobes are likely to be second-hand. Fashion circularity, a new term referring to the recycled life of a garment, is projected to reach $51bn in five years, up from the current $24bn, according to ThredUp’s annual resale report.

Pundits might argues about what actually the difference between second-hand and vintage. For some, vintage means pre-1980s, others more than 20 years old, still others speculate about what will be collectable in 10 years time. There are drawbacks about sizing, holes and moths. Yet, according to the ThredUp 2019 resale report, resale has grown 21 times faster than apparel retail in the past three years. More important, it all reduces waste!

Publisher’s view

Wellbeing is an industry that is growing twice as fast as the global economy. The problem is that it does exactly what fashion used to do, sell you a dream version of you.

Design and lifestyle

There is an increasing awareness of environmental catastrophe and the urgency to prevent it, inspiring designers to rethink the lifecycles of products. Circularity and eradicating plastic remain the centre of attention.

Womenswear designer messages

Gone is the emphasis on athleisure and grungy casualwear and in its place is a renewed respect for beautiful, traditional cloths or conversely technical nylons.

Menswear designer messages

After years of active wear supremacy the word on the street is ‘dress properly’. However, the way in which fabrics are combined presents a fresh and forward facing attitude.  

Womenswear fabrics: the pick of the best

Every season the fabric industry seems to be faced with a new conundrum: speed to market, number of collections per season, 14-day-turnarounds, personalization, upgraded service, smaller orders… The latest mandate is sustainability and recycling.

Menswear fabric orientations

Structurally, flat and smooth contrast with a rustic charm in tailored sets, while bold jersey sports use iconic, emblematic colours that have a new immediacy.

Womenswear fabric and colour forecast

There will be an astonishing variety of textures, colours and patterns in the AW 20/21 textile collections. This will range from the quieter, understated cashmere and wool blends in muted tones to the dramatic, large-scale checks in shades of reds, black and white.

Menswear colours, styling and fabrics

A/W 20/21 brings a season of diverse and surprising colour ranges in menswear. For the most part, there is a distinguished focus on nature, from authentic earthen neutrals to palettes of intense volcanic tones inspired by alien landscapes.

Accessories & trimmings forecast and inspirations

Excessively sensual, apparent fragility, rebelliously glamorous, techno, neither austere nor radical, the feminine revolution is on its way.

Womenswear knitwear colours, yarns and styling

The balance is shifting: a desire to connect with something meaningful alongside the smart use of resources is gradually nudging out the frivolous and trashy

Menswear knitwear styling concepts

We push perceptions to create something familiar but that is actually quite strange after the first glance – the familiarity brings a sense of ease, while the unexpected stimulates. 

Knitwear Forecast Spring/Summer 2021

Designers are researching ways to undo the normal rules of making knitwear. They are either pushing construction to the almost non-existent or developing a more aggressive, sports inspired robustness.

City view

London, New York and city of the moment, Birmingham. Diversity is celebrated within Birmingham and, as one of the most inclusive cities within the UK, there is a strong sense of community here. The city continues to develop itself as a city of culture and a key European retail destination.

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