Textile View #120

They called Rei Kawakubo’s exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of New York “The Art of the In-Between” and that’s exactly where we are in fashion and textiles at the moment. Of course, fashion is always in a state of flux otherwise it wouldn’t be fashion, but the changes we are looking at, now, are far more radical and convulsive than anything seen before.Technical innovation, digitalization, individualisation and democratisation are coming together for the ‘perfect storm’ that will tear down all the existing structures around which we plan, time and create textiles. We are stepping into a new moment of fashion freedom built around the unexpected and accidental.What’s interesting is that it is the haute couture, once the bastion of convention par excellence, that is pointing the way. There, we have already seen a breaking down of barriers, not only in who attends the couture shows but in the way France’s Chambre Syndicale has invited a roster of new names onto the official schedule in a bid to inject a more global viewpoint into the exalted world of haute couture. We also saw a breaking down of barriers in the clothes shown on the runways, with denim and sportswear, even recycled effects, popping up alongside the exquisite handcrafted gowns and luxe furs, which are the hallmark of the traditional couture ateliers.
The doors are truly opening onto a brave new world!
Publisher’s view
In the fashion business, we are pretty confident that AI could never replace us, especially on the design and marketing front – but could that confidence be misplaced?
Fibres & fabrics
At all the fairs this season, the issue on everyone’s lips was ‘sustainability’. Fabric producers are eager to show what they are doing to improve production in sustainable ways
City View
Updates on London, Paris and New York, with an in-depth look at Melbourne, Australia,  no stranger to being voted amongst the top five, most liveable cities in the world, and boasting quite the cornucopia of style, culture and creative hubs.


Talking points
We need to learn from the bravery of today’s design graduates. They embrace collaboration, they dabble, roam and explore, they work with scientists, or consult older masters, they are multidisciplinary and they push through walls.


Womenswear designer colours
The S/S 2018 catwalks mirrored the mood of the moment, confirming the desire for revolution and change through a series of feel-good trends that coloured everything from the season’s disco-diva, sports-themed silhouettes to razzle-dazzle fabrics.


Womenswear designer fabrics, silhouettes and styling details
The S/S 2018 catwalks convey messages that are, at first sight, complex and confusing. It is becoming increasing more difficult to pull out clear directions and this, of course, is a direct reflection of the disorder around us all.


Menswear designer messages
Expansive thinking is called for in a fashion world that has jettisoned segments and where deliberately disorderly assemblies of influences are adopted for the mainstream market.  


Womenswear fabrics: the last additions
We are all into sustainability and the importance of the circular economy, but we are also into embellishment and fantasy. Yes, there are plenty of muted mid-tones, neutrals and re-cycled hues, but there is also a lot of brilliant, playful colour.


Womenswear fabric and colour forecast
Lightness, fresh colours and flowers usually come to mind when one thinks of spring, but fashion collections are becoming both non-seasonal and non-gender specific so we look to antique Botanical drawings of unusual foliage and flowers as inspiration for S/S 2019.


Menswear colours, styling and fabrics
Evolving lifestyles, in hand with the athleisure movement, are encouraging a transition towards enhanced comfort. For S/S 2019, this comes through in the form of lighter, more fluid and supple fabrications.


Accessories & trimmings forecast and inspirations
Accessories wake up classics, conceptualise the future, make a digression on folk and ultimately transform the mundane into desirable objects. Thanks to accessories freedom of expression has never been so wide.


Womenswear knitwear colours, yarns and styling
Sustainability issues are increasingly embedded into the design process and S/S 2019 looks for ways to increase positive environmental benefits through informed fibre choices as well as intelligent material investigations.


Menswear knitwear styling concepts
Our themes are based around some very typical menswear values and looks. We open with a homage to mid-west, American pattern and a core of new basic colours: these are followed by more rustic and functional, muted neutral stories.


Design and lifestyle Foto 8
Intelligence + empathy + foresight = real innovation