View #134

View #134

HOW TO SPEND IT?

Now that we are looking more positively on life after Covid, the big questions in the textile industry are, firstly, whether consumers will ever prioritise fashion in the way they did before coronavirus, and, secondly, what kind of clothes they are going to buy – if and when they do?

The pandemic not only wreaked havoc on the economy, but also created more inequality. For many, it has been a period of intense financial hardship, with furloughs and increased childcare responsibilities. For those people focused on purchasing essential items, new clothes have been a distant dream and fashion an afterthought, or not considered at all.

 

On the other hand, many in salaried positions and in professions such as law, banking, health and counselling were not only able to maintain their status quo but also actually build on savings. During the lockdown, it has been clear that the main groups still happy to buy (mostly online) were professionals such as these, Gen Y (with generous parents) and, of course, the eternally rich.

The general arguments that support a brisk upturn in clothes shopping – though probably not the massive revenge splurge that some dream of – are that the virus is in retreat, vaccination programmes are pushing ahead, many have money in their pockets, consumers are sick of sameness, the weather is turning, and people want to go out, feel good, be seen and socialise. But that still doesn’t tell us what they are going to wear!

According to the CNBC article So Long Sweatpants, published on 5 March 2021, Urban Outfitters reported that women are starting to gravitate back to shopping for dresses. The retailer’s Anthropologie brand stated that in the final week of February, seven of its top 10 items were dresses, while before that, it was unusual to see just one or two dresses make the list.

Some companies, however, still believe the momentum lies with loungewear, athleisure and sporty performance, and we agree! Comfort, always an apparel issue in recent years, became paramount during the pandemic. Once you are used to the ease of soft, stretchy, easy constructions, it’s very hard to give that up. Besides, who said everyone is going back to the office? Most think that companies will start to see the office as a hub and combine that with working from home, encouraging what Nordstrom calls Work-from-Anywhere Style. And, almost certainly, companies will relax dress codes as the workforce returns. One need look no further than the triumph of sneakers over high heels.

Meanwhile, many newspapers have been asking their readers about pandemic dress habits and post-pandemic intentions. At The New York Times, Vanessa Friedman concluded, “I was struck by the fact that instead of buying lots of small things, or fast fashion, most of you [readers] went all-in on just a few things, or just one very special thing”. In the Guardian, Jess Cartner-Morley six key trends for 2021 were: floaty blouses; the grown-up flat shoe; the smart cardigan; the 18-hour dress; the toffee-coloured handbag; and, of course, sweatpants!

What do we think at View? Well, there is no single answer to how everyone is going to dress once lockdown is over. But that’s how it should be since, as we have always argued, there can no longer be a ‘one solution fits all’ in post-pandemic marketing and designing, but only fragmented approaches depending on age, work conditions and lifestyle preferences. One thing is certain, however: the future will be hybrid and blended, and, whether seriously smart, sexy, fun, responsible or regenerated, it will also be comfortable!

01 Essentials
It’s everybody’s favourite guessing game: what will happen next when the Covid crisis ends? Who will be spending? When will they be spending? Where will they be spending? And, above all, what will they be buying?

The future of making  – after the crisis end

The future of brand directions – the power is in collectives

The future for designers – game changers

02. Contemporary Preview Autumn/Winter 22/23
Designers are being proactive and responsive. Some are speaking out for those who have been forgotten or downtrodden; some are placing their beliefs in a quiet and gentle approach that leads by kindness and integrity; others are angrily fighting and using the fashion platform to raise the tempo; a new swathe is deeply concerned with gender politics and inclusivity; and more and more key people are embracing vital eco issues.

Womenswear preview – back to normal is not an option

Colour messages – wrap-round colour inspired by nature

Fabric messages – transitional directions from summer to winter

Menswear messages  –  the power to move

Menswear preview – moments to dress up

Knitwear preview – creativity and technical prowess

03. Casual & Athleisure Preview Autumn/Winter 22/23

The season draws on a rekindled gratitude for nature, localism, and community. Optimism and joyfulness are a key focus, revitalised through futuristic visions that serve communities, eco-systems, and inner wellbeing. Lasting consumer anxieties are soothed through ideas that focus on comfort, protection, and the romanticism of escapism, whether in nature, or online.

Casual, athleisure and denim preview – rekindled gratitude for nature, localism and community

04. Forward Matter

A problem solving, creative thinking tribe is emerging from the old world. New ideas, new methods, new projects and new collaborations are flourishing, as if the pandemic had accelerated the challenges we are facing and the will to find alternative, interdisciplinary solutions.

Creating change – rewriting our lives

View Publications
Saxen Weimarlaan 6HS
1075 CA Amsterdam
The Netherlands

Info@view-publications.com

View #133

View #133

A NEW VIEW: A BETTER VIEW

We have been writing so much over the last year about change and a new post-covid landscape that we thought we should take a dose of our own medicine. So welcome to the new VIEW!

Transformation in both traditional publishing and orthodox fashion systems was always on the way, but the Covid-19 pandemic has accelerated this. We are now facing a very altered environment and we at VIEW Publications have been busy adapting ourselves to meet the manifold and diverse demands that come with it.

Stepping forward, we have decided to break down old fashion walls and product segmentation by combining the casual and athleisure content base of our old View2 with the modern-classic content of Textile View Magazine. In our newly styled magazine, we will be looking at ways to action and deliver ideas in a genderless, seasonless and trans-generational manner – all connected to the latest developments in responsible and sustainable manufacturing!

Welcome to a new VIEW – forecasting with ethical product solution by experts from across the industry appealing to a wide audience that covers brand strategists, designers, manufacturers, retailers and many others. We hope that you will agree that we have introduced a dynamic, younger approach concerning marketing, progressive manufacturing and responsible fashion, but kept the soul of the old View products – professionally analysed and beautifully presented trends, colours, fabrics and accessories.

01 Essentials

It’s time to venture into the unknown and explore the notion of creativity at its core. Changing the system means going beyond our established norms and merely switching up the way garments look or feel each season. Instead, it’s time to take a step back and assess each garment as a product of its origins.

The future of making – pushing for future-proof performance textiles

The future of business directions – cultivating community

The future of branding – reconnecting with nature

The future for designers – biodesign

02 Contemporary  Spring/Summer 2022

We see a friendly, interactive approach emerging: true collaboration where reciprocity is valued and warm hearted results emerge from these creative kinships. It’s a time to re-evaluate old hierarchies and move towards inclusivity with renewed passion and purpose.

Fabric Headlines – marketing and development news in fabrics and fibres

Womenswear – styling, fabrics, knits and accessories for Spring/Summer 2022

Menswear – styling, colours, suitings and shirtings for Spring/Summer 2022

03 Casual & Athleisure Spring/Summer 2022

With nature and future proofing at the forefront of consumer’s minds, product lifecycles are being put under the microscope. Forward-thinking brands are focusing on reducing material waste, creating methods of reutilising production waste or creating products derived from natural resources, which will biodegrade within a matter of days or weeks. Consumers are questioning societal norms and taking product lifecycles into their own hands, as evidenced by the continued growth in second-hand sales

Fabric Headlines – marketing and development news in fabrics and fibres

Casual, athelisure and denim concepts – fabrics and accessories for Spring/Summer 2022

04 Forward Matter
Creatives are questioning the way forward as well as debating their powers and how to use them to send positive messages and create change. A disruptive community is pointing the way by transforming extreme challenges into creative proposals and smart solutions for a more caring and respectful society. Time is running out; the new world is already here and the mainstream, orthodox system needs to keep up with this new language.

View Publications
Saxen Weimarlaan 6HS
1075 CA Amsterdam
The Netherlands

Info@view-publications.com

Textile View #131

Textile View #131

OUR FOOTPRINT No 3

Post-covid-19 lockdown and restart of economies; life goes on but not quite as we knew it.

Our worlds have been turned upside down, inside out and, as a result, so has our way of living. Socialising will be different, travel more complicated, lifestyles altered and our mind-sets reset as to what’s important. Our values and priorities have shifted from quantity to quality, fast life to slow life, more to less, local not glocal.

Our wellbeing, safety and security have created a more caring society, while at the same time, a more nervous and woke generation is questioning everything, from history to ethics, climate to culture. It’s a new world order that challenges everything in sight.

In analysing change and forecasting the impact, we see a generation of consumers who will nourish and care for each other and the planet, while others will retreat and become hibernators and online avatars. Somewhere in the middle are the new creators and innovators, looking towards a future that’s altered but, within their reach to remake and remodel.

Publisher’s view: so where are we after coming out of lockdown? Reports have highlighted several issues common to consumers across the globe: the flight to online; a back-to-basics and value-for-money mentality; diminished loyalty; the “caring” economy; the homebody economy; and, last but not least, hygiene transparency.

The Future of Making: six themes that will shape future fashion thinking. Let’s celebrate nature by embracing the notion of fake. Not as a lesser alternative to what’s natural and authentic, but as a positive choice and a fresh outlook with unique cultural associations.

Lifestyle: Dancing Feathers –  Janaïna Milheiro creates and custom-makes feather textiles and pieces for the luxury fashion and home decoration industries.

Womenswear concepts: colours, styling, fabrics & accessories across five stories: Fundamental; Homegirl; Cybernetic; Rewild; and Ignite

Casualwear colours and styling: our values and priorities have shifted from quantity to quality, fast life to slow life, more to less, local not glocal.

Menswear colours, styling and fabrics: comfort first! As casual categories and home–centric dressing further influences menswear, comfort continues as a key styling element for A/W 21/22 reinforced by softened silhouettes and indulgent fabric themes.

Womenswear and menswear fabric and colour forecast: instead of easy solutions and uniformity, people have a growing interest in combining enchantment, excitement and fun with purpose, consciousness and doing good.

Womenswear and menswear fabric and colour forecast: instead of easy solutions and uniformity, people have a growing interest in combining enchantment, excitement and fun with purpose, consciousness and doing good.

Fibres & fabrics: with much production on pause and cracks in the industry being exposed, the discussion of how to create a more ethical and less environmentally damaging model for the industry is more relevant than ever.

 

View Publications
Saxen Weimarlaan 6HS
1075 CA Amsterdam
The Netherlands

Info@view-publications.com

Textile View #130

Textile View #130

RESET, RESTORATION OR REVOLUTION
If you believe all that you read, many things will never be the same again after the coronavirus pandemic. But it’s not the first time that we have stared disaster in the face and expected transformation. As the financial crisis of 2008 showed us, it takes more than hope to change the world. So, it is to be reset or restoration? No one can answer that question, because no one knows what’s going to happen once the coronavirus has subsided – or when or if we will find a vaccine. The best prophet, wrote Thomas Hobbes, is the best guesser. However, one thing is sure: what the consumer is searching for now is security, trustworthiness and clarity.

 

We need to accept that the pandemic and the damage it has done has not necessarily changed the world, rather it has accelerated trends that were already shaping business. When it comes to deglobalisation, companies have been busy lowering their exposure to countries that carry high geopolitical or health risks for some time. We have been talking about data for many years now and it can only encroach further on our lives. In purely business terms, anything that promises to reduce stock and minimise risk has to be a plus. The virus has also opened the door to a robotic army and the post-coronavirus workforce could look quite different. Economic downturns have a habit of spurring automation.

 

And fashion? The sector is expected to contract by 27-30% this year, according to the State of Fashion 2020 Coronavirus Update report by the Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Company. It hasn’t been easy for the fashion industry for some time, but “doing the right thing” was not only the fashion norm of 2019, but also encapsulated much of the industry’s response to the pandemic.

Publisher’s view
By 2022 the world will be fundamentally changed, much the same, or somewhere in between. We think it will probably be much the same but, hopefully, with some significant changes.

Design and lifestyle – touching consumer hearts as well as their minds!
In this era of data, algorithms, bots, and a self-learning internet of everything, where does the boundary between man and machine actually lie? What separates out human intelligence from artificial intelligence?

SEASON IN REVIEW
Autumn/Winter 20/21

Womenswear designer fabrics, silhouettes and styling details
Navigating extremely challenging territory, the best collections showed an assertive show of strength: forceful statements, packed with confidence.

Menswear designer messages
Free expression. The profundity of being male… Is there any such thing as ‘the mainstream man’? We think not. Today and tomorrow is all about blending and nuance.

SEASON IN FOCUS
Spring/Summer 2021

The latest additions to womenswear collections with pointers to A/W 21/22
There are those that say it’s a ‘lost season’ and that retailers will just box current Summer 2020 merchandise until next year. We don’t agree. There will be a season, but the approach will be different with buying done in a more directed, less seasonal way.

Menswear fabric orientations
10 new looks, where a new lightness is key and plains are favoured over elaborate effects to build the basics. Natural, dry and textured eco materials contrast with refined smoothness and ultra-light technical styles.

FORWARD VIEW
Autumn/Winter 20/21

Womenswear fabric and colour forecast
In these uncertain times, creativity will flourish as we become more focused and resourceful. We will be able to rethink all aspects of our profession, taking time to reflect on our world’s magnificently diverse cultures.

Menswear colours, styling and fabrics
A ‘hopepunk’ feeling envelops the season, with positivity being driven by community, creativity and reconsidered consumerism.

Accessories & trimmings forecast and inspirations
Under high protection. A vision of the future that aims to be cerebral and survivalist, where the driving forces are built on a new balance of forms and volumes.

Womenswear knitwear colours, yarns and styling
We gravitate towards things that hold personal or collective meaning, discarding the superficial and short lived and diving deeper for our inspiration.

Menswear knitwear styling concepts
Creatives are confined to their homes with limited access to new inspiration and, with travel this year unlikely, they will search for alternative resources and find their surroundings the catalyst for revitalised creativity.

BRIEFING

Fibres & fabrics
This season’s yarn and fabric fairs were driven by sustainability and eco responsibility, with many yarn and fabric choices taking account of sustainable criteria. Certainly, every fair is giving the issues more space.

City view
With nowhere to travel in light of lockdowns, in place of our regular ‘City View’ feature, we take a look at how industries have adapted and how culture, inspiration and escapism has moved online.

View Publications
Saxen Weimarlaan 6HS
1075 CA Amsterdam
The Netherlands

Info@view-publications.com

Textile View #129

Textile View #129

SPRING 2020: OUR FOOTPRINT

Looking back just 10 years to 2010, it is difficult to understand how we got from there to here. It seems only yesterday that Donald Trump was a reality TV star, Boris Johnson was a jocular mayor, and Facebook was just a way of tracking down old friends, rather than a threat to western liberal democracy. It was a decade of austerity, fracking, populism and fake news. But there were also a lot of lifestyle positives: the plastics backlash, women’s rights, veganism, renewables, mental health, gender fluidity, and last, but definitely not least, women’s football.

And what do we remember in the world of fashion? The death of Alexander McQueen and Lady Gaga’s meat dress in 2010; Kate Middleton’s wedding and her sister Pippa’s derrière launching a thousand bottoms in 2011; Kim Kardashian starting a boom in front-cover pregnancy nudes and maternity wear in 2013; the arrival of the hoodie, a lightning rod for aggro and later for luxury; Kanye’s Yeezy Season 1 show in 2015 launching flesh tones and an era of streetwear that bestrode the rest of the decade; Vetements’ DHL T-shirt, ‘Call me Caitlyn’ and the start of the genderless dressing movement; fashion’s discovery of feminism in 2016, when pink became the colour of the decade, reaching new heights in January 2017 as the pussyhat at Women’s Marches across the world; Serena Williams’s Nike catsuit for her first major grand slam appearance in Paris after having a baby in 2018, the same year that body obsession and fitness, epitomised by the Love Island television series, brought us the gym craze. Then, to end the decade, the industry went through a Damascene conversion where, in the face of ‘woke’ culture and climate change protests, doing good became the hot new thing.

2020 and the decade it ushers in will undoubtedly see the end of one era and the start of another, thanks to the impact of a new generation on fashion and fashion systems, and the inescapable consequences of AI. The industry is already fighting on all fronts. It’s not just a question of rethinking business models in the face of more sustainable and responsible practices, it’s also about decreasing costs but increasing services at the same time. On the one hand, industry is looking to cut costs in stockholding, waste, distribution, speed to market, inventory, order fulfillment and customer acquisition; on the other, consumer expectations are rising in terms of self-realisation, meaningfulness, multi purposes, time and money spent, experience and responsible behaviour.

The Future of Making
Eight themes embracing an attitude shift when it comes to the basic gear we make, sell, buy and wear.

Lifestyle
The jewellery collection by Cecile Feilchenfeldt, who wanted to reinvent jewellery without hooks or any kind of visible opening or closure, elastic jewellery. No right, no wrong; no front nor back!

Womenswear inspirations
Every aspect of the fashion industry needs to act for the future. Our stories look at different attitudes and influences that we feel are central to changes it must make.

Womenswear colours
The colour landscape for 2021 looks different, seeking out a rebalance on one level, whilst also joyfully embracing seemingly disparate elements.

Womenswear key looks
This is a season for contemplation and paying thoughtful attention to design and how it aligns with our responsibilities to sustainability.  

Womenswear fabrics
Advanced ideas continue to emerge around how things are made and how materials are sourced, developed, disposed of or regenerated. It’s a progressive evolution, so don’t expect the big seasonal switches of old.

Womenswear trimmings and accessories
We react to our overload in consumption, invent sustainable solutions and focus on a clean fashion production in a season that is more sensitive, intelligent and inventive than ever before.

Casualwear colours and styling
As dress and gender codes blur, just like the seasons, change is in the air from all directions.

Womenswear and menswear fabric and colour forecast
While designers traditionally rely on intuition and experience for problem solving, we look at computational design, which aims to enhance the process by encoding decisions using a computer language.

Print design forecast
Thoughfulness! There is no way to sneak away from sustainability. Print has to be thought as long living, not a quick ugliness of random patterns thoughtlessly thrown onto cheap fabrics for one season only.

City view
All eyes on Tokyo this summer as the Olympic Games takes over the city. The home of kitsch styling and immersive character experiences, Tokyo presents a unique offering of fashion, retail spaces and food.

View Publications
Saxen Weimarlaan 6HS
1075 CA Amsterdam
The Netherlands

Info@view-publications.com

Textile View #128

Textile View #128

WINTER 2019 CRESCENT MOONLIGHT

Are we living in a post-happiness world? The question is being raised. According to the 2019 World Happiness Report, which ranks 156 countries based on inhabitants’ perceptions of their wellbeing, happiness in the United States is declining. Americans said they were less content in 2018 than a year earlier, ranking at number 19 in the list, behind Australia (11) and Canada (9). The UK comes in at number 15. The 24-hour news cycle, combined with the onslaught of natural disasters, social upheaval, political strife and economic uncertainty is challenging much of the world and psychologists say anxiety is on the rise.

Experts define happiness as a positive state of overall wellbeing combined with a sense that one’s life has meaning. Joy, by contrast, is delight in moments that, by their nature, are fleeting: we don’t need to be happy to feel joy. That could be why consumers are in love with ephemeral events and moments, such as the Hanami cherry blossom viewing festival in Japan or catching a glimpse of the Northern Lights.

Certainly, marketers have caught onto the concept of ‘joy’. It is used to sell boxes at Ikea. It is included in ads for drinks at McDonald’s and as a prescriptive for female hygiene. There are T-shirts that shout joy as an ‘act of resistance’. There is the Chasing Joy podcast. And a number of books are being published this year devoted to joyful living, covering topics such as marriage, productivity, and positive thinking.

Winter 2019
Publisher’s view: as the textile industry fight to clean up its image with the public, we look at how “honesty is the new authenticity”.

Winter 2019
Lifestyle: climate change isn’t an abstract concept; the changing environment will impact every aspect of our lives: what we wear, eat, do and where we live.

Winter 2019
Lace archive: a look at handmade lace, which requires exceptional skill and patience, is the antithesis of contemporary textile production.

Spring/Summer 2020
Womenswear designer colours and colour mixes: reflecting on the past is another key influence for S/S 20 colour trends with designers revisiting the minimalism of the 1990s with a revival of electrifying neons highlighting the calming influence of a simple monochrome palette.

Spring/Summer 2020
Womenswear designer fabrics, silhouettes and styling details: in a time of crisis, and for sure we are in those times, fashion can act as a distraction or can pick up the mantle and become a trailblazer?

Spring/Summer 2021

Womenswear fabric and colour forecast: nature’s beauty and diversity continues to inspire textile designs, through astonishing colour combinations

Spring/Summer 2021
Menswear colours, styling and fabrics: the shift towards more balanced lifestyles, that make time for nature and the great outdoors, inspires an uptake in naturally occurring colourings.   

Spring/Summer 2021
Womenswear knitwear colours, yarns and styling: our heightened sensitivity directs the way, pointing towards knits that are soothing to touch and shapes that are comforting to wear.

Spring/Summer 2021
Menswear knitwear styling concepts: we are inspired by the past in ways we would probably deem romantic and somehow picturesque

Autumn/Winter 21/22
Knitwear forecast: creativity will save us all. Immersive colour, escapist textures and sensory modernity step forward in new A/W 21/22, knitwear looks.     

City view: city of the moment, Toronto

View Publications
Saxen Weimarlaan 6HS
1075 CA Amsterdam
The Netherlands

Info@view-publications.com