View #135

View #135

THE MAINSEASON ISSUE A/W/22/23

A/W 22/23 focuses on a reinvigorated connection to nature, localism, and escapism, with experimental futuristic visions working to support communities and elevate design. Repurposing deadstock and introducing innovative biomaterials and technologies inspired by circular models and eco-systems stimulates radical and impactful change with an open-minded attitude. Hybridised elements of performance and loungewear update casual and athleisure silhouettes, while technical advancements and creative approaches to prints and details mimic the natural and digital worlds.

Collectively, palettes have a strong but soothing undertone, with romanticised earthen tones and strong pastels played off against an all-Important base of neutrals.

ESSENTIALS

The future of making
Hope radiates from different solutions on how to fix fashion’s throwaway culture, hack seasonal cycles and tackle bugs in existing systems, proposed by a range of talented and idiosyncratic designers.

The future of branding
For the past few years retail has been said to be dead, a feeling that only worsened when the pandemic hit and a lot of stores were left with no other choice than to shutter their doors.

The future view
We are in the first chapter of the rise of Generation Z – those born after 1995. Their impact will be swift and profound and the effects will ripple through the workplace, consumption and technology alike. To understand this new generation, we need to appreciate the environment in which they came of age and the forces that shaped their outlook.

FASHION A/W 22/23

Womenswear styling, fabrics, knits and accessories

We have been turned upside-down and we are ready to reveal ourselves anew and reposition those aspects of environmental responsibility, collaboration, and caring at the forefront of our agendas.

Menswear styling, colours, suitings and shirtings

The season merges the traditional with the new as heritage inspired tailoring and classic shirting silhouettes are updated with bio-materials or pre-loved fabrications. Seasons continue to become increasingly blurred as floral references and unseasonal colour accents come through to uplift palettes grounded in neutrals.

CASUAL & ATHLEISURE A/W 22/23

Fabric headlines
From organic cotton to hemp, the denim industry is slowly but surely switching to more sustainable fibres. It is also very much attached to durability, a key facet of low-impact design, and keeping traditions alive with a new take on selvedge.

Casual, athleisure and denim concepts, fabrics and accessories
The synergy between humans and nature is furthered by bio-material advancements that strive to optimise performance and functionality. Understanding natural rhythms and environmental factors generate a renewed appreciation of the natural world.

Forward Matter
As the world moves back to speed mode, contradictory feelings are emerging: we desperately want to enjoy life and freedom once again, but, at the same time, we feel the need to protect and preserve that ‘suspended’ space we experienced during the pandemic. Yet, this uncomfortable duality we are experiencing right now is a new feeling that has the power to become a wake-up call to new activism, unforeseen opportunities and unexpected ideas.

View Publications
Saxen Weimarlaan 6HS
1075 CA Amsterdam
The Netherlands

Info@view-publications.com

View #134

View #134

HOW TO SPEND IT?

Now that we are looking more positively on life after Covid, the big questions in the textile industry are, firstly, whether consumers will ever prioritise fashion in the way they did before coronavirus, and, secondly, what kind of clothes they are going to buy – if and when they do?

The pandemic not only wreaked havoc on the economy, but also created more inequality. For many, it has been a period of intense financial hardship, with furloughs and increased childcare responsibilities. For those people focused on purchasing essential items, new clothes have been a distant dream and fashion an afterthought, or not considered at all.

 

On the other hand, many in salaried positions and in professions such as law, banking, health and counselling were not only able to maintain their status quo but also actually build on savings. During the lockdown, it has been clear that the main groups still happy to buy (mostly online) were professionals such as these, Gen Y (with generous parents) and, of course, the eternally rich.

The general arguments that support a brisk upturn in clothes shopping – though probably not the massive revenge splurge that some dream of – are that the virus is in retreat, vaccination programmes are pushing ahead, many have money in their pockets, consumers are sick of sameness, the weather is turning, and people want to go out, feel good, be seen and socialise. But that still doesn’t tell us what they are going to wear!

According to the CNBC article So Long Sweatpants, published on 5 March 2021, Urban Outfitters reported that women are starting to gravitate back to shopping for dresses. The retailer’s Anthropologie brand stated that in the final week of February, seven of its top 10 items were dresses, while before that, it was unusual to see just one or two dresses make the list.

Some companies, however, still believe the momentum lies with loungewear, athleisure and sporty performance, and we agree! Comfort, always an apparel issue in recent years, became paramount during the pandemic. Once you are used to the ease of soft, stretchy, easy constructions, it’s very hard to give that up. Besides, who said everyone is going back to the office? Most think that companies will start to see the office as a hub and combine that with working from home, encouraging what Nordstrom calls Work-from-Anywhere Style. And, almost certainly, companies will relax dress codes as the workforce returns. One need look no further than the triumph of sneakers over high heels.

Meanwhile, many newspapers have been asking their readers about pandemic dress habits and post-pandemic intentions. At The New York Times, Vanessa Friedman concluded, “I was struck by the fact that instead of buying lots of small things, or fast fashion, most of you [readers] went all-in on just a few things, or just one very special thing”. In the Guardian, Jess Cartner-Morley six key trends for 2021 were: floaty blouses; the grown-up flat shoe; the smart cardigan; the 18-hour dress; the toffee-coloured handbag; and, of course, sweatpants!

What do we think at View? Well, there is no single answer to how everyone is going to dress once lockdown is over. But that’s how it should be since, as we have always argued, there can no longer be a ‘one solution fits all’ in post-pandemic marketing and designing, but only fragmented approaches depending on age, work conditions and lifestyle preferences. One thing is certain, however: the future will be hybrid and blended, and, whether seriously smart, sexy, fun, responsible or regenerated, it will also be comfortable!

01 Essentials
It’s everybody’s favourite guessing game: what will happen next when the Covid crisis ends? Who will be spending? When will they be spending? Where will they be spending? And, above all, what will they be buying?

The future of making  – after the crisis end

The future of brand directions – the power is in collectives

The future for designers – game changers

02. Contemporary Preview Autumn/Winter 22/23
Designers are being proactive and responsive. Some are speaking out for those who have been forgotten or downtrodden; some are placing their beliefs in a quiet and gentle approach that leads by kindness and integrity; others are angrily fighting and using the fashion platform to raise the tempo; a new swathe is deeply concerned with gender politics and inclusivity; and more and more key people are embracing vital eco issues.

Womenswear preview – back to normal is not an option

Colour messages – wrap-round colour inspired by nature

Fabric messages – transitional directions from summer to winter

Menswear messages  –  the power to move

Menswear preview – moments to dress up

Knitwear preview – creativity and technical prowess

03. Casual & Athleisure Preview Autumn/Winter 22/23

The season draws on a rekindled gratitude for nature, localism, and community. Optimism and joyfulness are a key focus, revitalised through futuristic visions that serve communities, eco-systems, and inner wellbeing. Lasting consumer anxieties are soothed through ideas that focus on comfort, protection, and the romanticism of escapism, whether in nature, or online.

Casual, athleisure and denim preview – rekindled gratitude for nature, localism and community

04. Forward Matter

A problem solving, creative thinking tribe is emerging from the old world. New ideas, new methods, new projects and new collaborations are flourishing, as if the pandemic had accelerated the challenges we are facing and the will to find alternative, interdisciplinary solutions.

Creating change – rewriting our lives

View Publications
Saxen Weimarlaan 6HS
1075 CA Amsterdam
The Netherlands

Info@view-publications.com

Viewpoint Colour #9

Viewpoint Colour #9

THE SPIRIT OF NATURE

We know it’s not the first time we’ve urged you to consider the influence of nature on design. But in the Spirit of Nature edition of Viewpoint Colour, this message is front and centre, as it is now even more timely – and more urgent.

The effects of our long-term betrayal of nature, as we continue to waste resources, pollute the environment, compromise biodiversity, and destroy habitats, were thrown into sharp relief by the Covid-19 pandemic. The virus has been identified as zoonotic – transmitted from animals on whose habitats we have encroached. No one can have escaped awareness of this particular crisis, the most evident and deadly of many caused by our lack of respect for the world around us. It is more than time, almost too late, for us to re-establish our respect for nature, and a rebalanced relationship with the natural world.

Design urgently needs to become a catalyst for lasting, sustainable social and environmental change for good. We need to focus not solely on humankind, but on a biocentric perspective. We need to think less about the here and now, and more about the future: the decades, centuries and generations to come.

Our Spirit of Nature edition offers positive inspiration. We profile a variety of designers who are already drawing on the infinite patterns, diversity, and, of course, colours of nature. And we consider the contributions that both science and the ancient wisdom of Indigenous peoples can make, as we shift towards regeneration and long-term thinking, rather than ephemeral, short-term gains.

Spirit of Nature: The Context

As we radically reconsider our place and our role on Earth, widely practised human-centred design methodologies must now give way to planet-centred design. We need to shift from an anthropocentric design perspective to a biocentric one.

Colour Forecast SS22

Consolidating the core ideas of this issue’s theme – Nature’s Wisdom, Variation, Indigenous Wisdom, Regeneration and Long-Term Thinking – this forecast embraces a re-examination of how we use colour in design.

Constructed Landscapes

Photographer Alexandra Von Fuerst sets out to re-evaluate the connection between humans and the environment in her ongoing project Landscape, Like Photography, is a Modern Ideal.

All Creatures Great and Small

A renewed sense that humans are caretakers of the planet requires us to look at all inhabitants of the natural world through a deeply empathetic and curious lens. We are moving away from speciesism and starting to reject the idea that humans are superior to other species.

Ephemeral Colour

Rooted in nature, yet a forerunner of modern science, alchemy bears the aura of centuries of spirituality and magic. Alchemy turns the ordinary into the extraordinary – the very definition of Anne Eder’s work, Botanical Gothic: Poisons, Ghosts, and Auras, an experimental series of dramatic lumen prints.

Networked Nature

Marshmallow Laser Feast is one of the world’s leading immersive art collectives. Underpinned by science and advanced virtual reality (VR) technology, the studio’s extraordinary experiences invite us to become one with nature, navigating spaces that illuminate the hidden natural forces that surround us.

Faded Glory

Having made the decision not to use any chemicals in the processing of his fabrics, Jiyong Kim started his collection a year early, allowing him to utilise the very slow process of natural fading at the hands of his unlikely collaborators – the sun, the wind, the rain – and, of course, his mother, who oversaw the process in her back garden.

Pantone Colour of the Year
A look at the thinking and meaning behind the choice of Illuminating (yellow) 13-0647 and Ultimate Gray 17-5104 as Panton’e twin choices for Colour of the Year 2021

Expanding Horizons: A Long-Term Design Manifesto

Drawing on the work of Ella Saltmarshe and Beatrice Pembroke, co-founders of the multidisciplinary Long Time Project, this Long-Term Design Manifesto shines the light on five pathways to inspire and foster long-term thinking within creative culture.

View #133

View #133

A NEW VIEW: A BETTER VIEW

We have been writing so much over the last year about change and a new post-covid landscape that we thought we should take a dose of our own medicine. So welcome to the new VIEW!

Transformation in both traditional publishing and orthodox fashion systems was always on the way, but the Covid-19 pandemic has accelerated this. We are now facing a very altered environment and we at VIEW Publications have been busy adapting ourselves to meet the manifold and diverse demands that come with it.

Stepping forward, we have decided to break down old fashion walls and product segmentation by combining the casual and athleisure content base of our old View2 with the modern-classic content of Textile View Magazine. In our newly styled magazine, we will be looking at ways to action and deliver ideas in a genderless, seasonless and trans-generational manner – all connected to the latest developments in responsible and sustainable manufacturing!

Welcome to a new VIEW – forecasting with ethical product solution by experts from across the industry appealing to a wide audience that covers brand strategists, designers, manufacturers, retailers and many others. We hope that you will agree that we have introduced a dynamic, younger approach concerning marketing, progressive manufacturing and responsible fashion, but kept the soul of the old View products – professionally analysed and beautifully presented trends, colours, fabrics and accessories.

01 Essentials

It’s time to venture into the unknown and explore the notion of creativity at its core. Changing the system means going beyond our established norms and merely switching up the way garments look or feel each season. Instead, it’s time to take a step back and assess each garment as a product of its origins.

The future of making – pushing for future-proof performance textiles

The future of business directions – cultivating community

The future of branding – reconnecting with nature

The future for designers – biodesign

02 Contemporary  Spring/Summer 2022

We see a friendly, interactive approach emerging: true collaboration where reciprocity is valued and warm hearted results emerge from these creative kinships. It’s a time to re-evaluate old hierarchies and move towards inclusivity with renewed passion and purpose.

Fabric Headlines – marketing and development news in fabrics and fibres

Womenswear – styling, fabrics, knits and accessories for Spring/Summer 2022

Menswear – styling, colours, suitings and shirtings for Spring/Summer 2022

03 Casual & Athleisure Spring/Summer 2022

With nature and future proofing at the forefront of consumer’s minds, product lifecycles are being put under the microscope. Forward-thinking brands are focusing on reducing material waste, creating methods of reutilising production waste or creating products derived from natural resources, which will biodegrade within a matter of days or weeks. Consumers are questioning societal norms and taking product lifecycles into their own hands, as evidenced by the continued growth in second-hand sales

Fabric Headlines – marketing and development news in fabrics and fibres

Casual, athelisure and denim concepts – fabrics and accessories for Spring/Summer 2022

04 Forward Matter
Creatives are questioning the way forward as well as debating their powers and how to use them to send positive messages and create change. A disruptive community is pointing the way by transforming extreme challenges into creative proposals and smart solutions for a more caring and respectful society. Time is running out; the new world is already here and the mainstream, orthodox system needs to keep up with this new language.

View Publications
Saxen Weimarlaan 6HS
1075 CA Amsterdam
The Netherlands

Info@view-publications.com

Viewpoint Colour #8

Viewpoint Colour #8

NEW HORIZONS

  • After a time of deep uncertainty, we are seeing an emerging desire for resurgence, growth and positivity.

  • In this issue we explore a new world order, where the authentic is celebrated through the breaking down of traditional rules and the creation of new values.

  • In this new world order there are no constraints, and fluidity underpins this emerging vision – high tech meets low tech, the old is combined with the new, boundaries are blurred…

  • Colour becomes paramount in defining new identities and shaping these positive visions of the future. We see individuals and creatives expressing themselves in ways which have never been done before through digital environments, new beauty standards, dynamic creative processes and fantastical representations of the self.

  • Whilst there is a clear turn towards the digital and virtual world, there is also a renewed desire for tactile and material experiences.

DEMATERIALISED COLOUR

What if clothes could exist beyond the physical, just like thoughts? Not requiring a single piece of fabric and free even from the pull of gravity, the digital fashion world seems to be unexplored and full of creative potential.

Key Colour Statements
Shapes by contradictory influences, the colour and design landscape has an exciting hybridised aesthetic that marries opposing ideas: reflection and action, individuality and collaboration, virtual and real. We are realising the need for a longer-term colour application that is enduring and timeless, while also recognising that shorter-term directional colour has a clear role to play in creating fresh new statements and personal expression.

Brutalist Beauty
Featuring work from ‘instagram’s most hated beauty account’ by Eszter Magyar. Exploring new beauty standards which challenge traditional perceptions of beauty through the unconventional use of colour, texture and materiality. 

Electric Nature
Andres Reisinger’s beautifully rendered images of natural landscapes which feel both otherworldly and approachable. Through these visuals, Reisinger breaks with the harsh and bold aesthetics that often characterise digital renders. 

Guerrilla Dyeing
Working with natural dyes in a way which feels fresh, rebellious and new, Audrey Louis Reynolds steers away from the aesthetics we would traditionally associate with natural dyes and pigments. 

Off Colour
A series of visual portraits that showcase Tomihiro Kono’s original take on wig making. The wigs are characterised by the use of ‘off colours’ – a celebration of unconventional pastels challenging typical wig colours. 

Clay Play
A compilation of clay maquettes presented for Eny Lee Parker’s clay play contest. High-end interiors made from playdough; high-tech meets low-tech; and a celebration of colours through making.

Beneath the Surface
Photographer Pim Top overlays digital textures and images to produce visuals which challenge slick digital aesthetics and colours.

Colour Futures
Inspiration from the work of the renowned artist Samara Scott Textural with exploratory manifestations of colour, where materiality is key.