Textile View2 is a sister publication to the hugely successful Textile View Magazine. It is dedicated to the world of casual, sports and jeanswear for men’s, women’s and kidswear. View2 delivers practical and inspirational information to truly help manufacturers and retailers design, make and sell urban sports products that the market really wants. Its team of contributors all come from the industry itself with experience ranging from the latest fabric developments, through design and development, to marketing and sales. In its form, quality and level of information, View2 mirrors its sister publication with features dedicated to city updates, lifestyle, express, current and future fashion directions.
VIEW 2 #17
Welcome to our new issue of View2. We are feeling a real buzz of excitement about what lies ahead – it’s like a rush of adrenalin spurring us on to challenge the norm, make a statement and take a chance. From the trade shows we have visited, to the collections we have seen on the catwalks, to the mood in the market and on the street, it’s all about unleashing, experimenting and, above all, having fun in the seasons ahead.
In the new season’s trend directions, it’s all about creating new talking points by embracing contrasts and contradictions throughout your collections, by using colour palettes that surprise and challenge traditional ideas of what a seasonal palette should be, by being experimental with garment proportions (from wide cuts, to unexpected trims, to gender diversity in fits) and by creating fresh hybrids of historically unrelated styles of silhouette. Our Summer 2016 Casualwear Forecast even goes so far as to introduce a trend called Reverse Planet, which is about playing with the concept of everything in reverse and presenting the unexpected, but in predictable forms.
In fabric developments we are seeing huge advancements that push fabrics into areas we would have never thought possible. Of course, technology plays a huge role here. In denim, the recent advances in laser finishing mean the most authentic looking rip, tear and vintage wash-effect can now be achieved. We see knitted denim that looks woven and woven denim that looks knitted challenging our perceptions, and with it bringing the possibility of creating much more sporty and active styles than ever before. There is abrasion resistant denim, denim that uses a fibre developed original for NASA to regulate body temperature and even denim that claims to have an anti-cellulite effect on the wearer!
In April this year, the New York and Sydney based company, Wearable Experiments (We:eX), launched the ‘Alert Shirt’. In conjunction with Foxtel, the Australian television company, football fans sitting at home on their sofas wearing one of these shirts were able to feel what the players were experiencing live as it happened during the game. Sounds complicated, because it is, but, basically, data taken from a player’s actions during the game (a tackle, scoring a goal etc.) is transmitted via a Bluetooth smartphone app to electronics within the jersey shirt that convert the data into powerful sensations that the wearer feels within milliseconds of the action taking place. A great example of how technology is allowing us to literally unleash.
But, this unleashing malarkey is not just about creating fresh noise and drama and it’s definitely not about carelessly throwing stuff out there. It’s about bold, considered expressions and trying to unlock new potential in what you already know. There is so much information at our fingertips nowadays with fresh ideas and solutions seemingly only a click away. So let’s not forget that sometimes all that needs to be done is to spend a moment in quiet contemplation sucking up the energy from what surrounds you already, in preparation for unleashing whatever it is that comes next!
Have fun this season!
VIEW2 #17 – Content
London/ Paris/ Tokyo/ New York/ Amsterdam
Our trend watchers get out and about in some of our favourite cities to bring you a snapshot of the hottest looks being worn on the streets. From American sportswear influences on the streets of London and Tokyo to an urban, playful nonchalance seen on the Soho streets of New York.
London/ Paris/ Tokyo/ New York/ Zurich
Our Hot Retail section highlights a select few of the freshest new shops to visit when travelling the globe (or webshops to surf to when browsing online). Be prepared for some visual merchandising inspiration, assortment information and credit card stimulation!
When it comes to menswear this season, there is a lot less looking backwards for inspiration than usual, which offers a real chance to take more risks. Scary as this may sound, it’s actually very exciting because the outcome is still about creating very commercial men’s styles.
DENIM MOST WANTED
The launch of a new season is always exciting, but this season our visit to Denim by Première Vision felt different and that wasn’t just down to the new location. Both at Denim by PV and at the new Amsterdam-based Kingpins show, we discovered the fresh spirit of a new generation which seems committed to creating collections in a new way, focusing on the best materials, improved design and minimum ecological impact.
TRADE SHOW VIEW
There was an upbeat mood felt at the Berlin shows in some part created by the excitement surrounding the World Cup and the spectacular Rio inspired BBB concept; but it was also reflected within the products on display. So, feel the love this spring/summer and be prepared to go large, loud or back to blue!
Winter 15/16 sees an array of warm and rich colour. Strong shades are imbued with a high level of saturation. Colour feels weighty and strong. An exception to this is a group of pastels and coloured pales… a family, which is surprising and challenging to traditional ideas of what a winter range should comprise of. Elsewhere, the colour palettes explore ideas of modern rusticism and we see a nostalgic streak to some colours.
Weavers, not just in Europe but on a global basis, are moving heaven and earth to create structures, compositions and fabric looks that have never been seen before. Despite economic conditions that remain difficult, no matter what the politicians say, companies – even those that never tried before – are investing their all in innovation.
This season our trim direction focuses on individuality and authenticity – the interplay between unique imagination, casual tradition and modern technology. The search for something exclusive, surprising and something that shows an appreciation for heritage, is reshaping the borders in the world of sports and casualwear.
WOMEN’S TREND DIRECTION
A season of contrasts and contradictions awaits us. A focus on tonal dressing is amplified by organically inspired print directions, which subtly play with colour levels and largely focus on texture over form. This textural play is seen throughout the season, both through print and, more importantly, fabrication.
WOMEN’S KEY ITEMS & DETAILS
This season sees a continuation of the more relaxed approach to silhouettes that we highlighted for Summer 2015. Volume appears through oversized cuts as well as hem shaping and pleating and is emphasised with big pile or rigid fabrics. However, a real sense of femininity still prevails. Textural panelling and architectural cut-lines are key.
MEN’S TREND DIRECTION
Two key elements define this new season: technology and comfort. Combining the unexpected, whether through fabric choice or through style detailing, is touched upon by each of this season’s core themes.
MEN’S KEY ITEMS & DETAILS
It’s a season for playing with proportions and creating fresh hybrids of historically unrelated styles of silhouette, for making bold statements both graphically as well as texturally, and for adding in sporty details across product categories. It’s as if every style we know and love just needs a little something new and exciting to propel it forward (just a bit!) – even if it’s just the way you style one item above another to create a whole new proportional look.
ACCESSORIES TREND DIRECTION 174
Touch and textural manipulation become focal points this season, with stark modern forms opening the season and transitioning into heavily textured and detailed pieces for deep winter. A childlike, fun start to the season ages and grows more sophisticated with the addition of mature, clean tones and new structures and forms.
FOOTWEAR TREND DIRECTION 180
Regular readers will notice that our trend stories are largely the same as those we presented for summer. This is because the long-term developments behind trends do not change very rapidly. Looking at trends in this way will help companies build a consistent image throughout different seasons and regions, which is especially helpful for brands that are sold globally.
SUMMER 2016 and +
Casualwear continues to be influenced by activewear and the growing importance of technical fabrications. Colour and colour use is also effected by sport style, but the shades used are toned down and fresher. On the whole, colour is becoming muted, duller and slightly neutralised. Patterns are blurrier, less figurative and more textural in appearance.
Embracing both the shock of the new and the spirit of the old, spring moves through summer in a series of unravelling layers to reveal a cultured, yet relaxed athleticism.
Alongside multiple mediums spanning decades of development, sportswear’s mix-and-match aesthetic sees a similar eclecticism in its use of materials and colour. Outfits that are playfully realised nevertheless receive serious attention to detail.