TEXTILE VIEW #115

AUTUMN 2016: FIRE
Tides of change
There is growing sense of rebellion. Social media and online facades are being debunked by Millennial insta-celebs and savvy brands are opting for unfiltered, real, warts-and-all marketing campaigns. As a conscious generation comes of age, the focus of social media is shifting from personal gain to social good, with communities and campaigners using the internet as a tool for positive change.
Among a growing number of Millennials, we are seeing a shift in values and a desire for realness and non-conformity. Due to their rejection of “good taste”, we are going to see the rise of a new set of brands that are not afraid to alienate and challenge, do not conform, and set out to disrupt the status quo. Being different, being real and having an opinion seems to be the way ahead and that will certainly affect how fashion works.
We can already see this happening in the way fabrics, colours and styling are evolving for A/W 17/18. In our Womenswear Inspirations, we comment on how the dismantling of established frameworks creates space for alternative thinking: “Designers are greeting this opportunity with daring enthusiasm. The predictable notions of cut, shape, and fabric choice are being tested, along with the larger issues of gender and family, of place and belonging. It’s all up for grabs and the bold are embracing the challenge, moving and exploring these uncharted worlds. Turbulence shifts the landscape and where it will settle is not yet clear – but we are beginning to see the emergence of a brand new picture.”
 
BRIEFING
Publisher’s View: Quo vadis?
Never has the fashion business been at such a crossroads, wherever you look, from the way we approach trends to the purpose of exhibitions and the very future of catwalk shows. It all adds up to exciting times. But, faced with economic uncertainty, in a world increasingly influenced by Millennials and Generation Z, the industry needs answers – and quickly.
Fibres & fabrics: Natural & precious
A/W 17/18 knitwear looks set to be warm, but very light and soft, with fine yarns in the finest raw materials, made with technical brilliance. But there were also more really big yarns than ever, some huge as if looking through a magnifying glass, but always light as if blown with air.
 
 
AUTUMN/WINTER 16/17
Haute Couture: A global perspective
It may be a far cry from the hallowed couture ateliers but the times they are a-changing and this season the Chambre Syndicale gave couture a global perspective, extending the schedule and opening the doors to an international roster of designers.
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SPRING/SUMMER 2017
Menswear r-t-w designers: In & Out
Menswear feels strong and self-assured. For now, sales are up and growing, Creativity is bold and thrilling, but the formula of the twice-yearly shows routinely held in the same cities excites no one.
 
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AUTUMN/WINTER 17/18
 
Womenswear inspirations: Face on
In a time of upheaval seemingly coming from all sides, political, structural and economic, there is an atmosphere of revolution in the air. The dismantling of established frameworks creates space for alternative thinking and the appetite for change is palpable. Designers are greeting this opportunity with daring enthusiasm
 
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Womenswear colours: Alliances
In a time of disorder and confusion it becomes necessary to extract order from the turmoil and look quietly at the simplicity of pure colour. Our colour selection for this winter season remains bound to the materials that inspire us; their surfaces draw us in and charm us.
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Womenswear styling: Fashion shifts
A new freedom emerges when definitions and established systems are challenged. This rebellion is taking shape in new and experimental design ideas, which defy notions of gender, age, market category and season.
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Womenswear fabrics: Shock of the new
Innovation continues at a pace, but it is not so much the fabrics per se that stand out, rather the way they are pieced together in the final garment.
 
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Womenswear trimmings and accessories
The season of hope is here, just when we need it! Designers fluctuate between the opportunities of the future, the hard lessons of today’s reality and the wonderful treasures of the past.
 
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Casualwear colours and styling: Hybrids
We see a new approach to lifestyle, identity and fashion. Rules are broken and boundaries blurred, as people break free of traditional ways of thinking.
 
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Menswear colours, styling and fabrics: All in the detail
This A/W 17/18 season is all about the detail. A maximalist approach is applied throughout, with a clear focus on textural fabric interest and hand finishing that leaves few surfaces appearing flat. Even in the cleaner themes, we see a concentration on texture, all be it more uniform in nature.
 
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SPRING/SUMMER 2018
 
Women’s and menswear fabric forecast: Fit for purpose
Studying the latest graduate and designer collections, the word uniform buzzes. There has never been so much fusing, hybridization and collaging; but there also seems to be a growing need for a new set of rules for fashion.
 
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Print design forecast: Uniformity
There is a trend for ‘belonging’, belonging to, a nation, a region, a religion, a village, a football team, a brotherhood, a language or political group, a gang or band, rebels and revolutionaries. We express it through our clothes.
 
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Showcase: The game changers
Designers are setting new paradigms that work for them, as technology and ever-changing communication mean that archaic operational modes need to go and the industry needs to metamorphose for the future.
 
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