Textile View #108
Textile View carries in each issue over 300 pages of quality information well presented to help companies identify markets and build their fashion collections. We have a world-wide reputation for accurate and commercial fashion prediction. Our readership goes from top-end r-t-w designer names to volume distribution at High Street level. Our target is the yarn or fabric selector/buyer and the garment/knitwear stylist and manufacturer plus major retail distributors involved in their own private-label production. Textile View is widely regarded as the ‘bible’ of the industry.
TEXTILE VIEW MAGAZINE No 108
WINTER 2014 BLANCHE-NEIGE
Menaissance: redefining masculinity
From the increasing decibels of Chime for Change, led by Frida Giannini, Beyoncé Knowles-Carter and Salma Hayek Pinault, to Emma Watson’s ‘Gender equality is your issue too’ speech at the UN, and from the ‘feminist demonstration’ finale at Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel S/S 15 catwalk show, to the rush by politicians to wear the Fawcett Society’s ‘This is what a feminist looks like’ T-shirt: feminism’s popular-culture profile has never been so high.
So much so, in fact, that it’s currently easy for men to feel somewhat overshadowed, defensive or even threatened – a position they have frequently been in before in recent years in the Western world, as their faults, foibles and failings continue to be built up, or so it seems, into a major indictment against them.
But that, of course, is not the whole story. Men are doing very well, thank you. Yet it’s not that certain things aren’t changing, Let’s start by reviewing some old arguments. Evolutionary psychologists have long claimed that men and women are instilled with behavioural imperatives from a distant past: men are faster and stronger, and hardwired to fight for scarce resources; women are more nurturing and compliant, perfectly suited for raising children and creating harmony.
In a Time magazine article, ‘It’s a Man’s World, and it Always Will Be’, Camille Paglia recently wrote: “History must be seen clearly and fairly: obstructive traditions arose not from men’s hatred or enslavement of women but from the natural division of labour that developed over thousands of years during the agrarian period and that once immensely benefited and protected women, permitting them to remain at the hearth to care for helpless infants and children. Over the past century however, labour-saving appliances, invented by men and spread by capitalism
It is clear now that men no longer want to live as their fathers did, marrying women they can’t talk to, working long hours day after day, and coming home just in time to kiss their children goodnight. Ongoing unemployment and project-based work patterns make them less likely to regard their career or job title as an indicator of status and traditional masculinity. Millennial mindsets are also changing the way men operate. Companies like Kickstarter and Google stand for consensual working and horizontal management – not the traditional male mode of working where a CEO dictates to employees. By taking a flexible approach to identity, today’s men can be anything from nurses to home workers.
TEXTILE VIEW 108 CONTENTS
On the cover:
At first sight, this cover shows snowy mountain scenery, out of which emerges an outline of Snow White. But, could it also be something completely different – a white cloth on which Snow White is embroidering a design in blood red thread?
Womenswear ready-to-wear designers
A new mood is sweeping womenswear, as we see instant runway reporting generating a see-it-now/want-to-wear-it-now appeal. This is driving the seasonality out of fashion – a trend that is impacting not only colour choices but also silhouette and fabric directions. A trend best exemplified at Prada where S/S 15 was presented as tailoring and outerwear in a range of autumnal-hued brocades, heralding a new seasonless approach to dressing.
Womenswear designer fabrics and colours
A richly exotic and glamorous collection of sumptuously decorated cloths: luxurious and alluring. Inspiration has been drawn from antique interiors and precious collections of prized archives: cherished and ornate. Patterns and motifs, both in floral and ornamental arabesque forms, are plucked from many differing eras and reference both East and West.
Womenswear designer silhouettes and styling details
Ultra light fabrics gather and drape, falling into wafting, volumetric pieces. Big on big becomes ultra-feminine in these ethereal weights; this is the home of floor-trailing lengths for summer. Boho-flared maxi dresses, loose smocks blousing over full trousers, all pieces, which move with the body and float in the breeze. 1970s influences in both Hippie and glamorous outcomes.
Menswear designer messages
A new period is emerging in men’s fashion. We talked a lot about ‘the hybrid’ last season and now the ‘middle ground’ has arrived. Looks that are wearer friendly don’t lead to ordinary or average outcomes. This is neither about fantasy nor overt indulgence; it is not about decadence or about looking standard. This new midway point is about fashion reacting and being more relevant to how we are living our lives.
Menswear fabric orientations
Bipolar. This season sees the crowning of the double-faced fabric as king of the fabric hill. A double game, an artful, sometimes tricky collision was being played out. A question of ‘what to do’ presents itself to the designer, and here, in our ‘Orientation’ pages, we develop an idea of opposites that reveals a textile and styling mixology, which combines masculine with feminine looks, luxury with ordinary, rough with smooth, technical with traditional, short over long, and lithe with oversized. Opposites attract!
Womenswear fabric & colour forecast
This will be a season of contrasts whereby figurative and abstract floral patterns will blossom and flourish, while large-scale, vivid stripes in
saturated colours will shock and dominate. Discrete white textiles with subtle textures and intricate structures will create a look of purity and fragility alongside micro-patterns, in shades of blue and white, which will give the season a fresh, clean touch.
Menswear fabric & colour forecast
Decoration is highly diverse ranging from artistically inspired multi-dimensional prints to naturally dry or lustrously finished, fluid fabrications. This surprising breadth of material weights lends itself to new pairings of staple, smart and casual pieces. It is this careful balance of texture and weight that brings about a newly defined, harmonised look in menswear that is neither purely smart nor distinctively casual.
Womenswear knitwear colours, yarns and styling
Every season, fresh yarns appear that yet again push the possibilities of design. The changes may be subtle: a new exquisite touch and delicate blending, or they may have a big visual impact: innovative yarns that perform and react in exciting new ways.
Womenswear knitwear forecast
Design and clever techniques characterise this winter’s knitwear. Ideas materialise into confident forms and textures. Surfaces resist and hold their form, or oppositely, fold and free flow around the body, taking shape in amplified, audacious silhouettes.
Lifestyle: Faith the future
The transition we have been talking about for so long is making significant progress. It is becoming steadily clearer that existing systems (politics, education, health care, employment, retail etc.) are no longer functioning in the way we became accustomed to over the past few decades. And, what is more, the problems cannot be resolved with the mindset that created them!