Textile View #107
Textile View carries in each issue over 300 pages of quality information well presented to help companies identify markets and build their fashion collections. We have a world-wide reputation for accurate and commercial fashion prediction. Our readership goes from top-end r-t-w designer names to volume distribution at High Street level. Our target is the yarn or fabric selector/buyer and the garment/knitwear stylist and manufacturer plus major retail distributors involved in their own private-label production. Textile View is widely regarded as the ‘bible’ of the industry.
Textile View 107
LUXURY: HOW EXPENSIVE IS EXPENSIVE?
In the last issue of Textile View Magazine, we referred to an article written by Hadley Freeman for The Guardian newspaper in April. In it, she wrote, “Yes, designer goods have gone up an insane amount of late. According to a recent Wall Street Journal report, Chanel bags have gone up by 70% in the past five years, Jimmy Choo shoes have gone from $495 to $650 in the same time. It has now got to the point where I am genuinely amazed if I see a designer handbag in a magazine that has less than a four-figure price.”
Regular upper market, but not luxury brands add a margin of 2.4-3.00% to merchandise and regulate that mark-up through the whole retail chain. The ‘Vogue’ sisterhood and brotherhood regularly charge 14 times the making cost (it’s all those glossy adverts in all those equally glossy magazines that end-up in hairdressers and dentist waiting rooms). But now, conventions are being broken. Luxury prices are sky-rocketing. Why?
Getting away with it!
The first reason is that luxury brands are discovering new markets where status doesn’t have a price limit. 10 years ago, their fortunes rested on aspirational, middle-class buyers from Europe and America. But, chastised by the Lehman crisis of 2008, they forsook their local markets and old customers for the booming economies of China, Russia, South America and above all the Middle East and the Gulf States.
Another big factor is that all ‘luxury’ brands think they should “be seen to be equal”. Of course, that’s not possible; someone has to be at the top of the tree and, in the luxury world, that’s generally regarded to be Hermes and Chanel. But, what happens is that everyone else who wants to be seen as luxury thinks their prices should be on a par with the leaders in luxury – no matter if the culture, tradition, know-how and experience is not the same.
For the rest of us, the 99-percenters of the Western World, we are a little angry and confused! And we have adopted our shopping patterns accordingly. Consumers who used to buy US$750-1000 dresses from boutique brands now go to Zara for everyday needs and limit ourselves to biannual trips to luxury stores, when it’s sales time.
Sandwiched between four years of recession austerity and brands exclusive to the Super Rich, Mr and Mrs Average have learnt to buy with their heads rather than their hearts. Even though they might love fashion, they are not ready to be ripped-off anymore. If the price is too high, they turn and go.
TEXTILE VIEW 107 CONTENTS
Womenswear haute couture
A change of pace in the rarefied world of couture this season as designers edged away from the glamour of red carpet Hollywood and reached out to the new global couture customers of Russia, China, Asia and the Middle East.
Menswear ready-to-wear designers
Paraphrasing James Brown to describe the “re-invention” of Menswear feels like the right thing to do: firstly, because of the bigger productions and theatrical set-ups of the shows themselves; and then the fashion itself!
Womenswear colours, styling and fabrics
The key to the season lies not in colour nor in fabric, but in attitude. Winter 15/16 is about breaking out, forgetting all that we have learnt and followed for years in textiles and trying the new and unexpected. Move away from discretion and tasteful conformity, instead, take concepts to their limits.
Womenwear trimmings and accessories
Delusion and reality, the love of free spirited innovations and the capture of long cherished fashion heritage. Designers let their thoughts drift towards undiscovered corners of their imagination. They merge their outstanding creativity with intelligent design tricks, respect for fashion heritage and a strong interest in new manufacturing technology.
Casualwear colours and styling
Yin and yang, hot and cold, X and Y… they say opposites attract, and, this season, it’s the message of the moment. Whether it’s about colour, silhouette, fabric and texture or simply the vibe of what’s going on in the world, extremes and opposites are important messages for casualwear’s new mood.
Menswear colours, styling and fabrics
Winter 15/16 is a season based on two components – colour and structure. By colour, we do not mean shade only, but also how it is applied and how it interacts with surface texture and cloth composition. By structure, we mean the new interest in three-dimensional effects apparent in all levels of fabrication as manufacturers search out alternatives to stripes and checks.
Colour andf fabric directions from all the up and coming shows – Munich Fabric Start, Milano Unica, Première Vision, Modamont, Le Cuir. Get busy with an exciting season.
Womens- and menswear fabric and colour forecast
S/S 2016 fashion textiles are about basic pleasures – as found in nature, sports and the arts – translated into materials that deliver familiar as well as instant entertainment.
Print design forecast
Now just imagine! The human is extinct, and another terrestrial intelligence or even extra terrestrial species comes along and finds fragments of our existence. How would and could this culture piece together the puzzle of humanity?