VIEW2 #19

EDITORS VIEW 
COEXISTENCE
Fast and slow are two opposites that right now are turning what we know about the fashion industry upside down. We see slow fashion working in parallel with fast fashion in a way that has never happened before. It’s a very interesting coexistence because, thinking about it, slow has been the catalyst to fast, but it is also the consequence of it.
It is the long term, carefully and slowly developed technologies that have created our fast pace world. Fast is all around us – we carry it with us, we suffer information overload, we’re teched up to the max! Etailers now make fast fashion retailers look slow, with daily deliveries of new product. Bloggers and vloggers command the front rows of fashion shows, instantly posting views on the latest collections and designers now stream their shows live with immediate possibilities to purchase online.
A great example of a product channeled to help this fast pace reality is Spritz (spritzinc.com), a piece of software that allows for you to read up to three times faster than normal by showing just one word at a time positioned in such a way that your eyes don’t need to move across a page – great for smaller devices and, of course, speeding up your world even more! Honda used it to great effect in their recent “Keep Up” ad campaign – the video is definitely worth checking out if you haven’t seen it.
So, is it any wonder that the trend at the moment is ‘no trend’? Instead, the movement is to slow down and focus on creating a strong brand ID – to refine and (re)define. Buyers are still cautious in a turbulent market place and sticking to what they know. Brands are moving a style forward by upgrading to a higher performance fabric or a more refined fit, but very rarely both at the same time.
What’s more, the increasing need for transparency in brands and a more ethical and sustainable business model is another huge consideration right now. Companies like FashionRevolution.org are on a mission to make consumers question, “Who made my clothes?” and brands need to slow down to react to it. Recently they placed a vending machine in Alexanderplatz in Berlin selling €2 T-shirts and when a potential purchaser put in the money, the machine showed a video of the person who made the T-shirt, summing up their pay/working/living conditions and then asked if the buyer still wanted the T-shirt or would now rather donate the €2 towards bettering working conditions. The majority of would-be buyers donated!
There is the need to reach out and speak to customers and offer them something special like Carlsberg’s billboard at the Truman Brewery on Brick Lane in London last April that featured an actual beer tap embedded beneath the slogan, “Probably the best poster in the world”, so anyone passing by could pour themselves a cold beer for free. A publicity stunt, yes, but also a good way to slow down and get in touch with their consumers and another great example of the coexistence of fast and slow coming into play.
In response to the constant stream of technology and our seeming inability to disconnect (according to a recent study, The On Demand Economy By the Numbers, 70% of Americans now own smart phones and the average person checks their phone every six minutes, about 150 times a day), there is a new range of services and experiences being developed to help us consciously unplug and slow down – such as Yondr a mobile phone case that can be programmed to automatically lock the phone when entering certain places.
The development of laser technology in denim has allowed for vintage wash effects to be achieved in a much more environmentally friendly way (with faster production times and greatly reduced water consumption). But, the results off the production line are a rack of identical jeans and when it comes to vintage, it is unique characteristics that make denim special. So slow, hand crafted scraping and scuffs are being added to ‘authenticate’ the final appearance. This is where technology and the craftsman combine.
There is no shortage of examples of how wearable tech is already impacting the apparel, accessory and footwear industry. From adidas’ Ultra Boost running shoe that enhances the user’s performance by giving them “energy return” via energy capsules situated in the sole that provide 20% more return in energy to the runner, to the announcement in June of Levi’s partnership with Google ATAP on Project Jacquard – a fabric with digital connectivity that will enable the control of phone features through the surface of a garment. So, in the future, wearers will be able to silence a phone call by touching their jeans or add a song to their playlist by touching their jacket. The aim is for the wearer to have more hands-off device time so they can enjoy face-to-face time instead.
There is, of course, the fear that if you think too far ahead, trying to be fast on your feet and ahead of the game, that you might actually get left behind – the sad demise of the trade show Bread and Butter is a good example of this. So the key, nowadays, is to find a way for the two to coexist for your brand. And rest assured that there are still the developers working in the background to create the new bit of kit that will either speed us up further or slow us down somehow in the days, months or years ahead.
 
View2 #19 
WINTER 15/16
 
Street Style 
London/ Paris/ Tokyo/ New York/ Berlin
Our trend watchers get out and about in some of our favourite cities to bring you a snapshot of the hottest looks being worn on the streets.
1) STREET STYLE
 
Hot Retail
London/ Tokyo/ New York/ Paris
Our Hot Retail section highlights a select few of the freshest new shops to visit when travelling the globe.
 
2) HOT RETAIL
 
SUMMER 2016
Men’s Designers   
Much of the buzz generated by this season’s catwalk shows revolved around the many gender-neutral looks on show. However the other directions we highlight prove that this is a season where activewear plays a leading role, references from the past are replayed at a fresh tempo and surface diversity is key. Graphically, this is a season to make a real statement.
3) MW DESIGNERS
 
Denim Most Wanted         
At the latest Denim by PV show in Barcelona, the key trends we found being worn around the show highlight a real attention to decorative detailing and personal craftsmanship. These guys had been spending time on creating individual statements that played much more with patchwork, cutting and recolouring than before.
4) DENIM MOST WANTED
 
Trade Fair View
The trade shows in Berlin felt delightfully fresh with a vast selection of soft pastels and nudes, sheer fabrics and shiny metallic surfaces. Minimalism, with its clean lines and purity overtook last year’s brashness and futuristic forms presented interesting angular shapes. Fun, bold graphics, peasant worker styling and a retro feeling were also on display.
 
5) Trade Fair
 
WINTER 16/17
Colour Direction     
There is a real warmth to Winter 16/17, and a sense of colours infused with character. Three of our palettes have a focused message concerning a particular hue, and two palettes contain more mixed and scattered personalities. Many shades have a certain level of saturation that acts as a robust scaffold for this sense of character. Others are tinted pales, devised to be used in conjunction with these stronger colours. It’s interesting to see these two personalities combine, as ethereal shades meet assertive brights.
 
6) COLOUR DIR
 
Fabric & Trim Direction
Cross-overs are something we have been talking about for seasons. But, for Winter 16/17, the concept reaches new heights. This is not just a question of the blurring of end-use and a consequence of the boom in ‘athleisure’ wear. It is a consequence of genuine consumer demand for function with style and continued innovation in fabric design and technology.
 
7) FABRIC & TRIM DIR
 
Women’s Trend Direction & Key Items
Breaking away from the consistency of previous seasons, this autumn/winter we see themes detach and move away from the understated lines seen of late, exploring diverse decorations and exaggerated proportions. Texture is paramount, palettes explore both richly diverse tonalities and openly graphic combinations and typically fluid shapes of the bohemian look are contrasted against more structured and faceted silhouettes
 
8) WW TREND DIR
 
Men’s Trend Direction & Key Items
Our menswear trends are defined by a new season that is pushing modernity to the limits and is inspired by fast-evolving technology. Where there is any retrospection, it is revised and updated. Military futurism, concealment and protection are key aspects to our stories, perhaps reflecting deeper concerns about perennial global and local geopolitical issues, in a time when details of unrest or disease in the remotest parts of the planet can be metaphorically viral within hours.
9) MW TREND DIR
 
Accessories Direction
This season not only explores the origins of some familiar looks and techniques, but begins to play with perceptions of what is past and what is very much current. Rules begin to be broken, as we see modernist Scandinavian-inspired dress combined with medieval accessories, or Victorian-inspired silhouettes reworked with eastern-inspired decorative techniques. We also discover how to make the all-important seventies look hot for one more season.
10) Accessories
 
Footwear Direction           
When it comes to our trend stories, we are still finding that the dynamics of modern life are leading people to search for the proverbial emergency exit, or to seek a better life. Some see technology as the door to solutions, while others seek refuge in nature, or in escape to imaginary worlds. While this may sound dystopian, hope glimmers through all the trends, thanks to the belief that we can change matters – with the help either of new technology or of age-old ingenuity.
 
11) FOOTWEAR
 
SUMMER 2017
Casualwear Forecast       
Currently fashion and wearable technology are two separate areas of design, but we are predicting the demand for a greater synergy between the two areas as the technologies themselves become more discreet, cheaper and useful to a broader cross-section of consumers.
 
12) CASUALWEAR
 
Sportswear Forecast       
Stylistic cues for coming seasons ensure that ethics remain a fundamental cornerstone of the industry rather than a faddish concern. They also reflect a discernible abandonment of traditional form and function tropes, instead playing up the need to enliven and to experiment with the unmined, the unforeseen and the downright uncanny.
 
13) Sportswear
 

 

View2 #18

Textile View2 is a sister publication to the hugely successful Textile View Magazine. It is dedicated to the world of casual, sports and jeanswear for men’s, women’s and kidswear. View2 delivers practical and inspirational information to truly help manufacturers and retailers design, make and sell urban sports products that the market really wants. Its team of contributors all come from the industry itself with experience ranging from the latest fabric developments, through design and development, to marketing and sales. In its form, quality and level of information, View2 mirrors its sister publication with features dedicated to city updates, lifestyle, express, current and future fashion directions.
THE NEW DIY
Welcome to our new issue of View2. As you have no doubt already spotted, we have had a bit of a facelift to iron out any wrinkles that may have gathered with age and inject some fresh energy into our pages. But, there is no change in the scale and scope of information we provide and we hope you like the new look.
This issue we are focussing on DIY, but this is not DIY in the way we all know it, i.e. you buy a kit of something with all the pieces provided, you follow instructions, you build it and hopefully you end up with something that vaguely resembles the picture on the box. We are talking about a modern approach to DIY that allows for customisation and personalization. Where a product is delivered almost complete – the groundwork and hard/skilled work has been done, but there is scope for the consumer to create something exclusive and original. It’s kind of a partial bespoke service: We design it – you finish it off.
An example of a product that sums this up is any one of the stylish mask designs from Wintercroft Masks. For a small fee (around £4.50) you can download a mask template that is easily printable on A4 or US letter paper along with easy instructions on how to create the mask. Then, it is up to you to decorate and personalise to your own taste. The key thing here is that the products are very cool and all you need is a printer, pen, ruler, glue, old cardboard (such as a cereal box) and imagination.
It’s not the old approach to DIY where in magazine terms we would deliver a partially designed cover that looks incomplete along with a set of pens to allow you to finish it off. But instead deliver a partially designed cover (or, in our case, our season introduction graphics) that still look great visually and that you can add to and complete how you wish, using what you have at hand – whether it be a BIC biro, a highlighter pen or some ripped up, post-it notes. In so doing, you can take ownership of the magazine and really make it your own.
Another way of looking at it is how in the past, sneakers have been delivered with two or three different kinds of laces so you can change the final outlook of what you wear–to a point! Now this would be sneakers delivered with a link to a website or info about a free app that is full of ideas on how to create laces out of recycled elastic bands, old ribbons, cables or whatever, or even find a way to do without laces altogether – to inspire but not dictate the end result.
A buzzword of the moment is ‘Normcore’ (Wiki def: “a unisex fashion trend characterised by unpretentious, average-looking clothing”) – you will read it many times throughout this issue as it appears in many of our forecasts as a key direction for future seasons. It may seem a contradiction to the idea of this new DIY approach, but actually, by giving the consumer the opportunity to personalise their product, it completely respects the ‘Normcore’ attitude, because it allows for the personalisation to be as loud or quiet and as detailed or simplistic as the consumer wants.
At the last edition of Denim by PV in Barcelona, we saw many people proudly sporting the jeans they had designed as well as ones they had customised using any number of materials – from hand-sewn-on large scale gemstones, to glossy car paint dip-dyed hems, to bold marker pen artworks and huge scale rips. There seems to be a pronounced need to be able to say, “This was made by me!” Maybe ‘Made By Me’ (MBM) is the new DIY?
So, be inspired to let go just a little this season and feel free to make things truly your own. Our seasonal graphics are ready and waiting for you to give them your personal touch…
You can download them using the link below and when you are done creating send them in to us at view2@view-publications.com and you never know, they could appear in the next issue!
 
ALL 4 IMAGES 720 PX WIDE
 
Adobe_PDF_icon
Click here to download | highres_images_view2-18.zip  | 42mb
 
View2 #18 – Content
 
SUMMER 2015
Street Style 
London/ Paris/ Tokyo/ New York/ Los Angeles
Our trend watchers get out and about in some of our favourite cities to bring you a snapshot of the hottest looks being worn on the streets.
 
STREET-STYLE
 
Hot Retail                 
London/ Tokyo/ New York/ Paris/ Hong Kong
Our Hot Retail section highlights a select few of the freshest new shops to visit when travelling the globe.
 HOT-RETAIL
 
 
WINTER 15/16
Men’s Designers
We find many of the key looks from last season appearing again on the catwalks of London and Milan, i.e. luxe joggers, retro reworks, boiler-suits and denim to name a few. However, this does not make it a dull season; there is real progress and interest in colour, garment detail and graphics.
 
MW-DESIGNERS
 
Denim Most Wanted
At the latest Denim by PV show in Barcelona, we experienced a “new kind of new” in what the visitors were wearing – these industry professionals who live and breathe the indigo cloth seem to be getting inspiration right now by really rethinking the perception of premium denim and just what it means… and that is inspiring!
 DENIM-MOST-WANTED
 
 
SUMMER 2016
Colour Direction     
We are moving beyond colour into a more tactile era of coloured texture. Touch is as important as sight. When we design product we should be asking ourselves not just how it looks, but how it feels.
 
5COLOUR DIR
 
Fabric & Trim Direction
The whole feeling of S/S 16 is softer, slower and more relaxed than in previous seasons. This is achieved through the use of very traditional fibres such as linen and hemp working alongside cotton or the uptake of lyocell to give qualities a softer, more sensual feel.
FABRIC-&-TRIM-DIR
 
Women’s Trend Direction & Key Items
Sport-inspired modernity is a consistent theme this season, with technically advanced fabrics and sporty styling used to update and refresh summer silhouettes. It is a season to make bold statements in colour, texture and fabric. Silhouettes, for the most part, are simple, understandable and very commercial. Even when they derive from a masculine heritage they retain a feminine aesthetic through colour, fabrication and fit.
 
7WW TREND DIR
 
 
Men’s Trend Direction & Key Items
This season’s trends seem to reflect a growing maturity in menswear – although some might interpret this as a lack of confidence – which arrives off the back of last summer’s shockwave of colour and clashing digital pattern. Sports and dynamic modernity evolve further as a key force behind style constraint and simplicity, with slim and skinny specifically remaining key trends.
 
 
8MW TRENDS
 
Accessories Direction
The 2016 summer season draws inspiration from the everyday and converts it into the unusual and the unexpected. References are drawn from plants, religious buildings and, most normcore of all, human flesh.
 
ACCESSORIES-DIR
 
 
Footwear Direction           
Problems are piling up on Earth, but aerospace technology is making big leaps forward, so it seems we are mentally getting ready to vacate our planet. Perhaps there is a better future for the human race in outer space. All our footwear trend stories address this thought in one way or another, whether it is from a realistic or an imaginary angle.
 
FOOTWEAR-TREND-DIR
 
 
WINTER 16/17
 
Casualwear Forecast       
For our AW16/17 forecast we’ve based all the seasonal statements around different ways of playing with the concept of normcore. That doesn’t mean there won’t be other stories going on, but for now we are paring down detail, subduing the colour and reconsidering the norm.
 
1)-CASUALWEAR-FORECAST
 
 
Sportswear Forecast       
Material is at the core of this season’s mix of technically enhanced styles and nature inspired tactility – where a multi-media sensory approach parallels the evolutionary developments seen globally in both product and environmental design.
 
SPORTSWEAR-FORECAST
 

 

View2 #17

Textile View2 is a sister publication to the hugely successful Textile View Magazine. It is dedicated to the world of casual, sports and jeanswear for men’s, women’s and kidswear. View2 delivers practical and inspirational information to truly help manufacturers and retailers design, make and sell urban sports products that the market really wants. Its team of contributors all come from the industry itself with experience ranging from the latest fabric developments, through design and development, to marketing and sales. In its form, quality and level of information, View2 mirrors its sister publication with features dedicated to city updates, lifestyle, express, current and future fashion directions.
VIEW 2 #17
UNLEASHED!
 Welcome to our new issue of View2. We are feeling a real buzz of excitement about what lies ahead – it’s like a rush of adrenalin spurring us on to challenge the norm, make a statement and take a chance. From the trade shows we have visited, to the collections we have seen on the catwalks, to the mood in the market and on the street, it’s all about unleashing, experimenting and, above all, having fun in the seasons ahead.
In the new season’s trend directions, it’s all about creating new talking points by embracing contrasts and contradictions throughout your collections, by using colour palettes that surprise and challenge traditional ideas of what a seasonal palette should be, by being experimental with garment proportions (from wide cuts, to unexpected trims, to gender diversity in fits) and by creating fresh hybrids of historically unrelated styles of silhouette. Our Summer 2016 Casualwear Forecast even goes so far as to introduce a trend called Reverse Planet, which is about playing with the concept of everything in reverse and presenting the unexpected, but in predictable forms.
In fabric developments we are seeing huge advancements that push fabrics into areas we would have never thought possible. Of course, technology plays a huge role here. In denim, the recent advances in laser finishing mean the most authentic looking rip, tear and vintage wash-effect can now be achieved. We see knitted denim that looks woven and woven denim that looks knitted challenging our perceptions, and with it bringing the possibility of creating much more sporty and active styles than ever before. There is abrasion resistant denim, denim that uses a fibre developed original for NASA to regulate body temperature and even denim that claims to have an anti-cellulite effect on the wearer!
In April this year, the New York and Sydney based company, Wearable Experiments (We:eX), launched the ‘Alert Shirt’. In conjunction with Foxtel, the Australian television company, football fans sitting at home on their sofas wearing one of these shirts were able to feel what the players were experiencing live as it happened during the game. Sounds complicated, because it is, but, basically, data taken from a player’s actions during the game (a tackle, scoring a goal etc.) is transmitted via a Bluetooth smartphone app to electronics within the jersey shirt that convert the data into powerful sensations that the wearer feels within milliseconds of the action taking place. A great example of how technology is allowing us to literally unleash.
(wearableexperiments.com)
But, this unleashing malarkey is not just about creating fresh noise and drama and it’s definitely not about carelessly throwing stuff out there. It’s about bold, considered expressions and trying to unlock new potential in what you already know. There is so much information at our fingertips nowadays with fresh ideas and solutions seemingly only a click away. So let’s not forget that sometimes all that needs to be done is to spend a moment in quiet contemplation sucking up the energy from what surrounds you already, in preparation for unleashing whatever it is that comes next!
 
Have fun this season!
 
 
VIEW2 #17 – Content
 
WINTER 14/15
 
STREET STYLE
London/ Paris/ Tokyo/ New York/ Amsterdam
AW14-STREET-STYLE
Our trend watchers get out and about in some of our favourite cities to bring you a snapshot of the hottest looks being worn on the streets. From American sportswear influences on the streets of London and Tokyo to an urban, playful nonchalance seen on the Soho streets of New York.
 
HOT RETAIL
London/ Paris/ Tokyo/ New York/ Zurich
HOT-RETAIL-5
Our Hot Retail section highlights a select few of the freshest new shops to visit when travelling the globe (or webshops to surf to when browsing online). Be prepared for some visual merchandising inspiration, assortment information and credit card stimulation!
 
SUMMER 2015
MEN’S DESIGNERS
MENS-DESIGNERS-1
When it comes to menswear this season, there is a lot less looking backwards for inspiration than usual, which offers a real chance to take more risks. Scary as this may sound, it’s actually very exciting because the outcome is still about creating very commercial men’s styles.
 
DENIM MOST WANTED
SS15-DENIM-MOST-WANTED
The launch of a new season is always exciting, but this season our visit to Denim by Première Vision felt different and that wasn’t just down to the new location. Both at Denim by PV and at the new Amsterdam-based Kingpins show, we discovered the fresh spirit of a new generation which seems committed to creating collections in a new way, focusing on the best materials, improved design and minimum ecological impact.
 
TRADE SHOW VIEW
SS15-TRADE-FAIR-VIEW
There was an upbeat mood felt at the Berlin shows in some part created by the excitement surrounding the World Cup and the spectacular Rio inspired BBB concept; but it was also reflected within the products on display. So, feel the love this spring/summer and be prepared to go large, loud or back to blue!
 
WINTER 15/16
COLOUR DIRECTION       
COLOUR-1       
Winter 15/16 sees an array of warm and rich colour. Strong shades are imbued with a high level of saturation. Colour feels weighty and strong. An exception to this is a group of pastels and coloured pales… a family, which is surprising and challenging to traditional ideas of what a winter range should comprise of. Elsewhere, the colour palettes explore ideas of modern rusticism and we see a nostalgic streak to some colours.
 
FABRIC DIRECTION
FABRIC-DIRECTION-6
Weavers, not just in Europe but on a global basis, are moving heaven and earth to create structures, compositions and fabric looks that have never been seen before. Despite economic conditions that remain difficult, no matter what the politicians say, companies – even those that never tried before ­– are investing their all in innovation.
 
TRIM DIRECTION
This season our trim direction focuses on individuality and authenticity – the interplay between unique imagination, casual tradition and modern technology. The search for something exclusive, surprising and something that shows an appreciation for heritage, is reshaping the borders in the world of sports and casualwear.
 
WOMEN’S TREND DIRECTION
AW15-WW-TRENDS
A season of contrasts and contradictions awaits us. A focus on tonal dressing is amplified by organically inspired print directions, which subtly play with colour levels and largely focus on texture over form. This textural play is seen throughout the season, both through print and, more importantly, fabrication.
 
WOMEN’S KEY ITEMS & DETAILS
 
This season sees a continuation of the more relaxed approach to silhouettes that we highlighted for Summer 2015. Volume appears through oversized cuts as well as hem shaping and pleating and is emphasised with big pile or rigid fabrics. However, a real sense of femininity still prevails. Textural panelling and architectural cut-lines are key.
 
MEN’S TREND DIRECTION
man
Two key elements define this new season: technology and comfort. Combining the unexpected, whether through fabric choice or through style detailing, is touched upon by each of this season’s core themes.
MEN’S KEY ITEMS & DETAILS
It’s a season for playing with proportions and creating fresh hybrids of historically unrelated styles of silhouette, for making bold statements both graphically as well as texturally, and for adding in sporty details across product categories. It’s as if every style we know and love just needs a little something new and exciting to propel it forward (just a bit!) – even if it’s just the way you style one item above another to create a whole new proportional look.
ACCESSORIES TREND DIRECTION      174
 
ACCESSORIES-TREND-DIRECTION-3
Touch and textural manipulation become focal points this season, with stark modern forms opening the season and transitioning into heavily textured and detailed pieces for deep winter. A childlike, fun start to the season ages and grows more sophisticated with the addition of mature, clean tones and new structures and forms.
FOOTWEAR TREND DIRECTION                      180
 FOOTWEAR-TREND-DIRECTION-3
Regular readers will notice that our trend stories are largely the same as those we presented for summer. This is because the long-term developments behind trends do not change very rapidly. Looking at trends in this way will help companies build a consistent image throughout different seasons and regions, which is especially helpful for brands that are sold globally.
SUMMER 2016 and +
CASUALWEAR FORECAST
SS16-CASUALWEAR-FORECAST
Casualwear continues to be influenced by activewear and the growing importance of technical fabrications. Colour and colour use is also effected by sport style, but the shades used are toned down and fresher. On the whole, colour is becoming muted, duller and slightly neutralised. Patterns are blurrier, less figurative and more textural in appearance.
SPORTSWEAR FORECAST
SPORTSWEAR-FORECAST-6
Embracing both the shock of the new and the spirit of the old, spring moves through summer in a series of unravelling layers to reveal a cultured, yet relaxed athleticism.
Alongside multiple mediums spanning decades of development, sportswear’s mix-and-match aesthetic sees a similar eclecticism in its use of materials and colour. Outfits that are playfully realised nevertheless receive serious attention to detail.