Textile View #129

Textile View #129

SPRING 2020: OUR FOOTPRINT

Looking back just 10 years to 2010, it is difficult to understand how we got from there to here. It seems only yesterday that Donald Trump was a reality TV star, Boris Johnson was a jocular mayor, and Facebook was just a way of tracking down old friends, rather than a threat to western liberal democracy. It was a decade of austerity, fracking, populism and fake news. But there were also a lot of lifestyle positives: the plastics backlash, women’s rights, veganism, renewables, mental health, gender fluidity, and last, but definitely not least, women’s football.

And what do we remember in the world of fashion? The death of Alexander McQueen and Lady Gaga’s meat dress in 2010; Kate Middleton’s wedding and her sister Pippa’s derrière launching a thousand bottoms in 2011; Kim Kardashian starting a boom in front-cover pregnancy nudes and maternity wear in 2013; the arrival of the hoodie, a lightning rod for aggro and later for luxury; Kanye’s Yeezy Season 1 show in 2015 launching flesh tones and an era of streetwear that bestrode the rest of the decade; Vetements’ DHL T-shirt, ‘Call me Caitlyn’ and the start of the genderless dressing movement; fashion’s discovery of feminism in 2016, when pink became the colour of the decade, reaching new heights in January 2017 as the pussyhat at Women’s Marches across the world; Serena Williams’s Nike catsuit for her first major grand slam appearance in Paris after having a baby in 2018, the same year that body obsession and fitness, epitomised by the Love Island television series, brought us the gym craze. Then, to end the decade, the industry went through a Damascene conversion where, in the face of ‘woke’ culture and climate change protests, doing good became the hot new thing.

2020 and the decade it ushers in will undoubtedly see the end of one era and the start of another, thanks to the impact of a new generation on fashion and fashion systems, and the inescapable consequences of AI. The industry is already fighting on all fronts. It’s not just a question of rethinking business models in the face of more sustainable and responsible practices, it’s also about decreasing costs but increasing services at the same time. On the one hand, industry is looking to cut costs in stockholding, waste, distribution, speed to market, inventory, order fulfillment and customer acquisition; on the other, consumer expectations are rising in terms of self-realisation, meaningfulness, multi purposes, time and money spent, experience and responsible behaviour.

The Future of Making
Eight themes embracing an attitude shift when it comes to the basic gear we make, sell, buy and wear.

Lifestyle
The jewellery collection by Cecile Feilchenfeldt, who wanted to reinvent jewellery without hooks or any kind of visible opening or closure, elastic jewellery. No right, no wrong; no front nor back!

Womenswear inspirations
Every aspect of the fashion industry needs to act for the future. Our stories look at different attitudes and influences that we feel are central to changes it must make.

Womenswear colours
The colour landscape for 2021 looks different, seeking out a rebalance on one level, whilst also joyfully embracing seemingly disparate elements.

Womenswear key looks
This is a season for contemplation and paying thoughtful attention to design and how it aligns with our responsibilities to sustainability.  

Womenswear fabrics
Advanced ideas continue to emerge around how things are made and how materials are sourced, developed, disposed of or regenerated. It’s a progressive evolution, so don’t expect the big seasonal switches of old.

Womenswear trimmings and accessories
We react to our overload in consumption, invent sustainable solutions and focus on a clean fashion production in a season that is more sensitive, intelligent and inventive than ever before.

Casualwear colours and styling
As dress and gender codes blur, just like the seasons, change is in the air from all directions.

Womenswear and menswear fabric and colour forecast
While designers traditionally rely on intuition and experience for problem solving, we look at computational design, which aims to enhance the process by encoding decisions using a computer language.

Print design forecast
Thoughfulness! There is no way to sneak away from sustainability. Print has to be thought as long living, not a quick ugliness of random patterns thoughtlessly thrown onto cheap fabrics for one season only.

City view
All eyes on Tokyo this summer as the Olympic Games takes over the city. The home of kitsch styling and immersive character experiences, Tokyo presents a unique offering of fashion, retail spaces and food.

View Publications
Saxen Weimarlaan 6HS
1075 CA Amsterdam
The Netherlands

Info@view-publications.com

Textile View #128

Textile View #128

WINTER 2019 CRESCENT MOONLIGHT

Are we living in a post-happiness world? The question is being raised. According to the 2019 World Happiness Report, which ranks 156 countries based on inhabitants’ perceptions of their wellbeing, happiness in the United States is declining. Americans said they were less content in 2018 than a year earlier, ranking at number 19 in the list, behind Australia (11) and Canada (9). The UK comes in at number 15. The 24-hour news cycle, combined with the onslaught of natural disasters, social upheaval, political strife and economic uncertainty is challenging much of the world and psychologists say anxiety is on the rise.

Experts define happiness as a positive state of overall wellbeing combined with a sense that one’s life has meaning. Joy, by contrast, is delight in moments that, by their nature, are fleeting: we don’t need to be happy to feel joy. That could be why consumers are in love with ephemeral events and moments, such as the Hanami cherry blossom viewing festival in Japan or catching a glimpse of the Northern Lights.

Certainly, marketers have caught onto the concept of ‘joy’. It is used to sell boxes at Ikea. It is included in ads for drinks at McDonald’s and as a prescriptive for female hygiene. There are T-shirts that shout joy as an ‘act of resistance’. There is the Chasing Joy podcast. And a number of books are being published this year devoted to joyful living, covering topics such as marriage, productivity, and positive thinking.

Winter 2019
Publisher’s view: as the textile industry fight to clean up its image with the public, we look at how “honesty is the new authenticity”.

Winter 2019
Lifestyle: climate change isn’t an abstract concept; the changing environment will impact every aspect of our lives: what we wear, eat, do and where we live.

Winter 2019
Lace archive: a look at handmade lace, which requires exceptional skill and patience, is the antithesis of contemporary textile production.

Spring/Summer 2020
Womenswear designer colours and colour mixes: reflecting on the past is another key influence for S/S 20 colour trends with designers revisiting the minimalism of the 1990s with a revival of electrifying neons highlighting the calming influence of a simple monochrome palette.

Spring/Summer 2020
Womenswear designer fabrics, silhouettes and styling details: in a time of crisis, and for sure we are in those times, fashion can act as a distraction or can pick up the mantle and become a trailblazer?

Spring/Summer 2021

Womenswear fabric and colour forecast: nature’s beauty and diversity continues to inspire textile designs, through astonishing colour combinations

Spring/Summer 2021
Menswear colours, styling and fabrics: the shift towards more balanced lifestyles, that make time for nature and the great outdoors, inspires an uptake in naturally occurring colourings.   

Spring/Summer 2021
Womenswear knitwear colours, yarns and styling: our heightened sensitivity directs the way, pointing towards knits that are soothing to touch and shapes that are comforting to wear.

Spring/Summer 2021
Menswear knitwear styling concepts: we are inspired by the past in ways we would probably deem romantic and somehow picturesque

Autumn/Winter 21/22
Knitwear forecast: creativity will save us all. Immersive colour, escapist textures and sensory modernity step forward in new A/W 21/22, knitwear looks.     

City view: city of the moment, Toronto

View Publications
Saxen Weimarlaan 6HS
1075 CA Amsterdam
The Netherlands

Info@view-publications.com

Textile View #127

Textile View #127

A season through the lens of sustainability

It is impossible to analyse trend directions for the upcoming season without filtering them through the lens of climate change issues and the urgent need to take action within our industry. Designers are taking up the mantle and grasping opportunities to inspire positive change. We are seeing a surge in material developments that offer both high- and low-tech solutions to reducing waste and creating low polluting textile alternatives.

One solution explores natural and unrefined selections, eliminating contaminating processes in fabrics and colours that need little or no environmentally detrimental interventions. Another approach captures possibilities within bio- science leading to technically fascinating outcomes in colours that shift and glow or ultra- lightweights in layers of intriguing translucency.

Recycling and re-purposing continues to be a powerful driver with composites and random multi-mixes of colour, material and global influences coming together in bright happy unions.

Finally, in the effort to move far from disposable cheap consumerism, we see a focus on the special; elite product that is beautifully crafted, precious and made to be cherished. Colour in this area is dark and rich with a layer of glassy translucency or metallic coating on top.

Publisher’s view

The textile industry is facing its gravest crisis in decades, in terms of both image and sales. Sustainability and digitalisation are the panaceas that everyone is turning to. But will they work and are they enough?

The Future of Making

Six themes that will shape future fashion thinking. Diversity is key, aS we dive deep into innovations that stand for more than the matter they are made of.

Lifestyle

Artificial intelligence can be used to create human-like intelligence, but it could also be used as something more spiritual, enriching and truly helpful.

MW messages S/S 2020

Men are embracing a new sensuality, liberating them from old associations of toughness and aggression. Strength is shown through sensitivity and shared purpose

Womenswear colours  A/W 20/21

We begin our experiment with colours this season by considering them in their purity, free from any association with form, leaving us open to explore the dynamics between shades.

Womenswear key looks A/W 20/21

Wrapped up, protective and sheltered; raw, fleecy, brushed, hairy and unravelling pieces are fashioned into unstructured shapes built up layer-on-layer.

Womenswear trimmings and accessories A/W 20/21

Fashion stories adopt the movement of multi-faceted empowerment amongst women in a wide variety of strong statements and layered messages.

Casualwear colours and styling A/W 20/21

From authentic and ethically sourced fabrics and products, re-cycled and re-worked designs, technical innovation to handcrafted, bespoke looks and styling, there’s a new kind of hybridity permeating the market.

Menswear orientations the final directions A/W 20/21

There are two pathways this season: one is the safety route, where neutrals in modest monochromes and classic patterns prevail; the second narrative is all colour and warmth with reds and ochres leading the way.

Print design forecast S/S 2021

We have even more passion now for our gardens and living in green, so we should let nature dictate the colours in co-creation of relaxed prints that seem as if the plants have simply put themselves there.

View Publications
Saxen Weimarlaan 6HS
1075 CA Amsterdam
The Netherlands

Info@view-publications.com

Textile View #126

Textile View #126

TO HOLD & TO KEEP

We have already talked about the return of the 1960s mini and the Mary Quant exhibition at the V&A London. Vintage is in vogue – literally so, since UK Vogue asked in its May issue: “Does your dress look vintage?”. Kim Kardashian wore second-hand Azzedine Alaïa to the Paris fashion week, while pre-natal Meghan, Duchess of Sussex, wore 1960s Dior to a christening. High street stores H&M, Arket and &Other Stories have announced they would trial vintage and second-hand clothes sales on their websites. High-end boutique Browns has also just launched the label One Vintage, which uses antique textiles to create new garments. Farfetch is launching a new pilot program, Second Life, that will allow customers to trade in their old designer handbags.

Young designers continue to mine nostalgia as a source of inspiration, thereby adding credo to wearing second-hand. Vintage also suits current Instagram trends where authenticity and originality are key. After all, when you wear second-hand, the chances of others have the same garment are hugely reduced.

But, of course, it’s not just about looks. Sustainability is the hottest topic in fashion at the moment. A study shows that, last year, 64% of women were willing to buy pre-owned pieces compared with 45% in 2016 – and it is thought that by 2028, 13% of the clothes in women’s wardrobes are likely to be second-hand. Fashion circularity, a new term referring to the recycled life of a garment, is projected to reach $51bn in five years, up from the current $24bn, according to ThredUp’s annual resale report.

Pundits might argues about what actually the difference between second-hand and vintage. For some, vintage means pre-1980s, others more than 20 years old, still others speculate about what will be collectable in 10 years time. There are drawbacks about sizing, holes and moths. Yet, according to the ThredUp 2019 resale report, resale has grown 21 times faster than apparel retail in the past three years. More important, it all reduces waste!

Publisher’s view

Wellbeing is an industry that is growing twice as fast as the global economy. The problem is that it does exactly what fashion used to do, sell you a dream version of you.

Design and lifestyle

There is an increasing awareness of environmental catastrophe and the urgency to prevent it, inspiring designers to rethink the lifecycles of products. Circularity and eradicating plastic remain the centre of attention.

Womenswear designer messages

Gone is the emphasis on athleisure and grungy casualwear and in its place is a renewed respect for beautiful, traditional cloths or conversely technical nylons.

Menswear designer messages

After years of active wear supremacy the word on the street is ‘dress properly’. However, the way in which fabrics are combined presents a fresh and forward facing attitude.  

Womenswear fabrics: the pick of the best

Every season the fabric industry seems to be faced with a new conundrum: speed to market, number of collections per season, 14-day-turnarounds, personalization, upgraded service, smaller orders… The latest mandate is sustainability and recycling.

Menswear fabric orientations

Structurally, flat and smooth contrast with a rustic charm in tailored sets, while bold jersey sports use iconic, emblematic colours that have a new immediacy.

Womenswear fabric and colour forecast

There will be an astonishing variety of textures, colours and patterns in the AW 20/21 textile collections. This will range from the quieter, understated cashmere and wool blends in muted tones to the dramatic, large-scale checks in shades of reds, black and white.

Menswear colours, styling and fabrics

A/W 20/21 brings a season of diverse and surprising colour ranges in menswear. For the most part, there is a distinguished focus on nature, from authentic earthen neutrals to palettes of intense volcanic tones inspired by alien landscapes.

Accessories & trimmings forecast and inspirations

Excessively sensual, apparent fragility, rebelliously glamorous, techno, neither austere nor radical, the feminine revolution is on its way.

Womenswear knitwear colours, yarns and styling

The balance is shifting: a desire to connect with something meaningful alongside the smart use of resources is gradually nudging out the frivolous and trashy

Menswear knitwear styling concepts

We push perceptions to create something familiar but that is actually quite strange after the first glance – the familiarity brings a sense of ease, while the unexpected stimulates. 

Knitwear Forecast Spring/Summer 2021

Designers are researching ways to undo the normal rules of making knitwear. They are either pushing construction to the almost non-existent or developing a more aggressive, sports inspired robustness.

City view

London, New York and city of the moment, Birmingham. Diversity is celebrated within Birmingham and, as one of the most inclusive cities within the UK, there is a strong sense of community here. The city continues to develop itself as a city of culture and a key European retail destination.

View Publications
Saxen Weimarlaan 6HS
1075 CA Amsterdam
The Netherlands

Info@view-publications.com

Textile View #125

Textile View #125

Rent a life
 
Renting clothes is not a new concept: high-priced, designer items worn for a single occasion, such as a wedding, awards ceremony etc, have long been available for hire. Services that cater to high profile careerwear or short term situations like pregnancy also have their raison d’être. But now subscription services, which offer long-term borrowing on everyday items are mushrooming as well. Mall companies and retailers such as Ann Taylor, Express and New York & Company have all launched monthly subscription services with monthly fees ranging from US$50-95 as a complement to their sales model. Meanwhile, Westfield shopping centre in Stratford, east London, launched it first streetwear hire pop- up store last December. But does the rental model really work at mass consumption level.
According to Allied Market Research, the online clothing rental market will only reach US$1.8 billion by 2023 still a minnow compared to the trillion-dollar total fashion retail market. But are the figures right? According to research by Westfield, 7 out of 10 UK shoppers would pay to rent the hottest fashion/Instagram item of the moment. For 33% of them, the appeal lay in saving money, while 1 in 8 were motivated by the desire to shop in a more sustainable way.
And if renting did take off with consumers, it could help medium priced clothing chains fight off a stave of problems from declining traffic through to continuous markdowns and excess inventory. It could even provide a route to finding a new customer base. But then again, ownership is a powerful thing. Perhaps the biggest fashion question of the future will be how to differentiate between designing for renting and designing for keeps.
The Future of Making
From cyclical design to socially aware timeless aesthetics, from grown to engineered scenarios, these six themes are set to make and shape fashion in seasons and years to come.

 

Lifestyle
A softer world by OvN. Take a step back and relax! Be thankful for what you have, connect to the lightness of being, and enjoy life as it is!
Menswear r-t-w designers
It is clear that the future is very much on the designers’ minds – seen either through flashes of the past, techno rave or sci-fi. The season is utopian in colour for many, dystopian in layers of retro-futurism for others.
Womenswear inspirations
Attitude is everything, be it quiet and noiselessly resolute or fierce, provocative and strident. So many things are worth fighting for and our modern woman is determined to stand for all of them.

 

Womenswear key looks
In a cross gender/cross cultural world, casual disorderly clashes are welcomed. We see this code mixing with the drive for regenerating, recycling and a desire for responsible products.
Womenswear fabrics
The initial goal might be to manufacture more quickly, efficiently and sustainably, but we must continue to invest in textile technology to achieve more interesting and desirable product development.
Womenswear trimmings and accessories
From forceful and architectural empowerment to super smooth sensuality and assertive seduction, from the mythical goddesses of ancient times to the pussy power collective of our new modern world: feel free to celebrate female fashion.
Casualwear colours and styling
For S/S 2020, we look into developing consumer lifestyles: what drives their thinking, their choices and their vision of the future.
Menswear colours, styling and fabrics
S/S 2020 presents a season of diverse colour ranges, from dark and moody looks that reflect this uncertain time to fresh, nature inspired harmonies and flamboyant palettes that celebrate optimism and omni-culture.
Women’s and menswear fabric and colour forecast
For A/W 20/21, we present nine fabric inspirations born out of a love for textiles and an eagerness to trigger and inspire desirable garment concepts.
Women’s and menswear fabric and colour forecast
For A/W 20/21, we present nine fabric inspirations born out of a love for textiles and an eagerness to trigger and inspire desirable garment concepts.
Print design forecast
The A/W 20/21 season is about sisterhood, enchantment and magic – celebrating wild women through stories of folklore and colourful ritual.

 

Textile View #124

Textile View #124

ARE WE REALLY CHANGING?

The environmental impact of production and consumption systems is central to any contemporary conversation about fashion and design. After more than 25 years of debate, suspicion and indecision, companies are slowly rising to the challenge of creating sustainable products. The question is: why did it take so long to arrive at this point and can the industry really get it to work right through the textile platform?

 

The reason behind this change of heart lies in the combination of a top-down approach by governments across the world, enforcing an environmental agenda embracing everything from plastic drinking straws to air and water pollution, with a groundswell of public opinion demanding and taking action on everything from fracking to fur. The anvil of consumer pressure is reflected not just in demands for transparency but also in the rise of veganism, company boycotts, interest in ethical indexes and, most significantly, in the past few months, decelerated consumption, the reasons for which go far beyond questions of austerity and economy.

 

And this pressure will only grow as Generation Z joins the ranks of the Millennials in the push for ‘responsible’ living. Their heroes are not high-street multiples or status-laden brands but change leaders such as Stella McCartney, who have placed ‘guilt-free’ principles at the heart of their brands. But, McCartney is not alone. More and more companies are seeing that sustainability and environmental awareness make sense not only morally but also economically. That’s not just because of possible savings in energy, water and processing costs, but also because sustainability is an asset to long-term corporate image and market value.

Lifestyle: principles of progress
 
We live in times of rapid change: this can be at once exhilarating and frightening. Wonderful new things happen, but we also see that resistance against anything new can take on extreme forms.
Dressing the Soul
 
While we seek the new and reject the aging in today’s society, Birgitta de�Vos invites us on an armchair journey embracing aging and discovering ageless beauty with her latest book Dressing the Soul | Ageless Beauty.

 

Womenswear designer colours
 
Designers in all four fashion capitals embracing women and gender-fluidity of every colour, age, size and creed in a celebration of diverse femininity.
Womenswear designer fabrics, silhouettes and styling details
 
A new elegance is emerging on the catwalk: free of restraint, women can show their power without dressing like warriors.

 

The latest additions to womenswear collections with pointers to S/S 2020
 
Textiles is echoing the world in its topsy-turvy rush from confidence and optimism to uncertainty and pessimism. And that’s a shame, because fabric manufacturers continue to be alchemists.
Womenswear fabric and colour forecast
 
Exquisite butterflies with their unusual colourways and striking patterns that adorn their wings are pure inspiration for textile design.

 

Menswear colours, styling and fabrics
 
Dark and moody palettes reflect an anxious age where in the face of ongoing social and political unrest and uncertainty, confrontational angst has become the norm.

 

Accessories & trimmings forecast and inspirations
 
A duality that mirrors slow industry and is manifestly anti-consumerist, a duality that plays between hand-craftsmanship and technical functionality, a game of minimal and abrupt decorative contradictions.
Womenswear knitwear colours, yarns and styling
 
A lightness and buoyancy permeates our thinking for the summer season. We look with fresh eyes at the issues that are fundamental going forward: things that matter to us and indeed the planet.

 

Knitwear yarn, structure and colour forecasts
 
A frazzled fashion for alternative ways to dress plays with textures spun out of a gilded sparkle.
 
City view: London, Paris, NY and Seattle