COLOUR PLANNER 38 FOR SUMMER 2018
In Greek and Roman mythology the word “muse”, referred to the nine goddesses, daughters of Zeus, the supreme deity of the ancient Greeks and Mnemosyne, the ancient Greek goddess of memory. These nine goddesses presided over the Arts and Sciences, two areas that are today developing hand in hand at an incredibly rapid pace. Because of this, we feel that they are the perfect inspiration for Spring/Summer 2018. Right now, we are experiencing a moment of acceleration in our desire to merge science and art. By doing this, we uncover new approaches and ideas, not just in colour, but also in form, material and shape.
Our palettes are designed to encourage adventure without the fear of losing touch, about exploration of the new without losing sight of the known – which is crucial when dealing with commercial product. Our new palettes are diverse, rather than limited and all-embracing, because we live in a post-trend world of multiple ideas and cult items.
Last season, we explained how different brands are now using our palettes as a starting point to create and merchandise a more unique approach to colour that can be tailored to their very own customers. We continue to develop this approach for Spring/Summer 2018 as brands grow in confidence to do what is right for them rather than follow the mainstream.
COLOUR PLANNER 38: MUSE CONTENTS
The enlightenment palette includes inexpressive shades floating, flying, hovering to find a direction, a muse. The two neutrals – white and warm grey – are sprinkled with a layer of wind-whipped blue and glacier green.
This palette is based on four reassuring hues of ligneous browns. Wood has been used by men for tens of thousands of years as the basic source material and the colours of wood are part of our evolution.
Four grounded shades, rooted in nature, are the foundation of our story – green, blue and brown. Trustworthy khaki and cool slate act as well loved base colours, from which olive and lichen spring forth.
Fragrant and restful colours: a creamy pink sits with a passionate coral, rich warm brown and a gentle aromatic cumin. These serene tones are perfect for creating tranquil groupings that are also decoratively rich and layered.
Four heavily pigmented, opaque colours convey a strong commercial statement about the solidity and essential confidence you get from a good, mid-toned summer selection.
A range with a touch of core yellow in every hue: from the new yellowish greens to the more acidic shades, yellow initiates every tint here.
White is the start point for this group and is a key summer colour, particularly when offset with other high energy brights. The pinks continue to be important.
Bridging our way from S/S 2018 towards A/W 18/19, we introduce a quartet of transitional colours – four strong and atmospheric blues, each bearing a contrasting character, but that work as a family.
Another transitional range where four soft, warm and cold tones carry forward our winter dark narrative from last season, but are dusted and greyed into a softer expression for the transition into summer.
GENERAL INTRODUCTION TO A RE-STYLED COLOUR PLANNER
Welcome to our new version of the PANTONEVIEW Colour Planner. With colour becoming more lifestyle in nature, we wanted to make it easier for you to use our colour trend stories across multiple product categories and merchandising
We have grouped our major colour messages for A/W 17/18 under a common title, Disguise, which we feel suits the current lifestyle zeitgeist in the marketplace.
The process of colouring fulfils our fundamental desire for change. We apply colour to our walls, the floors we walk on, the face we see in the mirror each day, the car we drive. We clothe ourselves in different colours for different occasions. Colour is at the heart of what we do, and our need to disguise and transform appearance. We have said before that colour goes hand in hand with texture, and the focus this season on materiality remains unbroken. This season, however, we are also interested in materials that emit and reflect light; we explore embellished finishes and perfect smooth, shining surfaces. We see how transparency reveals and alters colour, and how thick cocooning materials muffle shape and change its meaning.
We begin with three lofty neutrals anchored by a warm grey. Their neutrality is the key to their flexibility – they are designed to mix easily with each other and also with more saturated colour.
Next season, pink evolves into a series of paler, more fragile shades to express a transparent nudity. Beiges, off white and blues are all subtly influenced by pink, while pink mauves are the new baby pink.
We reflect our concern with the health of planet earth in a key palette based on nature such as brown, ochre, and grey mud, together with the colours of its vegetable root products such as carrot orange.
Compelling and essential winter hues, these deep and rich colours are all about texture and surface. It’s a group that works well together or, as each colour has such a strong identity, thrives as single statements.
This is a palette of iconographic colours, flags to remind us where we are from and where we are going. But aristocratic and classic though they are, they can still be radicalised by new harmonies to represent and celebrate diversity in all its forms!
A group of modulating mid-tones that form an unexpected union: they create a modern ambiance and act as unusual winter anchors in a wide range of materials. Wilder, brighter, high-energy colours should with them.
A story of iconic reds that vibrate from a hot scarlet, through pink, to a deep lacquer red and a soft coral creating a forceful, confident energy. It’s a range of colours that transitions between grandiose display and concealed masquerade.
This is new cool, iconic greyed but strong turquoise camaïeux story. It amplifies a layered, altered look from a cold pale mist to a deep resinous green. It is an important monochrome to nuance or animate the season in equal measure.
SPRING/SUMMER 2017: EVOLVE
We are constantly evolving. The way we work, shop, date each other, communicate. Even the way we read a book has evolved dramatically over the past few years. Sometimes, we learn from the past to forge a new future: sometimes, we turn our backs on history to cut a different path. We evolve our ideas, our dress codes. Our lives are in a constant state of change. The planet we inhabit is in a perpetual state of revision.
THE COLOUR STORIES EVOLVE
There is no right or single clear-cut colour direction for the season – a state that exactly reflects what is evolving in fashion and branding, as we move into a post-trend era where companies prefer to promote a personal philosophy that binds their customers more closely to them rather than generic trends.
This means that our range of colours is very diverse, pointing to a season based on assembling colour stories rather than making single colour statements. Just like Lego bricks, our choice of colours is there to be constructed into any shape you want. It’s a perfect solution to this increasingly fragmented situation that we find ourselves in.
Guidance is still needed, however, and we have supplied this by laying out the correct foundation of shades to work with and build on. They exist as natural controls that respect a diverse view of different tastes. Each colour has a part to play, which is why there is no obvious colour statement per palette. Instead, each palette bridges into the next, via one or two shades creating a colour synergy that flows in waves across the book.
In Genesis, we visualize energy and express it through primary colours like bluette, pink, turquoise, appearing from the depths of the dark, dense blues and blacks that make up the deep universe.
Lights hues mutate through themselves in a non-violent way; these almost impersonal tones, are open to hybridization and chromatic dialogues, which are subtle and sensitive.
Earthy and vital shades share this palette with a generous and lived green, a tonic blue and a humanistic flesh tone. Together, they configure a palette of corporeal and primordial, ultra natural colours.
In this non-place, without limitations, colours touch each other gently: the vibrant blue of the sky meets and blends with the orange reflections of the earth.
Winter purples are transformed through veils of the palest mauve that graduate towards a new identity in a set of full and inky purples, bruised off like a new dark neutral.
A range of blues and greens, that is both fundamental and futuristic. We build new horizons with these crucial and elemental colours: hues that reflect the heavens, the seas and our green earth.
Delicate fragments of pastel families mix and mingle with earthier utilitarian hues of khaki and brown. This is a palette in which materials play a huge part in developing depth, contrast and interest.
The foundation of thIs palette is white in several forms but this is freckled with an anomaly of colour. Sharp brights and a deep black are used sparingly to create unique effects.
An easy-to-use colour forecast card that is economic in cost and economic in time, embracing not just fashion but also cosmetics and industrial design. Colour Planner is segmented according to key colour directives. There is a general introduction to each directive outlining the colours involved and the philosophy behind them.
These pages are followed by a more specific breakdown covering harmonies and materials according to end-use. Following these key colour directives, there comes the ‘basics’ section breaking down the essential, commercial colours of the new season again by end-use.
Colours are dyed and coded according to the Pantone® colour system.
“No man has the right to dictate what other men should perceive, create or produce, but all should be encouraged to reveal themselves, their perceptions and emotions, and to build confidence in the creative spirit.”
For A/W 16/17, we present a strong narrative exploring “real” and “unreal” colour. What is natural, what is artificial? When is colour absent and when is it present? And, in between, we build a third platform of colour, a “mixology” that connects, bridges and hybridises this “absence” and “presence” of colour.
We begin our three stories with a clear absence of colour, a fleeting glimpse of ethereal hues that move together collectively and create an ambience. Then our palettes become more connected to colour and we see harmonious tones mutated, mixed and interjected with contrasting brights. Finally, at the end of the book, we see present and assertive colour: stronger, saturated tones that jostle for attention and really make their mark.
For several seasons, we have said that colour on its own is not enough; it must be inherently linked to texture and effects. This continues into A/W 16/17 but, in a new twist and one very much aligned to our CP 35 title “Reveal”, we would like to add the concept of crystal (ball) gazing and the colour qualities linked to prismatic effects and precious stones. These shades have a jewelled transparency that has a large part to play in our palettes, while the scientific generating of materials that refract and reflect light seems to be more profoundly linked with surface than ever before.
KEY COLOUR DIRECTIONS
Shapes appear in attenuated forms, in light and dark shades. Colours are diluted. Textures reveal greyish hues, melange blues and muffled greens.
Colour announces itself, quietly, gradually. It forms itself into mottled and ghostly hues, or is layered in watery pools to form vague contours and patterns.
Reality becomes a reflection of our colourful dreams. Coloured earth and metallic dust blend together. Turquoise and tinted grey creates a new blended horizon there in front of us.
The hard nudity of an urban cement façade is overgrown by surprise bursts of vegetal colours, featuring a restrained, dry green, blood orange red and pure terracotta.
Mineral greens and clay blues are split open to reveal a vivid malachite and a sulphur yellow. Their brightness is exaggerated and made to look unnatural by the substratum of darkened hues they lie upon.
Colours spring out of a winter prismatic geometry to reveal a modulated range of soft, rich and brighter mid-tones that are adjusted by a warm, copper drift of reflected light.
These intense botanical hues are placed in new, unexpected environments, creating a hyper natural atmosphere. The artificial and otherworldly are blended and mixed with nature’s flora and fauna.
A range of dense tones that are deep and colourful, magnetic and indiscrete. This is a palette that manifests its personality and character without fear or hesitation.
An easy-to-use colour forecast card that is economic in cost and economic in time, embracing not just fashion but also cosmetics and industrial design. Colour Planner is segmented according to key colour directives. There is a general introduction to each directive outlining the colours involved and the philosophy behind them. These pages are followed by a more specific breakdown covering harmonies and materials according to end-use. Following these key colour directives, there comes the ‘basics’ section breaking down the essential, commercial colours of the new season again by end-use. Colours are dyed and coded according to the Pantone® colour system.
EAT SPRING/SUMMER 2016
“There is no sincerer love than the love of food.”
George Bernard Shaw
We are what we eat. Food defines us. It is a global subject that is interpreted in a uniquely personal way. We eat to live, to be sociable; we cook to survive, to show our love and appreciation. We eat to solve emotional problems and to become healthier beings, mentally and physically. Food, more than anything else, has contributed to the change of individual societies and to the integration of different cultures. Through colour, texture, taste and smell, we discover new civilizations. And through colour, texture and taste, we explore Spring/Summer 2016.
S/S 2016 is a colourful season, yet without the same intensity and saturation of previous summers. Instead, there is a feeling of lightness and simplicity to all the palettes. Hues are fresh and lively. Soft harmonies work in colour families and can be graduated in steps… a move on from all the ombré and dip-dye colour we have been seeing recently. However, certain specific stories – like summer darks – feature harder contrasts, such as blues with oranges, or blacks with sharp whites. These colour contradictions work on various levels: complimentary; hot and cold; spicy and fresh; light and dark. There are no hard and fast rules this season.
Right now, we are evolving our understanding of colour. A few seasons ago, we were using colour for colour’s sake and viewed shades without much context. Then we started focusing on how colour is affected by (and is intrinsic to) the material it appears on: surface became very important. Now, we are moving beyond the visual, to see it as part of a total experience. We don’t just look at colour now, we experience and feel colour.
Dusty gold enriches caramel while shifting to dense and creamy beiges. Textile macrobiotics in the sparse weaving of natural fibres, silk, linen, and ramie.
Spring pastels are imbued with artificial fruit notes to bring a technical outlook, while strange, lab-grown florals infuse together to create a fun palette of papery brights.
Classic olive greens are underscored with slate blues and warm greys in a colour group offering an alternative to the traditional, clear spring greens usually seen in summer palettes.
An assembly of summery hues from sun-blessed coppers to vitamin C filled fruits. Pale and delicate greens are as juicy as their orange and amber neighbours.
It’s all about tonalities innate to nature – clean, vital, natural and vibrant shades that are honest and easy. Think verdure greens, purple leaves and papaya tones.
Dense, nutritional and vitaminic reddish tones with roasted and warm honey shades. Berries, red fruits, beetroot, exotic flowers, purple plum and ginger.
Trusted summer basics, lifted with pretty pastel shades – essential classics that are easy and uncomplicated using fundamental ingredients to feed the soul!
Meditative austerity in a new vision of monochromes. Cold greys and neutrals are weighted with coloured blacks, freshened with a shining white.