Textile View #121

PARTICULAR

We have crossed the frontier. 2018 will see major growth in the use of Artificial Intelligence as a tool to re-shape the fashion business with major AI innovations to be expected in predictive forecasting, capacity planning, merchandising, automated production and delivery. However, the possibilities with AI go much further than that as developments move its potential way beyond the mechanical into the creative. For example, Amazon is on the verge of creating the first AI designer, with the development of an algorithm that designs clothes by analysing images, copying popular styles and using them to build completely new designs. Meanwhile, enriched data will allow for new opportunities in customer relationship management, improving customer insights and, last but not least, much more reliable demand projection thereby reducing forecasting errors. Twenty percent of executives who took part in the Business of Fashion-McKinsey Global Fashion Survey believe that the use of AI to reinvent design, merchandising and marketing” will be an important trend. However, there is still a significant number who remain dubious about AI’s lack of flexibility and intuition for it to be a major player in fashion’s deep creative process. This division of thinking is at the forefront of our A/W 19/20 forecasts where we ask the question: Should the fashion industry be led by algorithms?” and make a strong case for accidental fashion. Above all, we look at fabrics as tools serving fashion as a whole, enabling designers as well as users to mash up looks, to create their own interpretation of garments.

City view A/W 17/18
Our city of the moment is Vancouver. This city, associated with an outdoor lifestyle and the launch of athleisure-wear the world over, is undergoing somewhat of a luxury boom.
 
Womenswear inspirations: Spring/Summer 2019
The season sees a strengthening of the movement towards responsible design, marking out a transparent production trail and asking ethical questions along the way.
Womenswear colours: Spring/Summer 2019
Our new summer colours continue to echo the mood of change in fashion and offer a palette that can explore different aesthetics and is adaptable and fluid enough to meet differing needs.
Womenswear Key Looks: Spring/Summer 2019
There remains an atmosphere of change and the fashion industry needs to be watchful of peripheral influences. Our attention for S/S 19 is drawn to both high and low stimuli at opposite ends of the design spectrum.
 
Casualwear colours and styling: Spring/Summer 2019
How do you feel? Really. How do your emotions affect your daily interactions, your choices, your life?
Menswear styling, colours and fabrics: Spring/Summer 2019
We explore themes that range from the melancholy and sensual, the nostalgic and child-like to untold tales found in historic interior references. We end with a vibrant and joyful theme that is indicative of hope.
Womenswear and menswear fabric and colour forecast: Autumn/Winter 19/20
Should the fashion industry be led by algorithms? We make a strong case for accidental design, wherein a designer wishes his or her work to achieve a specific goal, but ends up achieving another.
Print design forecast: Autumn/Winter 19/20
Design is the essence of fashion. Colour is the expression�of Sein”. The capital of beauty should not be scraped o the floor of social media, but wholeheartedly embraced and invested in. Felt, smelt, touched and heard…

 

Knitwear forecast: Autumn/Winter 19/20
Forms follow structures and natural shapes emerge from an interplay of ribs, and multi textured stripings re-delineate classics.

View Two #24

BELONGING
View Two issue 24 analysis the developing big ideas for the SS19 season, building on our forecast laid out in issue 23 to translate these concepts through commercial design capsules across denim, casual, active and performance wear. For SS19, we develop our concepts under the big idea of belonging’. Nostalgia, self-reflection, inclusivity and community are all key themes here. Athleisure remains a growing focus. No longer simply a trend, now a category in its own right, the movement is influencing all areas of the industry: denim manufacturers continue to play with the idea of athleisure crossover collections, while our performance themes explore the idea of gym-to-swim and street-to-sea. As athleisure’s influence becomes greater, this season we have chosen to focus our athleisure chapter on identifying the key crossover statements that bridge casual, active and performance wear. We also look beyond fashion to explore the broader picture, and the emerging market areas attributed to the development of all-encompassing well-being lifestyles. Meanwhile, the continued shift towards transitional dressing is fuelling an incredible surge in fabric innovations that not only focus on enhancing personal comfort, but also claim to offer cosmetic benefits. The athleisure lifestyle revolution can also be largely held accountable for a surge in electro-textile development. Fabric manufacturers have developed fabrics that utilise conductive yarns, and which are able to provide personalised, app-controlled thermoregulation. The idea of wearables that go beyond electronics and our existing perceptions of wearable technology is defnitile a theme we will be talking more about in the future. See you there!
Big Ideas SS19
This season we explore the concept of belonging’, examining the interconnecting themes that surround this idea through key cultural drivers, to build a series of colour palettes and harmonies that epitomise each statement and envelop the season.
Denim SS19
For SS19, the boldly rigid heavy weights presented for AW18 take a back seat, the focus instead turning to surprisingly soft and supple high-stretch fabrics with the look of heavier authentic weights. Authenticity is a key characteristic for the season, with improved comfort and fit.
Casual SS19
The overriding theme of belonging that envelops our Big Ideas manifests itself in casualwear through themes centred around community, self-reflection, nostalgia and youth subculture. The 90s and early 00s are key influential decades for the SS19 season.
Athleisure SS19
Athleisure is no longer just a sportswear category. Fuelled by social media and the trend for aspirational wellbeing, the work-hard, play-hard, look-good ethos is spreading into beauty, travel, work and even sleep.
Active SS19
SS19 is a season of opposites within activewear trends. Themes explore palettes that are fresh, light and delicate, with messages of body positivity and inclusivity, while others showcase a harder, tougher edge focused on mental and physical strength and translated through darker, more intense tones.
Performance
The growing desire for clothing that blurs the lines between the various aspects of our lives continues to fuel collaborations that are bringing a streetwear edge to the performance wear market, with Opening Ceremony X Columbia, Adidas Originals X Pharrell Williams and Fila X Urban Outfitters providing plenty of inspiration this season.
Forecast
Realism blends with creativity, luxury elevates practicality and negatives become positives as we look towards a season that responds to troubled times with wit, wellbeing and originality. From strange and unnerving times, a sense of clarity and comfort is emerging.

Viewpoint Colour #3

We live in tumultuous times. Rapid urbanisation, political unrest and environmental concerns dominate the news. As a reaction, designers are going on the play offensive to challenge, provoke and entertain, to provide escape and promote invention. This is manifesting as a backlash against playing-it-safe good taste, minimal palettes and classic forms. Designers, artists and makers are making a stand, creating work that prioritises joy and happiness over practicality and function, working intuitively and without over-intellectualised premeditation. They are embracing the ad hoc and the accidental, and surrendering control to material and process in order to embrace serendipity and spontaneity.
In this issue of Viewpoint Colour, we explore the different ways in which we are embracing play, and why this approach feels pertinent now. We explore the different manifestations of playful design in our everyday environments, and discover how play can be an invaluable tool in the process of creation. Ultimately this issue’s forecast is a celebration of colour’s ability to counteract negativity and uncertainty, to create a climate of optimism.
The doors are truly opening onto a brave new world!
 
News: a creative industry round-up of the most insightful colour news stories across the lifestyle industries .
Colour Forecast S/S 2019: this issue’s colour forecast embodies varying aspects of our Play theme: intuitive, uninhibited experimentation defines Happy Accident, interaction and expression reign in Playground, hyperreal and ethereal describe the aesthetics of the Dreamscapes and instinctual mash-ups devoid of political correctness and provenance preoccupations illustrate New Native
Think Pink: we trace the cultural significance of pink through the decades and explain why its most recent incarnation as Millennial pink has led to a perfect storm of pink power 
Visual Essay: ‘Ice Cream Dream’. A visual essay featuring American Dreamsicle by Kelsey McClellan
Flotsam & Jetsam: our third visual essay features Plastic Ocean by Thirza Schaap
Colour of the Year: Pantone Colour of the Year 2018 is ‘Ultra Violet’, 18-3838. Inventive and imaginative, Ultra-Violet lights the way to what is to come.
Çolour Futures: ‘Dark Matter’. The overlooked visceral beauty of natural forms and materials is embraced in a celebration of the darker hues, interpreted by Gemma Fletcher, Alexandra Von Fuerst and Hella Keck.

Textile View #120

They called Rei Kawakubo’s exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of New York “The Art of the In-Between” and that’s exactly where we are in fashion and textiles at the moment. Of course, fashion is always in a state of flux otherwise it wouldn’t be fashion, but the changes we are looking at, now, are far more radical and convulsive than anything seen before.Technical innovation, digitalization, individualisation and democratisation are coming together for the ‘perfect storm’ that will tear down all the existing structures around which we plan, time and create textiles. We are stepping into a new moment of fashion freedom built around the unexpected and accidental.What’s interesting is that it is the haute couture, once the bastion of convention par excellence, that is pointing the way. There, we have already seen a breaking down of barriers, not only in who attends the couture shows but in the way France’s Chambre Syndicale has invited a roster of new names onto the official schedule in a bid to inject a more global viewpoint into the exalted world of haute couture. We also saw a breaking down of barriers in the clothes shown on the runways, with denim and sportswear, even recycled effects, popping up alongside the exquisite handcrafted gowns and luxe furs, which are the hallmark of the traditional couture ateliers.
The doors are truly opening onto a brave new world!
Publisher’s view
In the fashion business, we are pretty confident that AI could never replace us, especially on the design and marketing front – but could that confidence be misplaced?
Fibres & fabrics
At all the fairs this season, the issue on everyone’s lips was ‘sustainability’. Fabric producers are eager to show what they are doing to improve production in sustainable ways
City View
Updates on London, Paris and New York, with an in-depth look at Melbourne, Australia,  no stranger to being voted amongst the top five, most liveable cities in the world, and boasting quite the cornucopia of style, culture and creative hubs.

 

Talking points
We need to learn from the bravery of today’s design graduates. They embrace collaboration, they dabble, roam and explore, they work with scientists, or consult older masters, they are multidisciplinary and they push through walls.

 

Womenswear designer colours
The S/S 2018 catwalks mirrored the mood of the moment, confirming the desire for revolution and change through a series of feel-good trends that coloured everything from the season’s disco-diva, sports-themed silhouettes to razzle-dazzle fabrics.

 

Womenswear designer fabrics, silhouettes and styling details
The S/S 2018 catwalks convey messages that are, at first sight, complex and confusing. It is becoming increasing more difficult to pull out clear directions and this, of course, is a direct reflection of the disorder around us all.

 

Menswear designer messages
Expansive thinking is called for in a fashion world that has jettisoned segments and where deliberately disorderly assemblies of influences are adopted for the mainstream market.  

 

Womenswear fabrics: the last additions
We are all into sustainability and the importance of the circular economy, but we are also into embellishment and fantasy. Yes, there are plenty of muted mid-tones, neutrals and re-cycled hues, but there is also a lot of brilliant, playful colour.

 

Womenswear fabric and colour forecast
Lightness, fresh colours and flowers usually come to mind when one thinks of spring, but fashion collections are becoming both non-seasonal and non-gender specific so we look to antique Botanical drawings of unusual foliage and flowers as inspiration for S/S 2019.

 

Menswear colours, styling and fabrics
Evolving lifestyles, in hand with the athleisure movement, are encouraging a transition towards enhanced comfort. For S/S 2019, this comes through in the form of lighter, more fluid and supple fabrications.

 

Accessories & trimmings forecast and inspirations
Accessories wake up classics, conceptualise the future, make a digression on folk and ultimately transform the mundane into desirable objects. Thanks to accessories freedom of expression has never been so wide.

 

Womenswear knitwear colours, yarns and styling
Sustainability issues are increasingly embedded into the design process and S/S 2019 looks for ways to increase positive environmental benefits through informed fibre choices as well as intelligent material investigations.

 

Menswear knitwear styling concepts
Our themes are based around some very typical menswear values and looks. We open with a homage to mid-west, American pattern and a core of new basic colours: these are followed by more rustic and functional, muted neutral stories.

 

Design and lifestyle Foto 8
Intelligence + empathy + foresight = real innovation

 

Viewpoint #40

CITY FUTURES

If you thought urban life was already stressful, crowded and unremitting, then get ready for even more complex city futures. Fifty years ago, less than a third of the world’s population lived in cities: in fifty years time, that figure will have more than doubled to 70 percent as changing agricultural patterns force rural dwellers into urban migration.
The challenges and issues facing governments and urban planners are exponential – future energy and food sources; environmental and health systems; sustainability issues; transport mechanics for people, goods and data; housing and renewable building materials; a new welfare capitalism; and complete connectivity… to name a few!
The trouble is that in many areas, especially in the West, we have been late confronting the problems of our own very cities’ futures. For many years, cities were seen to be victims of economic decline and hotspots of social breakdown and environmental decay. De-industrialisation, poverty issues and downsizing were thought to be eating away at communities and civic structures. Cities were seen as dinosaurs, extinct leftovers of the Industrial Revolution.
Now, we see everything in a new light. A new urban narrative is taking hold with cities portrayed as centres of economic dynamism and huge melting pots of cultural and ethnic diversity that will nourish innovation, foster productivity and provide the amenities and opportunities to attract the talent to generate solutions and better standards of living of our future cities. In fact, it’s already started. Cities are in fashion once again amongst consumers, tourists and physical transformation already visible on renewed industrial land sites and waterfronts.
As Hester Lacey so clearly points out in The Evidence, “Humans are masters of adaptation and city dwellers are fast evolving to meet the challenges brought on by our shift from rural to urban and finding opportunities within our new habitat.” And changes there will be, as words like “micro”, modular”, “multi-generational”, “collective”, “multi-generational”, “virtual” and “remote working” really take hold.
THE EDIT
The creative industry roundup featuring the new design, retail, lifestyle, material and technology stories that you need to gen up on.
THE BIG IDEA
The 40th issue of Viewpoint explores the socio-cultural macro trends of urbanisation and the mass movement of people to cities, unpacking how these will a effect the spaces in which we live, work and play.
THE TOOL KIT
Introducing the designers, architects and other creatives who are fast evolving to meet the challenges posed by our shift from rural to urban, and nding opportunities within our new habitat. They are applying skill, craft and innovation to transform the cityscape — Adam Nathaniel Furman / Space Encounters Studio Ilio / Storefront / Something & Son.
THE VISUAL ESSAY
A visual essay featuring the work of photographer and sculptor Lorenzo Vitturi, who documents the changing face of the city through collected urban debris.
THE OPINION
Interviewing industry leaders to get their take on The Big Idea — Daan Roosegaarde / Gerard Greene Jing Liu / Thomas Ermacora / Charlie Green.
THE TRANSLATION
Designers and architects of all kinds are rethinking and reshaping the urban landscape, one ingenious project at a time, from engineering nature into our homes and workspaces to harvesting the very pollution our cities create.
DESIGN NOTEBOOK
Reporting on emerging behavioural and attitudinal lifestyle trends that are shaping the design world — The Now Age / Conscientious Commerce / The Femme Sex Tech Revolution / The Myth of Middle Age / Open Minds.
INNOVATION
A rundown of the need-to-know new technologies, materials, approaches and working methods a ecting the creative industries — Voluntary Prosthesis Compostable Consumption / Adaptive Beauty Tech Brain Training / Functional Biophilia.
THE TALENT
A directory of names that you should know. From typographers and photographers to a still-life surrealist, we identify the idea-makers of today — and tomorrow —
Das Leben am Haverkamp / GGSV / Marta Velasco Alexandra von Fuerst / Laurence Leenaert / Lucy Hardcastle Clemence Seilles / Sakaria Studio / Adji Dieye