City Safari: Manchester
Key Concepts: S/S 2021
Denim Details: The Key Seasonal Statements
Meet the Maker – 496 Fabric Lab
Seasonal Themes: Purpose
Seasonal Themes: Off-Centre
Seasonal Themes: Tactility
Seasonal Themes: Near Future
Seasonal Themes: Transformation
Spring/Summer 2021: Conclusions
Autumn/Winter 21/22 Preview: Resilient Nature
Textile View #129
SPRING 2020: OUR FOOTPRINT
Looking back just 10 years to 2010, it is difficult to understand how we got from there to here. It seems only yesterday that Donald Trump was a reality TV star, Boris Johnson was a jocular mayor, and Facebook was just a way of tracking down old friends, rather than a threat to western liberal democracy. It was a decade of austerity, fracking, populism and fake news. But there were also a lot of lifestyle positives: the plastics backlash, women’s rights, veganism, renewables, mental health, gender fluidity, and last, but definitely not least, women’s football.
And what do we remember in the world of fashion? The death of Alexander McQueen and Lady Gaga’s meat dress in 2010; Kate Middleton’s wedding and her sister Pippa’s derrière launching a thousand bottoms in 2011; Kim Kardashian starting a boom in front-cover pregnancy nudes and maternity wear in 2013; the arrival of the hoodie, a lightning rod for aggro and later for luxury; Kanye’s Yeezy Season 1 show in 2015 launching flesh tones and an era of streetwear that bestrode the rest of the decade; Vetements’ DHL T-shirt, ‘Call me Caitlyn’ and the start of the genderless dressing movement; fashion’s discovery of feminism in 2016, when pink became the colour of the decade, reaching new heights in January 2017 as the pussyhat at Women’s Marches across the world; Serena Williams’s Nike catsuit for her first major grand slam appearance in Paris after having a baby in 2018, the same year that body obsession and fitness, epitomised by the Love Island television series, brought us the gym craze. Then, to end the decade, the industry went through a Damascene conversion where, in the face of ‘woke’ culture and climate change protests, doing good became the hot new thing.
2020 and the decade it ushers in will undoubtedly see the end of one era and the start of another, thanks to the impact of a new generation on fashion and fashion systems, and the inescapable consequences of AI. The industry is already fighting on all fronts. It’s not just a question of rethinking business models in the face of more sustainable and responsible practices, it’s also about decreasing costs but increasing services at the same time. On the one hand, industry is looking to cut costs in stockholding, waste, distribution, speed to market, inventory, order fulfillment and customer acquisition; on the other, consumer expectations are rising in terms of self-realisation, meaningfulness, multi purposes, time and money spent, experience and responsible behaviour.
The Future of Making
Eight themes embracing an attitude shift when it comes to the basic gear we make, sell, buy and wear.
The jewellery collection by Cecile Feilchenfeldt, who wanted to reinvent jewellery without hooks or any kind of visible opening or closure, elastic jewellery. No right, no wrong; no front nor back!
Every aspect of the fashion industry needs to act for the future. Our stories look at different attitudes and influences that we feel are central to changes it must make.
The colour landscape for 2021 looks different, seeking out a rebalance on one level, whilst also joyfully embracing seemingly disparate elements.
Womenswear key looks
This is a season for contemplation and paying thoughtful attention to design and how it aligns with our responsibilities to sustainability.
Advanced ideas continue to emerge around how things are made and how materials are sourced, developed, disposed of or regenerated. It’s a progressive evolution, so don’t expect the big seasonal switches of old.
Womenswear trimmings and accessories
We react to our overload in consumption, invent sustainable solutions and focus on a clean fashion production in a season that is more sensitive, intelligent and inventive than ever before.
Casualwear colours and styling
As dress and gender codes blur, just like the seasons, change is in the air from all directions.
Womenswear and menswear fabric and colour forecast
While designers traditionally rely on intuition and experience for problem solving, we look at computational design, which aims to enhance the process by encoding decisions using a computer language.
Print design forecast
Thoughfulness! There is no way to sneak away from sustainability. Print has to be thought as long living, not a quick ugliness of random patterns thoughtlessly thrown onto cheap fabrics for one season only.
All eyes on Tokyo this summer as the Olympic Games takes over the city. The home of kitsch styling and immersive character experiences, Tokyo presents a unique offering of fashion, retail spaces and food.
Saxen Weimarlaan 6HS
1075 CA Amsterdam
Viewpoint Colour #7
Sustainability is an evolving theme that we’ve previously started to unpack, in issues such as Viewpoint Colour #05, the Organic Matters edition, where we explored ways in which we can reassess our relationship with the planet. Now we’re taking the next step, with a controversial central theme. Growth, expansion and prosperity are seen as desirable: we are programmed to strive for ‘more’. But should we in fact be considering ‘no more’? Is it time to embrace degrowth: a downscaling of production and consumption that shifts the focus away from material accumulation and towards human wellbeing and ecological balance? Given the extent and urgency of the climate emergency, is it time to put the brakes on consumption entirely? Can we make do with what we have and with what already exists – in short, stop making new things, full stop? And if so, how will the future role of designers look? How will the design industry evolve?
FORECAST: THE COLOUR CURATORS
In this issue’s forecast feature we celebrate the curation rather than creation of colour. The Colour Curators profiles the designers who are working with existing textiles, materials and products. These creatives are making new from old; finding innovative ways of building colour and materials stories from pre-loved resources while embracing imperfection and irregularity.
THE COLOUR OF LONGEVITY
How can we use colour to design well-loved products that stand the test of time; that enjoy long-term use and outlast fashion trends, fads and gimmicks? Can we design with the intention of second, third or fourth lives, and beyond? How can new designs utilise colour for both functional and emotional longevity?
The Amusement Park photographic series by David Brandon Geeting is a commentary on the false facades of amusement parks. ‘At first glance, an amusement park looks fun,’ Geeting explains, ‘but after you spend some time in one it’s actually a bit nightmarish and everything’s falling apart.’
THE RESALE REVOLUTION
Previously the domain of vintage and thrift store enthusiasts, pre-loved clothing is now being purchased by all demographics, ages and style tribes – from quiet unbranded essentialists to cult streetwear brand followers and designer collectors. Brands and retailers need to step up and pay attention to the resale revolution, for the sake of their own survival and that of the whole fashion industry.
As the second-hand revolution takes hold, we explore how resale retailers are using colour as a key tool to appeal to specific audiences, from the muted pastels of vintage discoveries and the synthetic brights of 1990s sportswear to minimalist, contemporary-classic browns and beige.
RAEBURN: JOURNEY TO ANOTHER DIMENSION
‘We do three things at Raeburn: Remade, Reduced, Recycled. Everything fits into that ethos.’ Christopher Raeburn, founder and creative director, Raeburn
‘I’m really interested in the space downstream. As a producer you should be accountable and responsible for the item, no matter where it is and what it’s doing.’
Graeme Raeburn, performance director, Raeburn
PATTERN FIX: FINDING BEAUTY IN THE ACT OF REPAIR
From contemporary takes on the Japanese shashiko and kintsugi techniques to unapologetic low-fi dipping, taping and gluing, repair is finding new prestige in the design landscape
What if clothes could exist beyond the physical, just like thoughts? Not requiring a single piece of fabric and free even from the pull of gravity, the digital fashion world seems to be unexplored and full of creative potential.
Textile View #128
WINTER 2019 CRESCENT MOONLIGHT
Are we living in a post-happiness world? The question is being raised. According to the 2019 World Happiness Report, which ranks 156 countries based on inhabitants’ perceptions of their wellbeing, happiness in the United States is declining. Americans said they were less content in 2018 than a year earlier, ranking at number 19 in the list, behind Australia (11) and Canada (9). The UK comes in at number 15. The 24-hour news cycle, combined with the onslaught of natural disasters, social upheaval, political strife and economic uncertainty is challenging much of the world and psychologists say anxiety is on the rise.
Experts define happiness as a positive state of overall wellbeing combined with a sense that one’s life has meaning. Joy, by contrast, is delight in moments that, by their nature, are fleeting: we don’t need to be happy to feel joy. That could be why consumers are in love with ephemeral events and moments, such as the Hanami cherry blossom viewing festival in Japan or catching a glimpse of the Northern Lights.
Certainly, marketers have caught onto the concept of ‘joy’. It is used to sell boxes at Ikea. It is included in ads for drinks at McDonald’s and as a prescriptive for female hygiene. There are T-shirts that shout joy as an ‘act of resistance’. There is the Chasing Joy podcast. And a number of books are being published this year devoted to joyful living, covering topics such as marriage, productivity, and positive thinking.