Textile View #125

Rent a life
 
Renting clothes is not a new concept: high-priced, designer items worn for a single occasion, such as a wedding, awards ceremony etc, have long been available for hire. Services that cater to high profile careerwear or short term situations like pregnancy also have their raison d’être. But now subscription services, which offer long-term borrowing on everyday items are mushrooming as well. Mall companies and retailers such as Ann Taylor, Express and New York & Company have all launched monthly subscription services with monthly fees ranging from US$50-95 as a complement to their sales model. Meanwhile, Westfield shopping centre in Stratford, east London, launched it first streetwear hire pop- up store last December. But does the rental model really work at mass consumption level.
According to Allied Market Research, the online clothing rental market will only reach US$1.8 billion by 2023 still a minnow compared to the trillion-dollar total fashion retail market. But are the figures right? According to research by Westfield, 7 out of 10 UK shoppers would pay to rent the hottest fashion/Instagram item of the moment. For 33% of them, the appeal lay in saving money, while 1 in 8 were motivated by the desire to shop in a more sustainable way.
And if renting did take off with consumers, it could help medium priced clothing chains fight off a stave of problems from declining traffic through to continuous markdowns and excess inventory. It could even provide a route to finding a new customer base. But then again, ownership is a powerful thing. Perhaps the biggest fashion question of the future will be how to differentiate between designing for renting and designing for keeps.
The Future of Making
From cyclical design to socially aware timeless aesthetics, from grown to engineered scenarios, these six themes are set to make and shape fashion in seasons and years to come.

 

Lifestyle
A softer world by OvN. Take a step back and relax! Be thankful for what you have, connect to the lightness of being, and enjoy life as it is!
Menswear r-t-w designers
It is clear that the future is very much on the designers’ minds – seen either through flashes of the past, techno rave or sci-fi. The season is utopian in colour for many, dystopian in layers of retro-futurism for others.
Womenswear inspirations
Attitude is everything, be it quiet and noiselessly resolute or fierce, provocative and strident. So many things are worth fighting for and our modern woman is determined to stand for all of them.

 

Womenswear key looks
In a cross gender/cross cultural world, casual disorderly clashes are welcomed. We see this code mixing with the drive for regenerating, recycling and a desire for responsible products.
Womenswear fabrics
The initial goal might be to manufacture more quickly, efficiently and sustainably, but we must continue to invest in textile technology to achieve more interesting and desirable product development.
Womenswear trimmings and accessories
From forceful and architectural empowerment to super smooth sensuality and assertive seduction, from the mythical goddesses of ancient times to the pussy power collective of our new modern world: feel free to celebrate female fashion.
Casualwear colours and styling
For S/S 2020, we look into developing consumer lifestyles: what drives their thinking, their choices and their vision of the future.
Menswear colours, styling and fabrics
S/S 2020 presents a season of diverse colour ranges, from dark and moody looks that reflect this uncertain time to fresh, nature inspired harmonies and flamboyant palettes that celebrate optimism and omni-culture.
Women’s and menswear fabric and colour forecast
For A/W 20/21, we present nine fabric inspirations born out of a love for textiles and an eagerness to trigger and inspire desirable garment concepts.
Women’s and menswear fabric and colour forecast
For A/W 20/21, we present nine fabric inspirations born out of a love for textiles and an eagerness to trigger and inspire desirable garment concepts.
Print design forecast
The A/W 20/21 season is about sisterhood, enchantment and magic – celebrating wild women through stories of folklore and colourful ritual.

 

View Two #26

With a new year comes a fresh start, and as we turn our attention ahead to Spring/Summer 2020, putting another year of unrest and uncertainty behind us, we focus on developing
a refreshed and relaxed, laid-back aesthetic with an overall calming and nurturing effect. As we expand on our big ideas for the season, introduced in our issue 25 forecast, we continue
to explore the idea of a world in flux. Change is constant and it is transforming our everyday lives, particularly in terms of our fashion choices. While certainly not a new topic, sustainability continues to dominate textile talk. With many brands having vowed to fully overhaul their fabric selections and production methods by January 2020, it seems this season will be a key milestone for the fashion and textile industry.

 

The Big Ideas

We continue to explore the concept of flux, examining the interconnecting themes that surround this idea through
key cultural drivers, to build a series
of colour palettes and harmonies that epitomise each statement and envelop the season.

Denim Archive

The key ideas driving denim trends for S/S20, selected from the archives of denim collector and consultant Gill Riddell and shot on location at Paul Vogel Design.

Denim Statements

Our edit of the latest and most commercially relevant updates in denim detailing for the S/S 2020 season, presented by leading mills and manufacturers at Kingpins Amsterdam, Denim Première Vision and Bluezone by Munich Fabric Start.

Casual Concepts

A restored focus on establishing longevity and founding wardrobe staples that cross looks and seasons is propelled forwards, as manufacturers and consumers tire of waste and the repercussions of throwaway culture. Efficiency, sustainability and functionality become key words for the season.

Bio-Futures: Turning To Nature

Bio-based fibre innovations will become the future of fashion, leading the charge as we look to reduce our consumption of man-made materials. We look to the innovators that are pushing the boundaries in order to deliver more sustainable options for future production.

Athleisure Statements

Active and casual wardrobes continue to blur and become more streamlined, influenced largely by the ease and comfort of streetwear and the functionality of technical performance garments. We highlight the key crossover statements emerging for S/S 2020.

SS20 Active Concepts

Digital advances continue to push innovation in the active arena. E-sports and training experiences enhanced by virtual reality (VR) continue to grow in popularity, while the 2020 Tokyo Summer Olympics promise to fully immerse viewers through VR broadcasting.

AW20/21 Performance Concepts

As consumer consciousness gains new heights, the performance sector continues to lead the industry in terms of environmentally friendly design and innovative manufacturing solutions. Eco-awareness is no longer restricted to seasonal themes but envelops entire ranges across all categories. Tokyo 2020 is set to be the most sustainable Olympic Games to date

Autumn/Winter 20/21 Forecast

For A/W 20/21, we are embracing escapism, but running towards new experiences rather than away from reality. Whether we seek silence as a way to avoid noisy modern life, or experiment with psychedelia to discover new perspectives, we are looking for solace and wisdom.

Viewpoint Colour #5

ORGANIC MATTERS

 

Everyone is agreed! If we are to save our selves and the environment, we need, urgently, to reassess our relationship with our beleaguered planet; we need urgently to abandon our “Masters of the Universe” mentality and humbly accept that Nature has been creating a perfect, interactive system from single-celled organisms to complex ecosystems. Only one of the many life support systems on which we depend – soils, aquifers, rainfall, ice, the pattern of winds and currents, pollinators, biological abundance and diversity – need fail for everything to slide. Tipping points are too easily passed, institutional and political failure pushing us ever onwards to the cliff edge. 

 

Some are already betting on the worse. Others of us, not so dystopian, are turning to technical and economic solutions to avoid collapse in the belief that nature and technology improve upon each other. That’s great, but shouldn’t we start by following nature’s very own, unadulterated model, applying its efficiency to create new ways to create and consume. Some thinkers and designers are already embracing organic principles emulating the way spiders work, growing materials as if plants, taking inspiration from nature’s patterns and colours. But, it doesn’t stop there… 

 

A new aesthetic is taking hold blending the natural world with the spiritual and mystic, comprising colours that represent both the calming and dynamic facets of the natural world and offering products that combine both natural and futuristic elements. And talking of times to come, we are sitting on the brink of a new visual realm where we ponder a new nature reality as designers ask, “What will be the next natural colour?”

 

As Cotton Inc concluded in its own vision of S/S 2020, “Looking to nature as the true innovator as it inspires all industries from creative design to logistical engineering, our lens, through which we analyse and appreciate nature, is forever altered.”

Colour News 

Our round-up of all the latest developments and happenings in the world of colour.

The Context: Organic Matters

Forward-thinking designers are seeking to harness the power of nature’s super-efficient circular systems, as we start to realise that working with nature rather than against it provides the best hope for the planet. 

Colour Forecast S/S 2020

Nature remastered, untamed flora, mineral patina and raw earth are our pointers to the season ahead.

Visual Essay: The Living Surface

Featuring Fernando Laposse, Martijn Straatman, Jonas Edvard, Studio Klarenbeek & Dros, Nienke Hoogvliet and Atelier NL 

Colour Inspiration: Painterly & Imperfect 

Natural and organic-based paints work in harmony with nature to create pigments with unique and dynamic depth. It’s time to exchange pristine, flat colour coverage for warmth, depth and painterly richness. 

Colour Meaning: Off White 

Far more shades of white are commercially available than of any other colour; the variations of off-whites are far more than just a blank canvas.

Pantone Announces the Color of the Year 2019 

PANTONE® 16-1546 Living Coral. Life affirming coral hue energizes and enlivens with a softer edge. 

Long Term Colour Forecast: Hyper Chroma Nature 

An infrared macro lens captures an exaggerated simulation of a nature that never existed. Colours take on an artificial authenticity, hinting at a hypernatural future in which human intervention manipulates and enhances the natural world. 

Textile View #124

ARE WE REALLY CHANGING?

The environmental impact of production and consumption systems is central to any contemporary conversation about fashion and design. After more than 25 years of debate, suspicion and indecision, companies are slowly rising to the challenge of creating sustainable products. The question is: why did it take so long to arrive at this point and can the industry really get it to work right through the textile platform?

 

The reason behind this change of heart lies in the combination of a top-down approach by governments across the world, enforcing an environmental agenda embracing everything from plastic drinking straws to air and water pollution, with a groundswell of public opinion demanding and taking action on everything from fracking to fur. The anvil of consumer pressure is reflected not just in demands for transparency but also in the rise of veganism, company boycotts, interest in ethical indexes and, most significantly, in the past few months, decelerated consumption, the reasons for which go far beyond questions of austerity and economy.

 

And this pressure will only grow as Generation Z joins the ranks of the Millennials in the push for ‘responsible’ living. Their heroes are not high-street multiples or status-laden brands but change leaders such as Stella McCartney, who have placed ‘guilt-free’ principles at the heart of their brands. But, McCartney is not alone. More and more companies are seeing that sustainability and environmental awareness make sense not only morally but also economically. That’s not just because of possible savings in energy, water and processing costs, but also because sustainability is an asset to long-term corporate image and market value.

Lifestyle: principles of progress
 
We live in times of rapid change: this can be at once exhilarating and frightening. Wonderful new things happen, but we also see that resistance against anything new can take on extreme forms.
Dressing the Soul
 
While we seek the new and reject the aging in today’s society, Birgitta de�Vos invites us on an armchair journey embracing aging and discovering ageless beauty with her latest book Dressing the Soul | Ageless Beauty.

 

Womenswear designer colours
 
Designers in all four fashion capitals embracing women and gender-fluidity of every colour, age, size and creed in a celebration of diverse femininity.
Womenswear designer fabrics, silhouettes and styling details
 
A new elegance is emerging on the catwalk: free of restraint, women can show their power without dressing like warriors.

 

The latest additions to womenswear collections with pointers to S/S 2020
 
Textiles is echoing the world in its topsy-turvy rush from confidence and optimism to uncertainty and pessimism. And that’s a shame, because fabric manufacturers continue to be alchemists.
Womenswear fabric and colour forecast
 
Exquisite butterflies with their unusual colourways and striking patterns that adorn their wings are pure inspiration for textile design.

 

Menswear colours, styling and fabrics
 
Dark and moody palettes reflect an anxious age where in the face of ongoing social and political unrest and uncertainty, confrontational angst has become the norm.

 

Accessories & trimmings forecast and inspirations
 
A duality that mirrors slow industry and is manifestly anti-consumerist, a duality that plays between hand-craftsmanship and technical functionality, a game of minimal and abrupt decorative contradictions.
Womenswear knitwear colours, yarns and styling
 
A lightness and buoyancy permeates our thinking for the summer season. We look with fresh eyes at the issues that are fundamental going forward: things that matter to us and indeed the planet.

 

Knitwear yarn, structure and colour forecasts
 
A frazzled fashion for alternative ways to dress plays with textures spun out of a gilded sparkle.
 
City view: London, Paris, NY and Seattle

Viewpoint #42

GUILT FREE

Imagine a future where the culture around consumption had evolved so far that responsibly manufactured products were the norm rather than the exception – a future of guilt-free living.
In Viewpoint #42, the Guilt-Free edition, we explore how that future could become reality. A groundswell of popular horror at the ravaging of the planet, both in environmental and human terms, has become a potent force. We don’t want to sacrifice our oceans for a new drinking bottle every day or a microbeaded facial scrub – nor do we want to find ourselves eating our own rubbish when that plastic finds its way back into the food chain. We don’t want a throwaway £10 dress if it was made using modern-day slavery.
Brands, governments and organisations alike are being forced to take notice – and some of them, at least, are welcoming the imperative. Long-standing forces for good in the retail world such as Ikea and Patagonia are being joined by a host of others, including some of the largest corporations on the planet – who are belatedly recognising that sustainability makes not only good sense for securing our future but also good financial sense.
The importance of design’s role in guilt-free living cannot be overstated. People want to make consumption decisions that actively do good, or at the very least, do no harm. But these products need to be readily available, attractive and affordable – and therein lies the challenge for the creative community.
THE EDIT
This guilt-free creative industry roundup features the eco-conscious thinkers seeking to change the future for the better
GUILT FREE
There is increasing evidence that people have a genuine desire to accurately establish the implications of their consumption choices – and are keen to identify the options that are best not only for themselves but also for their fellow humans and for the planet.
THE EVIDENCE
We cannot ignore what we can clearly see – and we can see it writ large in mainstream media. The final episode of the BBC’s hugely popular 2017 Blue Planet II series showed sobering images of oceans awash with plastic and ended with David Attenborough’s call to action: ‘The future of all life on earth now depends on us.’
AGAIN AND AGAIN

We are in the midst of a material revolution, where the discarded is becoming the essential, and waste is becoming wanted.

THE PIONEERS

Global thought leaders give their take on this issue’s central theme — Christopher Raeburn / Shaun Frankson / Suzanne Lee / Tom Domen / Dave Hakkens / Daniela Bohlinger.

VEGAN REVOLT

Vegans can now satisfy a desire for indulgent treats and classic comfort food without the need to compromise their morals.

MINDSET SHIFTS

Reporting on emerging behavioural and attitudinal lifestyle trends — Debunking the Myth of Body Perfection / Conscious Luxury Fashion / Kindfulness / Activist Youth.

AFTERLIFE

Designing the end at the beginning How we view and design products, not as static objects but as dynamic and evolving systems, is key to this more sustainable future.

FIND YOUR VOICE

Protest Press believe in the power of design to create social change.