They called Rei Kawakubo’s exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of New York “The Art of the In-Between” and that’s exactly where we are in fashion and textiles at the moment. Of course, fashion is always in a state of flux otherwise it wouldn’t be fashion, but the changes we are looking at, now, are far more radical and convulsive than anything seen before.Technical innovation, digitalization, individualisation and democratisation are coming together for the ‘perfect storm’ that will tear down all the existing structures around which we plan, time and create textiles. We are stepping into a new moment of fashion freedom built around the unexpected and accidental.What’s interesting is that it is the haute couture, once the bastion of convention par excellence, that is pointing the way. There, we have already seen a breaking down of barriers, not only in who attends the couture shows but in the way France’s Chambre Syndicale has invited a roster of new names onto the official schedule in a bid to inject a more global viewpoint into the exalted world of haute couture. We also saw a breaking down of barriers in the clothes shown on the runways, with denim and sportswear, even recycled effects, popping up alongside the exquisite handcrafted gowns and luxe furs, which are the hallmark of the traditional couture ateliers.
The doors are truly opening onto a brave new world!
Season in review
Infographics of the development in men’s and women’s retail bestseller S/S 2017 offered very strong, in-store visual statements, but underneath these trend concepts and top line messages, what were the real success stories driving both newness and profitability? And how will these evolve for S/S 2018?
Menswear r-t-w designers
Today, in fashion, to be modern means a multitude of things. It can be to embrace cyberspace; it can be to wear vintage iconic prints and logos; It can be to capitalize on social media, and it can be to embrace unexpected collaborations.
Stories focus on moods that are soft, stable and cocooning or, conversely, are driven by vibrant, energetic and shimmering colourful stimuli.
The new generation of designers is rewriting the rules to tell personal stories and turn the spotlight on the things that matter. Impressive is the depth of their investigations as well as their new malleable thinking and flexible working processes.
Womenswear key looks
Shapes and fashion looks for A/W 18/19 primarily align themselves closely to the properties and behaviour of the chosen cloth.
Of course, there’s black and textures, but what’s so striking about this season is the determination of manufacturers to play with colour, shine, pattern and embellishment. Accidental fashion has taken root.
Womenswear trimmings and accessories
From the playful and virtual world of the future to the treasured masterpieces of the past, that remind us of our origins and heritage, designers want to inspire with stories that project a deeper awareness, personality and emotion.
Casualwear colours and styling
Technology disrupts work and play, becoming a driving force in how we live and how we dress. New advances in fabrics and technology are breaking down the barriers between work and leisure, casual and formal, old and young, art and commerce.
For A/W 18/19, there is a clear dichotomy in terms of fabric design and experimentation, the one playing with a pensive, subtle, invisible cloak of texture and pattern, the other taking a bold and extrovert approach.
Womenswear and menswear fabric and colour forecast (6)
Here, just this once, we will not be talking about fabrics for fashion, but rather fabrics for clothes that don’t dazzle, but actually help us navigate in a world that becomes more unfathomable by the minute.
Print design forecast
The emphasis is on unabashed, powerful pattern embracing sportswear for the street, rebellious and taking no prisoners. Prints are loud and proud on functional fabrics, with a militant message. Broken pattern for a broken society – the proximity to chaos calls for defiant combinations of theme and colour.
This season we prefer to ignore the date, and instead feel for cross seasonality, or a trans-seasonal code that speaks to a multi gender constituency looking not to be boxed into types or fashion ‘looks’.
Future of making
We enter a wonder-world, full of radically new aesthetics and disruptive technologies, where designers are operating at the borders between creative human gesture, machine robotics and computer algorithms to explore material, shape and function.
Welcome to our totally re-thought and re-designed View Two. We have radically updated the magazine to bring it into line with changing market conditions and a new audience of Millennials and Gen Z’s.
Our aim is to apply context to concept and to offer a creative, aspirational view on the market as a whole with a commercial and user-friendly focus. We focus on all aspects of denim, casual, athleisure, active and performance in their pure forms, but also explore the blurring lines and boundaries between these areas in order to create a new design and lifestyle vision, that reflects exactly what’s happening in this rapidly expanding, merging and increasingly unbounded sector of the market.
From manufacturers to designers, the clear structure and build up of the magazine makes it easy to find the specific information any reader is looking for. Our combination of text and visuals have a new, cleaner feel but are still highly versatile making this product unique.
BIG IDEAS A/W 18/19
In this issue we highlight ‘Human Connection’. Anti-establishment fervour, revolt and activism mean we are living in a time of political and social flux and uncertainty. As we seek respite and sanctuary in more conscious ways of living, concepts such as mindfulness, morality and wellbeing are coming to the fore.
DENIM CONCEPTS A/W 18/19
For Autumn/Winter 18/19, fabric development is veering away from detail-heavy denim looks as fabric suppliers focus their attention on furthering genuine innovation and textile interest. In our pages, we highlight three key fabric themes for the season. Dramatic contrasts can be seen between denim weights. Very rigid, heavy denims of 16oz or more are contrasted against surprisingly soft and super-stretch fabrics, as well as true-knits with an authentic denim look, both of which bridge the gap into the realms of athleisure.
CASUAL CONCEPTS A/W 18/19
The social and economic factors outlined in our ‘Big Ideas’ section reference themes such as enhanced comfort, consciousness, nostalgic escapism, and the stress created by ‘stuffocation’ – having too many belongings. These are now explored in greater detail through six casual concepts, where themes continue to speak to a more gender-fluid aesthetic with functional, uniform-like outfitting and oversized, anti-bodycon silhouettes being key. The theme of comfort is further explored through our fabric stories, which see tactile combinations of corduroy, brushed and peached jerseys, velvets and dense furs.
ATHLEISURE CONCEPTS A/W 18/19
As consumers seek greater versatility and wellbeing to slow the momentum of continually connected modern lifestyles, athleisure continues to build a defined presence on the high street. The need to switch off and unwind is seeing sportswear fabrics with enhanced comfort and performance capabilities filter into our everyday wardrobes.
ACTIVE CONCEPTS A/W 18/19
As consumers seek to enhance their lives through enriched active experiences, inspiration this season comes from fitness becoming more widely regarded as a route to escape. Wellness hotels are becoming more popular, now with in-room fitness equipment, sleep programmes and dedicated concierge services to map out running routes for guests. Beyond these metropolitan retreats, military-style boot camps offer an opportunity to disconnect from the monotony of daily routine and reconnect with nature outdoors.
PERFORMANCE CONCEPTS A/W 18/19
After decades of catering to a core demographic of middle-aged outdoor sports veterans, outdoor brands have turned their attention towards the Millennial market. This is particularly evident as clothing, footwear and accessories from outdoors brands such as Poler Stuff and Patagonia make their way into everyday urban wardrobes. Collaborations between established outdoors companies and cool young brands such as Supreme and Kith are helping this market gain further momentum.
FORECAST S/S 2019 (Pic 7)
Spring / Summer 2019 will be a season of many contradictions. Emotions will clash and fight-or-flight instincts will kick in, but, building on our overriding themes for Autumn/Winter 2018, most of all the season will evoke the wholly human need to belong.
There are three big problems facing the world: the rise in anti-globalisation sentiment; the growth of popular nationalism; and the unstoppable loss of blue-collar jobs. These are creating a polarised society riddled with contradictions. There seems to be no middle ground, only conflicting opinions, studies, and data about all the big issues surrounding us. Our general insecurity has only been exacerbated by the unexpected, from Brexit and the election of President Donald Trump to the emergence of ‘post-truth’ society. We live in fear of what might come next.
It’s hardly surprising that in this divided and divisive world, more and more people think it’s time to speak out and pin their colours to the mast, on issues concerning gender, women’s equality, immigration, privacy and even democracy itself. And brands are following suit as they understand that basic CRS policies are no longer enough: they need to be seen to be socially and politically engaged on a genuinely effective level.
Corporate altruism is becoming more common, as car companies create and promote green initiatives, or beauty brands promote a “natural look”. There have been many notable initiatives: Nike moving its marketing money away from huge-name celebrities into community training initiatives and races; L’Oréal announcing in March it would support the C40 Women4Climate initiative, mentoring 500 women in 10 cities who are working towards possible solutions for climate change. So how’s morality going.
The question is how this ‘new morality’ will show itself in our textile and fashion business?
The winter menswear shows express two divergent sides of masculinity: one that is concerned with simple