Textile View #130

Textile View #130

RESET, RESTORATION OR REVOLUTION
If you believe all that you read, many things will never be the same again after the coronavirus pandemic. But it’s not the first time that we have stared disaster in the face and expected transformation. As the financial crisis of 2008 showed us, it takes more than hope to change the world. So, it is to be reset or restoration? No one can answer that question, because no one knows what’s going to happen once the coronavirus has subsided – or when or if we will find a vaccine. The best prophet, wrote Thomas Hobbes, is the best guesser. However, one thing is sure: what the consumer is searching for now is security, trustworthiness and clarity.

 

We need to accept that the pandemic and the damage it has done has not necessarily changed the world, rather it has accelerated trends that were already shaping business. When it comes to deglobalisation, companies have been busy lowering their exposure to countries that carry high geopolitical or health risks for some time. We have been talking about data for many years now and it can only encroach further on our lives. In purely business terms, anything that promises to reduce stock and minimise risk has to be a plus. The virus has also opened the door to a robotic army and the post-coronavirus workforce could look quite different. Economic downturns have a habit of spurring automation.

 

And fashion? The sector is expected to contract by 27-30% this year, according to the State of Fashion 2020 Coronavirus Update report by the Business of Fashion and McKinsey & Company. It hasn’t been easy for the fashion industry for some time, but “doing the right thing” was not only the fashion norm of 2019, but also encapsulated much of the industry’s response to the pandemic.

Publisher’s view
By 2022 the world will be fundamentally changed, much the same, or somewhere in between. We think it will probably be much the same but, hopefully, with some significant changes.

Design and lifestyle – touching consumer hearts as well as their minds!
In this era of data, algorithms, bots, and a self-learning internet of everything, where does the boundary between man and machine actually lie? What separates out human intelligence from artificial intelligence?

SEASON IN REVIEW
Autumn/Winter 20/21

Womenswear designer fabrics, silhouettes and styling details
Navigating extremely challenging territory, the best collections showed an assertive show of strength: forceful statements, packed with confidence.

Menswear designer messages
Free expression. The profundity of being male… Is there any such thing as ‘the mainstream man’? We think not. Today and tomorrow is all about blending and nuance.

SEASON IN FOCUS
Spring/Summer 2021

The latest additions to womenswear collections with pointers to A/W 21/22
There are those that say it’s a ‘lost season’ and that retailers will just box current Summer 2020 merchandise until next year. We don’t agree. There will be a season, but the approach will be different with buying done in a more directed, less seasonal way.

Menswear fabric orientations
10 new looks, where a new lightness is key and plains are favoured over elaborate effects to build the basics. Natural, dry and textured eco materials contrast with refined smoothness and ultra-light technical styles.

FORWARD VIEW
Autumn/Winter 20/21

Womenswear fabric and colour forecast
In these uncertain times, creativity will flourish as we become more focused and resourceful. We will be able to rethink all aspects of our profession, taking time to reflect on our world’s magnificently diverse cultures.

Menswear colours, styling and fabrics
A ‘hopepunk’ feeling envelops the season, with positivity being driven by community, creativity and reconsidered consumerism.

Accessories & trimmings forecast and inspirations
Under high protection. A vision of the future that aims to be cerebral and survivalist, where the driving forces are built on a new balance of forms and volumes.

Womenswear knitwear colours, yarns and styling
We gravitate towards things that hold personal or collective meaning, discarding the superficial and short lived and diving deeper for our inspiration.

Menswear knitwear styling concepts
Creatives are confined to their homes with limited access to new inspiration and, with travel this year unlikely, they will search for alternative resources and find their surroundings the catalyst for revitalised creativity.

BRIEFING

Fibres & fabrics
This season’s yarn and fabric fairs were driven by sustainability and eco responsibility, with many yarn and fabric choices taking account of sustainable criteria. Certainly, every fair is giving the issues more space.

City view
With nowhere to travel in light of lockdowns, in place of our regular ‘City View’ feature, we take a look at how industries have adapted and how culture, inspiration and escapism has moved online.

View Publications
Saxen Weimarlaan 6HS
1075 CA Amsterdam
The Netherlands

Info@view-publications.com

View Two #28

View Two #28

In With the New

With a brand new decade stretching out before us we contemplate the future (and the past) more so than ever, considering the big shifts and evolutions the next ten years may bring. Hoping to emerge and recuperate from years of global political upheaval, there certainly seems to be a hint of hope in the air as individuals, communities and businesses pledge to find their own solutions, working collaboratively to identify and pursue unified goals.

Positive change is on the horizon. In the world of fashion and textiles, substantial developments continue to come through from innovative mills and manufacturers. Realistic routes to establishing circular economies are evolving, and the presence of recycled, recyclable and biodegradable fabrics across key tradeshows are on the up.

Markets continue to merge and evolve. What started out as the ‘athleisure’ trend, a fad to some, is now permanently rooted within our everyday wardrobes. This performance lifestyle aesthetic has become so intertwined, and so paramount to the way we dress, that these now ‘core’ pieces are almost completely inseparable from our casual and denim looks.

It is for this reason that we have shaken up our approach to delivering your seasonal trend information in this issue of View Two Magazine. Each of the five themes laid out here – Purpose, Off-Centre, Tactility, Near Future and Transformation – show the complete seasonal picture, supporting concept development and merchandising across casual, denim and athleisure markets for spring summer 2021. While some themes are slightly more weighted towards casual and denim end looks, you will find others are more heavily influenced by performance lifestyle wear.

The five seasonal themes are supported by our Key Denim Details, covering the essential move-ons showcased at Kingpins and Denim Premiere Vision, as well as our Key Seasonal Concepts feature, which highlights the major recurring themes through nine succinct looks pulled from the rails of vintage dealers, lesser known designers and established brands.

City Safari: Manchester
Having played a pivotal role in the history of cotton, global textile production and broader industries, the northern powerhouse of Manchester is now home to a flourishing crowd of fashion manufacturers, creative businesses, digital innovators and global brand headquarters.

Key Concepts: S/S 2021
We explore the season’s key concepts through a series of looks curated with the support of vintage dealers, enterprising international designers and established brands. Nine succinct looks epitomise the key looks and details that inspire our fabric sectors from denim and casual to performance and lifestyle wear.

Denim Details: The Key Seasonal Statements
Our edit of the latest and most commercially relevant updates in denim detailing for the spring summer 2021 season, presented by leading mills and manufacturers at Kingpins Amsterdam, Denim Première Vision and Bluezone by Munich Fabric Start. Here we show one of our stories, Petal Pinks, a must have for the season as coloured denim continues to trend.

Meet the Maker – 496 Fabric Lab
As founder and creative director of the pioneering Taiwanese denim mill 496 Fabric Lab, Wayne Chiang discusses his career, his inspirations and latest indigo jacquard innovations.

Seasonal Themes: Purpose
It is more important than ever that across all fields, design must be purposeful and have meaning. Sustainable fabric selections, local production and gentle finishings are key.

Seasonal Themes: Off-Centre
Nostalgia and authenticity have never looked so fresh. This modern retro theme takes inspiration from urban sports & subcultures who have traditionally sat outside of society’s ‘norms’.

Seasonal Themes: Tactility
Global craftsmanship is celebrated without borders as a melting pot of pre-loved references are reworked into casual, denim and athleisure silhouettes.

Seasonal Themes: Near Future
Sci-fi like uniform looks merge high-end styling with high-tech performance. Functional detailing and technical fabrications are worked into hybridised garments with a futuristic ‘life proof’ aesthetic.

Seasonal Themes: Transformation
Rooted in wellbeing and self-care, with a new age ritualistic undertone, transformation blends technical athleisure looks with natural influences, fabrics and finishes.

Spring/Summer 2021: Conclusions
The season as a whole feels somewhat familiar, with touches of nostalgia, but at the same time has a fresh and revitalised eccentricity. Themes explore new vintage, new nomadic and new future aesthetics.

Autumn/Winter 21/22 Preview: Resilient Nature
Resilient nature becomes one of the pivotal factors of the season as scientists, architects and designers identify new uses for easily and rapidly grown materials such as mushroom mycelium and algae.

View Publications
Saxen Weimarlaan 6HS
1075 CA Amsterdam
The Netherlands

Info@view-publications.com

Textile View #129

Textile View #129

SPRING 2020: OUR FOOTPRINT

Looking back just 10 years to 2010, it is difficult to understand how we got from there to here. It seems only yesterday that Donald Trump was a reality TV star, Boris Johnson was a jocular mayor, and Facebook was just a way of tracking down old friends, rather than a threat to western liberal democracy. It was a decade of austerity, fracking, populism and fake news. But there were also a lot of lifestyle positives: the plastics backlash, women’s rights, veganism, renewables, mental health, gender fluidity, and last, but definitely not least, women’s football.

And what do we remember in the world of fashion? The death of Alexander McQueen and Lady Gaga’s meat dress in 2010; Kate Middleton’s wedding and her sister Pippa’s derrière launching a thousand bottoms in 2011; Kim Kardashian starting a boom in front-cover pregnancy nudes and maternity wear in 2013; the arrival of the hoodie, a lightning rod for aggro and later for luxury; Kanye’s Yeezy Season 1 show in 2015 launching flesh tones and an era of streetwear that bestrode the rest of the decade; Vetements’ DHL T-shirt, ‘Call me Caitlyn’ and the start of the genderless dressing movement; fashion’s discovery of feminism in 2016, when pink became the colour of the decade, reaching new heights in January 2017 as the pussyhat at Women’s Marches across the world; Serena Williams’s Nike catsuit for her first major grand slam appearance in Paris after having a baby in 2018, the same year that body obsession and fitness, epitomised by the Love Island television series, brought us the gym craze. Then, to end the decade, the industry went through a Damascene conversion where, in the face of ‘woke’ culture and climate change protests, doing good became the hot new thing.

2020 and the decade it ushers in will undoubtedly see the end of one era and the start of another, thanks to the impact of a new generation on fashion and fashion systems, and the inescapable consequences of AI. The industry is already fighting on all fronts. It’s not just a question of rethinking business models in the face of more sustainable and responsible practices, it’s also about decreasing costs but increasing services at the same time. On the one hand, industry is looking to cut costs in stockholding, waste, distribution, speed to market, inventory, order fulfillment and customer acquisition; on the other, consumer expectations are rising in terms of self-realisation, meaningfulness, multi purposes, time and money spent, experience and responsible behaviour.

The Future of Making
Eight themes embracing an attitude shift when it comes to the basic gear we make, sell, buy and wear.

Lifestyle
The jewellery collection by Cecile Feilchenfeldt, who wanted to reinvent jewellery without hooks or any kind of visible opening or closure, elastic jewellery. No right, no wrong; no front nor back!

Womenswear inspirations
Every aspect of the fashion industry needs to act for the future. Our stories look at different attitudes and influences that we feel are central to changes it must make.

Womenswear colours
The colour landscape for 2021 looks different, seeking out a rebalance on one level, whilst also joyfully embracing seemingly disparate elements.

Womenswear key looks
This is a season for contemplation and paying thoughtful attention to design and how it aligns with our responsibilities to sustainability.  

Womenswear fabrics
Advanced ideas continue to emerge around how things are made and how materials are sourced, developed, disposed of or regenerated. It’s a progressive evolution, so don’t expect the big seasonal switches of old.

Womenswear trimmings and accessories
We react to our overload in consumption, invent sustainable solutions and focus on a clean fashion production in a season that is more sensitive, intelligent and inventive than ever before.

Casualwear colours and styling
As dress and gender codes blur, just like the seasons, change is in the air from all directions.

Womenswear and menswear fabric and colour forecast
While designers traditionally rely on intuition and experience for problem solving, we look at computational design, which aims to enhance the process by encoding decisions using a computer language.

Print design forecast
Thoughfulness! There is no way to sneak away from sustainability. Print has to be thought as long living, not a quick ugliness of random patterns thoughtlessly thrown onto cheap fabrics for one season only.

City view
All eyes on Tokyo this summer as the Olympic Games takes over the city. The home of kitsch styling and immersive character experiences, Tokyo presents a unique offering of fashion, retail spaces and food.

View Publications
Saxen Weimarlaan 6HS
1075 CA Amsterdam
The Netherlands

Info@view-publications.com

Viewpoint Colour #7

Viewpoint Colour #7

PRE LOVE

Sustainability is an evolving theme that we’ve previously started to unpack, in issues such as Viewpoint Colour #05, the Organic Matters edition, where we explored ways in which we can reassess our relationship with the planet. Now we’re taking the next step, with a controversial central theme. Growth, expansion and prosperity are seen as desirable: we are programmed to strive for ‘more’. But should we in fact be considering ‘no more’? Is it time to embrace degrowth: a downscaling of production and consumption that shifts the focus away from material accumulation and towards human wellbeing and ecological balance? Given the extent and urgency of the climate emergency, is it time to put the brakes on consumption entirely? Can we make do with what we have and with what already exists – in short, stop making new things, full stop? And if so, how will the future role of designers look? How will the design industry evolve?

FORECAST: THE COLOUR CURATORS
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In this issue’s forecast feature we celebrate the curation rather than creation of colour. The Colour Curators profiles the designers who are working with existing textiles, materials and products. These creatives are making new from old; finding innovative ways of building colour and materials stories from pre-loved resources while embracing imperfection and irregularity.

THE COLOUR OF LONGEVITY

How can we use colour to design well-loved products that stand the test of time; that enjoy long-term use and outlast fashion trends, fads and gimmicks? Can we design with the intention of second, third or fourth lives, and beyond? How can new designs utilise colour for both functional and emotional longevity?

FAKE FACADES

The Amusement Park photographic series by David Brandon Geeting is a commentary on the false facades of amusement parks. ‘At first glance, an amusement park looks fun,’ Geeting explains, ‘but after you spend some time in one it’s actually a bit nightmarish and everything’s falling apart.’ 

THE RESALE REVOLUTION

Previously the domain of vintage and thrift store enthusiasts, pre-loved clothing is now being purchased by all demographics, ages and style tribes – from quiet unbranded essentialists to cult streetwear brand followers and designer collectors. Brands and retailers need to step up and pay attention to the resale revolution, for the sake of their own survival and that of the whole fashion industry.

PRE-LOVED COLOUR 

As the second-hand revolution takes hold, we explore how resale retailers are using colour as a key tool to appeal to specific audiences, from the muted pastels of vintage discoveries and the synthetic brights of 1990s sportswear to minimalist, contemporary-classic browns and beige.

RAEBURN: JOURNEY TO ANOTHER DIMENSION

‘We do three things at Raeburn: Remade, Reduced, Recycled. Everything fits into that ethos.’ Christopher Raeburn, founder and creative director, Raeburn

‘I’m really interested in the space downstream. As a producer you should be accountable and responsible for the item, no matter where it is and what it’s doing.’

Graeme Raeburn, performance director, Raeburn

PATTERN FIX: FINDING BEAUTY IN THE ACT OF REPAIR

From contemporary takes on the Japanese shashiko and kintsugi techniques to unapologetic low-fi dipping, taping and gluing, repair is finding new prestige in the design landscape

DEMATERIALISED COLOUR

What if clothes could exist beyond the physical, just like thoughts? Not requiring a single piece of fabric and free even from the pull of gravity, the digital fashion world seems to be unexplored and full of creative potential.

Textile View #128

Textile View #128

WINTER 2019 CRESCENT MOONLIGHT

Are we living in a post-happiness world? The question is being raised. According to the 2019 World Happiness Report, which ranks 156 countries based on inhabitants’ perceptions of their wellbeing, happiness in the United States is declining. Americans said they were less content in 2018 than a year earlier, ranking at number 19 in the list, behind Australia (11) and Canada (9). The UK comes in at number 15. The 24-hour news cycle, combined with the onslaught of natural disasters, social upheaval, political strife and economic uncertainty is challenging much of the world and psychologists say anxiety is on the rise.

Experts define happiness as a positive state of overall wellbeing combined with a sense that one’s life has meaning. Joy, by contrast, is delight in moments that, by their nature, are fleeting: we don’t need to be happy to feel joy. That could be why consumers are in love with ephemeral events and moments, such as the Hanami cherry blossom viewing festival in Japan or catching a glimpse of the Northern Lights.

Certainly, marketers have caught onto the concept of ‘joy’. It is used to sell boxes at Ikea. It is included in ads for drinks at McDonald’s and as a prescriptive for female hygiene. There are T-shirts that shout joy as an ‘act of resistance’. There is the Chasing Joy podcast. And a number of books are being published this year devoted to joyful living, covering topics such as marriage, productivity, and positive thinking.

Winter 2019
Publisher’s view: as the textile industry fight to clean up its image with the public, we look at how “honesty is the new authenticity”.

Winter 2019
Lifestyle: climate change isn’t an abstract concept; the changing environment will impact every aspect of our lives: what we wear, eat, do and where we live.

Winter 2019
Lace archive: a look at handmade lace, which requires exceptional skill and patience, is the antithesis of contemporary textile production.

Spring/Summer 2020
Womenswear designer colours and colour mixes: reflecting on the past is another key influence for S/S 20 colour trends with designers revisiting the minimalism of the 1990s with a revival of electrifying neons highlighting the calming influence of a simple monochrome palette.

Spring/Summer 2020
Womenswear designer fabrics, silhouettes and styling details: in a time of crisis, and for sure we are in those times, fashion can act as a distraction or can pick up the mantle and become a trailblazer?

Spring/Summer 2021

Womenswear fabric and colour forecast: nature’s beauty and diversity continues to inspire textile designs, through astonishing colour combinations

Spring/Summer 2021
Menswear colours, styling and fabrics: the shift towards more balanced lifestyles, that make time for nature and the great outdoors, inspires an uptake in naturally occurring colourings.   

Spring/Summer 2021
Womenswear knitwear colours, yarns and styling: our heightened sensitivity directs the way, pointing towards knits that are soothing to touch and shapes that are comforting to wear.

Spring/Summer 2021
Menswear knitwear styling concepts: we are inspired by the past in ways we would probably deem romantic and somehow picturesque

Autumn/Winter 21/22
Knitwear forecast: creativity will save us all. Immersive colour, escapist textures and sensory modernity step forward in new A/W 21/22, knitwear looks.     

City view: city of the moment, Toronto

View Publications
Saxen Weimarlaan 6HS
1075 CA Amsterdam
The Netherlands

Info@view-publications.com