“Don’t ask me where I’m from, ask where I’m a local. ”
Taiye Selasi in her TED talk
We are weathering turbulent times. Is it no wonder we feel the need to nest, to retreat into something comforting and familiar, avidly exploring concepts such as lagom (just the right amount – Sweden), hygge (a mood of coziness and comfortable conviviality – Norway and Denmark) and now coorie (the Scottish for cuddling up).
For some for us, our nest is a place of safety; it can be somewhere in our mind’s eye, or it can be a collection of people, not a destination at all. Sometimes, it is just an abstract feeling that you can’t quite put your finger on – our happy place.
Wherever is it, whatever it is, the desire to make something we can return to is a need so deep, we cannot shake it off. It seems we are not so different from denning animals and leaping salmon.
A transitional family of four green centered colours that form a cool reflective palette infected with a touch of turquoise. Living in nature, it stands as a clear and confident advent for summer 2021.
This is a nostalgic collection of pastels that oscillate between past and present. Neither classic nor modern, they remind us of domestic childhood favourites such as cake icing, and rose scented soap. 
Gentle neutral shades, with a strange and quiet benevolence, imagined as an inflated protecting cocoon, acting as a buffer between the outside and the inside.
To enjoy the warmth, the personal freedom and the simple or not so simple pleasures of being at home. A secret place in which to enjoy your own madness!
These colours are some of the key building blocks for the winter palette. They are a restful, balanced and considered group of soothing pales and, together, they meld and work impeccably with the stronger tones in the collection.
Four strong and muscular colours that have both intensity and depth: they are versatile, lending themselves to many end-uses. This is true hybrid-wear and is genderless in outlook.
A mysterious, metallic purple mixes with lilac, duck egg and a wispy pale blue. This is a palette that straddles nature and science, sometimes surreal and sometimes familiar.
These shaded winter darks hover around the idea of black without its harshness. They are more focused on dimension and substance, rocking between faux luxe and a brute minerality.



Deep sea animals follow a surprisingly regular pattern when it comes to colour. Blue animals live near the surface. Deeper down they are blue on top and white underneath, further below they take on transparent qualities but have red stomachs and below that, they are all red or all black. At the deepest level, they are pale red or cream. 
Our colour card for S/S 2020 is not quite so consistent. For example, our deep darks move to lofty pales. But, just like the sea creatures, our different palettes have different depths, from the inky blues of the sperm whales to the brightest orange of a clown fish.
In previous seasons, we saw a lot of ethereal shades, but what begins to come through for spring summer, is a profundity of colour. Each palette seems to live in a sea of its own not necessarily related to the world around it. This is very reflective of the tribal behaviour going on in consumption right now and even of the ways in which people generally regard water: fear, excitement, energizing, challenging, relaxing; beach and resort, work and struggle. 
When we come to harmonies and cross-fertilization, the step forward lies in the contrasts. There is so much more than before. Although the pales are presented tone-on-tone in their own story, they are contrasted with harder colour in the harmonies – a turquoise with lagoon grey or a bright orange with the taupe family. We see hot with cold colours. This is because our colour expressions explore all depths of water, reflecting the coolest of streams as well as thermal beds of underwater volcanoes.

This palette comprises four ethereal shades: a dark slate, a wispy blue, a muted khaki and a ghostly green. Genderless in outlook, they possess a certain gravitas that lends itself to refined products with handmade elements.

Four deep and weighty personalities to dive into. At their heart, a fantastic ‘eyes-wide-open’ black sets up differences with the inkiest, darkest blue and a profound purple shading. All of this is given a shaft of intensity with a jeweled and saturated blue. 

Mysterious colours appear in the deep. In this abyssal blue, illuminated by artificial light, exist pink crustaceans, transparent echtoplasms, green, deep purple, yellow carapaces, multi-coloured jellyfish and pink crustaceans…

Like jumping into a fresh and cool waterscape filled with bubbles and plant fronds, we combine our four key colours move from turquoise to dark silt with two light and super-cool menthol blues.

This is a range based on new medium tones and neutrals that come from the sea with either a humid and hydrated expression or a salty dryness, so different from the earthy and dusty hues of previous seasons.

Ultra soft, pearly shades that offer a neutral and subtly feminine environment. Pinks and nudes are de-saturated and cooled, while beiges act in duotone, one bright and one with a gently gold twinkling, serving as a summer substitute for the ubiquitous camels of the previous winter.

A jolly quartet of flat, vibrant colour leads the way in this seaside palette of painterly hues. Highly contrasting, hugely fun and very, very graphic, the feeling in this family of brights is rooted in nostalgia and old-fashioned seaside towns.

The four tones we have called “New Lilac” transition A/W 19 to S/S 2020. Our first tone is the clearest and suits transparency; the second suggests relaxed atmospheres; the third acts as a highlight; and the fourth, opaque and dense, is the base for further combinations.


The Circle 



Circles signify everything and nothing at all. They are both historic and forward-facing. They represent inclusivity in a world that generates more and more diversity. Perfectly balanced and without bias, they radiate neutrality yet embrace us all. This is something we hope to achieve with our circle of colour for A/W19/20.
We foresee a winter palette that continues to be colour intense. Why are people in love with colour? The answer lies in our emotions. It’s about generating happiness and lifting our spirits while connecting emotionally to our own state of mind. Colour forms an important part of our visual identity. Self-promotion and self-branding is a way of life for so many people; colour is becoming an increasingly important part of that journey through a selfie-oriented world.
Overall, we see a season of colour that radiates diversity, ranging from a new level of flat, painterly primaries to pastels that are more active than romantic. Our palette embraces the division between colour as an exercise in maximalism shades that generate multi-dimensional visual perspectives and colour used on a functional basis down to earth utility shades, recycled hues and core essentials.
A small family of tinted neutrals form the base of this colour group. Jet-black is paired with a warm grey: a dusted blue lies with a paler partner. They form duos of dark and light, allowing a layered approach to colour application.
This is a respectful’ range, whose aim is not to excite or shock but to partner any chromatic proposal without judgement.
This is a modern and future facing palette of colours that combines the natural and the manmade. Taking inspiration from the world we find about us, the colours are jarred and at odds.
A new, warm winter range is characterized by a filtered and false tonal palette that sees a soft, hot red against a lightened orange, and a matt, subdued taupe that speaks to a cloud of ochre dust.
Colours that tell the tale of the circle of life, where we turn to Buddhist paintings and mandalas, Chinese creation myths and Roman frescoes of Persephone for inspiration.
The unknown of the past and what is yet to be known materialize in shades that only hint at their internal nature and in dark tones that just hint at a colour.
Fulsome winter pigments that have a retro ambiance. They are not pure primaries, they are blended and slightly impure, but still have an enduring appeal.


Viewpoint #39

Set your moral compass


In Viewpoint #37 we explored Rebellion and the current thirst for dissent. In Viewpoint #38 we looked at the grassroots power that comes when people Think Small. Morality, Viewpoint #39’s Big Idea, ties in with both. The subversion of the bland, over-curated status quo is important, and the ‘small revolution’ is gaining traction – but an underlying morality needs to be the foundation of both, and principles are an issue that cannot be ignored.


In this issue’s Evidence feature, we trace the ways in which morality is becoming a touchstone for individuals, public figures and brands. Across the board, there is a shift towards nailing colours to the mast and seeking to make a difference. Whatever your sphere of influence, from the local neighbourhood to wider fields, there is an increasing realisation that it’s no longer about relying on governments or institutions to set the standard for behaviour and principles, but about making a personal stand in everyday life.


Viewpoint #39’s Delivery keynote feature profiles Ikea; you probably already acknowledge the brand for its affordability and its design credentials, but its genuine and longstanding ethical stance deserves to be better known. Our Morality Seekers section, new for this issue, gets into the mindsets of an inspirational set of activists who realise that action to benefit others and the planet offers genuine fulfilment. Among others, we meet upfront, steely Fifth Wave Feminists, and Millennials who are using creativity on social networks to spread inspiration for positive change. And in our visual essay, Messages of Resistance, we revisit the poster, always an invaluable communication tool, and now more relevant than ever in the age of protest that has suddenly become a reality. In this issue, we feature a collection of downloadable Women’s March posters.



The Edit

The creative industry round-up featuring the new design, retail, lifestyle, material and technology stories that you need to gen up on




The Context

Each issue we report on The Big Idea, the current topic influencing the creative industries, exploring the core rationale for this thematic focus and the context behind the trend. This issue: MORALITY. In a chaotic world where political uncertainty
has become the norm and battles against injustice of all kinds seem to be stalling, we are seeking clarity. We want to know where we stand, and what others stand for, hence the current emphasis on morality.



The Evidence

We show how MORALITY, this issue’s Big Idea, is beginning to affect the creative industries, unpacked through cutting-edge case studies and the work of pioneers in the field.




The Morality Seekers

Consumers are responding to a world of environmental, social and political crises with new lifestyles that prize ethics, conscientiousness and moral thinking. In this turbulent and unsettling world, the Morality Seekers are on a new quest for meaning in their complex 21st-century lives — The Fifth-Wave Feminists / The Escapists / The Armchair Activists / The Essentialists / The Neo-Vegans.




The Visual Essay: Messages of Resistance

A visual essay exploring The Big Idea, featuring posters produced for the Women‘s March.




The Opinion

Interviewing global leaders to get their take on The Big Idea — Anne Keenan / Platon Antoniou / Ryan Honeyman




The Delivery

An in-depth analysis of the ways IKEA is bringing The Big Idea to market





Reporting on emerging behavioural and attitudinal lifestyle trends that are shaping the design world — Urban Defence / Micro and Mobile / New Modesty / DIY Health




Design Notebook

A visual exploration of emerging design movements across the lifestyle industries and their influence on colour, shape and form — Geometric Illusions / Air & Water / Granular / New Terrazzo / Mechanically Crafted





A rundown of the need-to-know new technologies, materials, approaches and working methods affecting the creative industries — Supercharged Wellbeing Spaces / The Remade Home / Sweating the Resource / Responsive Digital Environments / Digital Play / Tech Transparency





A directory of names that you should know. From photographers and digital designers to botanical artists and branding magicians, we identify the idea-makers of today – and tomorrow — Juno / Liselore Frowijn / Special Projects / Azuma Makoto / Ian Cheng / Pamm Hong / Elizabeth Renstrom / Ben Biayenda












TV #117: SPRING 2017

Welcome to our new-look, new-concept Textile View magazine, which we hope will help guide you through the demanding times ahead. First, we have redesigned the look of our “textile bible” to make it cleaner looking, easier to read and straightforward to navigate. Of course, we stand by the core and heart of the product, which is built round high quality analyses and forecasts of textile design and fashion directions, but we have added new sections to reflect the changes we have been witnessing and reporting on in our business.
These adjustments start with a new approach to our “City Views”, where we look more deeply into selected, up-and-coming destinations to see how reorientations in consumer lifestyle and behaviour have affected local dress codes and retail development. Our “Season in Review” section is completely new. In the trend business, it is all too easy to go from one new look to the next without stopping to see how the original idea succeeded and evolved. That is a mistake, especially as we move into seasonless fashion programmes, where trends don’t emerge to disappear and be replaced in a continuous cycle, but evolve and develop. So, in “Season in Review”, we trace the unrolling and progress of some of the stand-out colours, items and silhouettes that have emerged in recent seasons – not from a trend-book base, but from the shop floor, highlighting specific developments and sharing our view on how these will move on, in an easy-to-read, infographic format.
The growing importance of trans-seasonal thinking brings us to our third new section, “Season in Transition”, where we focus on some of the noteworthy fabrics that will bridge the months from one season to the next (in this issue, we cover summer to autumn 2018). We deliberately take a gender-neutral approach here, focusing neither on menswear nor womenswear, preferring to leave these pages open to interpretation. With longevity and versatility the watchwords of the moment, and consumers forsaking fast, throwaway fashion for longer-term investment buys, we believe that the trans-seasonal or seasonless aspect of the business can only grow.
City view: we have reveamped this section to look to explore deeper in not necessarily fashion capitals but new city scapes where ideas are developing to become mainstream in the future.
Season in review: Autumn/Winter 17/18
Season in Review: our new feature where we trace, through infographics, the unrolling and progress of some of the stand out colours, items or silhouettes that have emerged in recent seasons
Menswear r-t-w designers: with the latest A/W17/18 shows, we are invited to observe the real world with all its diversity, its commonplace, its inclusivity, its openness and merging of all creative concepts.
Season in focus: Spring/Summer 2018
Womenswear inspirations, colours, styling: Summer 18 moves around two distinctive spheres of influence acting together to bring about change. Picking up on the global atmosphere of transformation and revolution, the future is looking set for a rocky ride: we identify two clear realms that reflect the mood.
Womenswear trimmings and accessories: accessories and trimmings concentrate on the concept of personal empowerment, as fashion continues to celebrate personality, gender and individuality as well as family heritage, origin and provenance.
Womenswear fabrics: the key to success this summer is to exceed expectations, to have an open mind about what belongs where and when, and, above all, to present the world with some astonishing combinations.
Casualwear colours and styling: as global interconnectedness facilitates communication and knowledge of new nations, planets and possibilities, some seek adventure and unpredictability abroad, while others crave simplicity, crossing borders to escape danger, destruction and information overload.
Menswear colours, styling and fabrics: an overall feeling of authenticity envelopes the season, as we observe the development of themes that focus on the re-emergence of hand-crafted, analogue processes.
Season in transition
Summer/Autumn 2018
Season in transition: transitional ranges and the evolution of seasonless core items, updated in relevant fabrics and styling details.
Forward view
Autumn/Winter 18/19
Womenswear and menswear fabric and colour forecast: designers are tapping into the conversations of our times so that their contribution to the world will reflect the concerns of our age. One interesting topic in discussion is how to change fashion garments into real luxury items that are everlasting rather than seasonal and touch the people, who wear them, on many levels.
Print design forecast: the trend is Individualism. It is about the rejection of conformity, normality and the ideal. We now want to live without anxiety and the autocracy of search engines. We need immunity from filters that mirror previous choices and offer only versions of things already experienced.
Out of fashion | the new fashion: Birgitta de Vos’ world journey to meet long forgotten textile makers and methods