Viewpoint #39

Set your moral compass

VP39 COVER

In Viewpoint #37 we explored Rebellion and the current thirst for dissent. In Viewpoint #38 we looked at the grassroots power that comes when people Think Small. Morality, Viewpoint #39’s Big Idea, ties in with both. The subversion of the bland, over-curated status quo is important, and the ‘small revolution’ is gaining traction – but an underlying morality needs to be the foundation of both, and principles are an issue that cannot be ignored.

 

In this issue’s Evidence feature, we trace the ways in which morality is becoming a touchstone for individuals, public figures and brands. Across the board, there is a shift towards nailing colours to the mast and seeking to make a difference. Whatever your sphere of influence, from the local neighbourhood to wider fields, there is an increasing realisation that it’s no longer about relying on governments or institutions to set the standard for behaviour and principles, but about making a personal stand in everyday life.

 

Viewpoint #39’s Delivery keynote feature profiles Ikea; you probably already acknowledge the brand for its affordability and its design credentials, but its genuine and longstanding ethical stance deserves to be better known. Our Morality Seekers section, new for this issue, gets into the mindsets of an inspirational set of activists who realise that action to benefit others and the planet offers genuine fulfilment. Among others, we meet upfront, steely Fifth Wave Feminists, and Millennials who are using creativity on social networks to spread inspiration for positive change. And in our visual essay, Messages of Resistance, we revisit the poster, always an invaluable communication tool, and now more relevant than ever in the age of protest that has suddenly become a reality. In this issue, we feature a collection of downloadable Women’s March posters.


CONTENTS VIEWPOINT #39

 

The Edit

The creative industry round-up featuring the new design, retail, lifestyle, material and technology stories that you need to gen up on

 

VP39 THE EDIT

 

The Context

Each issue we report on The Big Idea, the current topic influencing the creative industries, exploring the core rationale for this thematic focus and the context behind the trend. This issue: MORALITY. In a chaotic world where political uncertainty
has become the norm and battles against injustice of all kinds seem to be stalling, we are seeking clarity. We want to know where we stand, and what others stand for, hence the current emphasis on morality.

 VP 39 THE CONTEXT

 

The Evidence

We show how MORALITY, this issue’s Big Idea, is beginning to affect the creative industries, unpacked through cutting-edge case studies and the work of pioneers in the field.

 

VP 39 THE EVIDENCE

 

The Morality Seekers

Consumers are responding to a world of environmental, social and political crises with new lifestyles that prize ethics, conscientiousness and moral thinking. In this turbulent and unsettling world, the Morality Seekers are on a new quest for meaning in their complex 21st-century lives — The Fifth-Wave Feminists / The Escapists / The Armchair Activists / The Essentialists / The Neo-Vegans.

 

VP 39 MORALITY SEEKERS

 

The Visual Essay: Messages of Resistance

A visual essay exploring The Big Idea, featuring posters produced for the Women‘s March.

 

VP39 VISUAL ESSAY

 

The Opinion

Interviewing global leaders to get their take on The Big Idea — Anne Keenan / Platon Antoniou / Ryan Honeyman

 

VP39 OPINION

 

The Delivery

An in-depth analysis of the ways IKEA is bringing The Big Idea to market

 

VP 39 THE DELIVERY

 

Undercurrents

Reporting on emerging behavioural and attitudinal lifestyle trends that are shaping the design world — Urban Defence / Micro and Mobile / New Modesty / DIY Health

 

VP 39 UNDERCURRENTS

 

Design Notebook

A visual exploration of emerging design movements across the lifestyle industries and their influence on colour, shape and form — Geometric Illusions / Air & Water / Granular / New Terrazzo / Mechanically Crafted

 

VP 39 DESIGN NOTEBOOK

 

Innovation

A rundown of the need-to-know new technologies, materials, approaches and working methods affecting the creative industries — Supercharged Wellbeing Spaces / The Remade Home / Sweating the Resource / Responsive Digital Environments / Digital Play / Tech Transparency

 

VP 39 INNOVATION

 

Talent

A directory of names that you should know. From photographers and digital designers to botanical artists and branding magicians, we identify the idea-makers of today – and tomorrow — Juno / Liselore Frowijn / Special Projects / Azuma Makoto / Ian Cheng / Pamm Hong / Elizabeth Renstrom / Ben Biayenda

 

VP39 TALENT

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TV #117: SPRING 2017

CURIOSITY
Welcome to our new-look, new-concept Textile View magazine, which we hope will help guide you through the demanding times ahead. First, we have redesigned the look of our “textile bible” to make it cleaner looking, easier to read and straightforward to navigate. Of course, we stand by the core and heart of the product, which is built round high quality analyses and forecasts of textile design and fashion directions, but we have added new sections to reflect the changes we have been witnessing and reporting on in our business.
These adjustments start with a new approach to our “City Views”, where we look more deeply into selected, up-and-coming destinations to see how reorientations in consumer lifestyle and behaviour have affected local dress codes and retail development. Our “Season in Review” section is completely new. In the trend business, it is all too easy to go from one new look to the next without stopping to see how the original idea succeeded and evolved. That is a mistake, especially as we move into seasonless fashion programmes, where trends don’t emerge to disappear and be replaced in a continuous cycle, but evolve and develop. So, in “Season in Review”, we trace the unrolling and progress of some of the stand-out colours, items and silhouettes that have emerged in recent seasons – not from a trend-book base, but from the shop floor, highlighting specific developments and sharing our view on how these will move on, in an easy-to-read, infographic format.
The growing importance of trans-seasonal thinking brings us to our third new section, “Season in Transition”, where we focus on some of the noteworthy fabrics that will bridge the months from one season to the next (in this issue, we cover summer to autumn 2018). We deliberately take a gender-neutral approach here, focusing neither on menswear nor womenswear, preferring to leave these pages open to interpretation. With longevity and versatility the watchwords of the moment, and consumers forsaking fast, throwaway fashion for longer-term investment buys, we believe that the trans-seasonal or seasonless aspect of the business can only grow.
 
CONTENTS TV 117 
Briefing
City view: we have reveamped this section to look to explore deeper in not necessarily fashion capitals but new city scapes where ideas are developing to become mainstream in the future.
 
City-View
 
Season in review: Autumn/Winter 17/18
Season in Review: our new feature where we trace, through infographics, the unrolling and progress of some of the stand out colours, items or silhouettes that have emerged in recent seasons
 
Season-in-review-
 
Menswear r-t-w designers: with the latest A/W17/18 shows, we are invited to observe the real world with all its diversity, its commonplace, its inclusivity, its openness and merging of all creative concepts.
Season in focus: Spring/Summer 2018
Womenswear inspirations, colours, styling: Summer 18 moves around two distinctive spheres of influence acting together to bring about change. Picking up on the global atmosphere of transformation and revolution, the future is looking set for a rocky ride: we identify two clear realms that reflect the mood.
 
_WW-SS18-inspiration
 
 
Womenswear trimmings and accessories: accessories and trimmings concentrate on the concept of personal empowerment, as fashion continues to celebrate personality, gender and individuality as well as family heritage, origin and provenance.
 
_WW-Trims-&-Accessories- 
Womenswear fabrics: the key to success this summer is to exceed expectations, to have an open mind about what belongs where and when, and, above all, to present the world with some astonishing combinations.
 
_WW-Fabrics
 
Casualwear colours and styling: as global interconnectedness facilitates communication and knowledge of new nations, planets and possibilities, some seek adventure and unpredictability abroad, while others crave simplicity, crossing borders to escape danger, destruction and information overload.
 
Casualwear-
 
Menswear colours, styling and fabrics: an overall feeling of authenticity envelopes the season, as we observe the development of themes that focus on the re-emergence of hand-crafted, analogue processes.
 
MW-Colour-styling-replacement-pic
 
 
Season in transition
Summer/Autumn 2018
Season in transition: transitional ranges and the evolution of seasonless core items, updated in relevant fabrics and styling details.
 
Season-in-transition
 
Forward view
Autumn/Winter 18/19
Womenswear and menswear fabric and colour forecast: designers are tapping into the conversations of our times so that their contribution to the world will reflect the concerns of our age. One interesting topic in discussion is how to change fashion garments into real luxury items that are everlasting rather than seasonal and touch the people, who wear them, on many levels.
 
_WW-&-MW-fabric-forecast
 
Print design forecast: the trend is Individualism. It is about the rejection of conformity, normality and the ideal. We now want to live without anxiety and the autocracy of search engines. We need immunity from filters that mirror previous choices and offer only versions of things already experienced.
 
19
 
Out of fashion | the new fashion: Birgitta de Vos’ world journey to meet long forgotten textile makers and methods
Pic-to-add-to--Book-preview-(dragged)

PANTONE VIEW COLOUR PLANNER #39

We all have our time machines, don’t we? Those that take us back are memories… and those that carry us forward, are dreams.” – HG Well

The concept of time is an integral part of our lives, woven into our everyday language. Time defines what we are doing, thinking, planning and feeling. We constantly measure time to see how much we can accomplish. Information must be relayed in “real time”. Time limits frustrate us, while spare time is a luxury. Time is a commodity; we spend it, we waste it, we use it wisely, we devote it to others, we lose track of it.
Time is something that we don’t want to run out of. Like a spool of everlasting thread, anchored somewhere in the darkness, it winds out of the past and on into the future, connecting us all in complex ways. It is the one unalterable, dependable thing that cannot be broken or stretched – yet.
This season’s Colour Planner tries to capture the many facets of time: the fast and furious, the slow and simple, the past and future. We reinterpret tropes that feel conventional and pair them with scenarios that are far removed from conventional. Colours range from classic formats through to fully saturated, punchy narratives. It’s a balance between the familiar and the strange, the dark and the light.
CONTENTS
TIME LESS
A simple but nuanced set of four near-neutrals quietly headline this enduring and naturally inspired story – a mute, honest and calm introduction to the season.
TIME HONOURED
Rusts, and corroded greens – coloured neutrality each symbolising the passing of time and how this affects living matter.
THE BEGINNING OF TIME
The myths of the beginning of time tell of deep darkness, which we represent, here, with a indefinite, dusty blue teamed to the colours of rocks, illuminated by light.
TIME STOPS
These rich, weighty, winter brights are used liberally and with exuberance. They are equal in importance and can be used as single colour, solid statements or together in simple combinations.
TIME LAPSE
The speed of light and blurred vision influence all the colours here. Obscure darks are the background against which rushing brights hit, collide, and slam into each other.
SPLIT SECOND
From a base of vivid, fractured and heated brights, we explore the split second movement that animated colour brings. Intensely hot shades of red gradually chill down to first purples and then blues.
FLOW
A predominately monochrome palette with touches of the lightest hues that infiltrate and permeate each other. Black and white are universal and ever-present.
ANOTHER TIME
Last season’s transitional blues ebb into the realm of turquoise.  Although they are content to mingle with one another, they are, in fact, designed to be contrasted with other shades from outside the blue family.
KEEPING TIME
The green colours here make up a seasonless, transitional range featuring various hues, each one with its own identity.
 

 

View2 #22

EDITOR’S VIEW || Out is the New In!
A bold statement you might think, but it’s not just about this British editor’s whim (BREXIT was absolutely not on my agenda!), or to seem ‘on trend’ in this slogan-driven world, in which we now find ourselves. There are many reasons behind our thinking this issue and all of them are interesting and important for the industry as a whole.
When we started planning out the issue, we put out feelers to our team and contacts (as we always do), to gauge what the general vibe is around the globe as well as to learn what new things are happening in terms of R&D and production. As we visited the fabric shows and spoke to people at the heart of the industry, or simply struck up conversations with Joe public on the streets, we just kept coming back to the same strong thread – ‘Out is the New In!”
This made us look at the way we present out city reports to you. No longer are they focused on the most inspirational street looks we come across and new shops that have opened up in the obvious fashion capital cities, instead we present the urban zeitgeist of interesting areas and neighbourhoods, where new creative hubs are emerging thanks to young inspiring folk opting out of the norm, or simply moving out to escape gentrification and rising prices.
We also introduce a brand new Athleisure Concepts section, where “out” refers quite literally to product channelled towards getting out and about and exercising – something with ever more relevance as the athleisure revolution continues to expand. And this expansion demands realistic product that answers our daily needs (not just for exercise, but to provide performance and comfort at any given moment, no matter what the activity of the wearer).
“Out” also applies to companies who may be looking to move out of a comfort zone to explore new product categories and work with new fabrics and technologies. For those, who may be looking to add athleisure product to their collection, it is vital to understand the properties of sportswear fabrics and technologies and so, with this in mind, we answer a few pertinent questions in our Science Behind Athleisure interview with leading sports technologist, Ross Weir. We have also added Fabric News into both our denim and sport sections to highlight some of the key innovations that are happening in fabric production and manufacturing right now. The pioneering developments that we see coming forward also show that manufacturers are having to think “out”side of the box in order to build more sustainable practices for the future.
In terms of the ‘concepts’ and ‘forecasts’ in this issue, you will see that the majority of them look to forms of getting “out” and escaping, whether that be to new nomadic paradises, as seen in our Footwear Concepts, or into virtual reality inspired gaming worlds, as highlighted in our Casual Forecast. Even when we take a nostalgic look backwards for inspiration, the recurring message is resolutely focused on drawing out the key historical essence, then rethinking and repurposing it for today.
When it came to the visual identity of this issue, it therefore seemed the perfect choice to approach someone to collaborate with us for our cover whose entire identity in the public realm has been built upon challenging the norm and not conforming. Laser 3.14 is a street poet with real integrity. His canvas is the city of Amsterdam, but he does not deface architecture, he writes inspiring, stop-you-in-the-street poetic prose on temporary hoardings, boarded up entryway woodwork and tarpaulins. Each statement evokes and potentially prevokes a reaction in the viewer. But these are temporary exhibition places rendering his statements transitory, meaning the messages he leaves are all based upon the moment.
When we met and discussed our concept, he immediately felt for it, because it is a statement that resonates right now, not just for him or for us, but globally. The result is a visually stunning and challenging piece of art. Our covers have always been graphic, but never dark – this is a dark one, but the underlying message is optimistic. Challenge! Explore! Create!
 
View2 #22 – Contents
 
SECTION 1: URBAN SPIRIT
What better way to get to grips with our magazine concept of “Out is the New In!” than to explore how this vibe is emerging in different places around the globe. So we introduce you to a brand new approach to our city street and retail reports that focuses on the people, places, cultural events and new talent not just in key fashion cities, but also in slightly off-the-beaten track towns and regions too.
 
1-urban-spirit
 
SECTION 2: DENIM
DENIM MOST WANTED
In our styling trends, we see a waistcoat revival, elegant overalls and modern trench coats. A subtle layering of assorted blues show individuals are not afraid to go all out for a total blue look, but patchwork is still sowing its way into many themes. When it comes to silhouettes, think big!
 
2-denim-most-wanted
 
FABRIC DIRECTION          
This season we find the attention focused on highly decorative and ornate surfaces. A late1980s/early 90s aesthetic is also apparent but, recycled and organic yarns, new-tech (high visual impact, low environmental impact) finishing techniques and, above all, upping the game in terms of overall eco and sustainable credentials is what it is really all about.
 
3-denim-fabrics
 
SECTION 3: CASUAL
CONCEPTS
It is a season of reflection and escapism with an overriding thread of authenticity. The result is a very human eclecticism, where relaxed silhouettes lean towards genderless dressing, functionality is a focal point and colour is balanced and mixed in new ways that sit in harmony with this mind-set. Nothing shouts out, but, at the same time, it all feels new.
 
4-casual-concepts
 
 
FORECAST
Our forecast is based on virtual worlds. We try to find utopia within dystopia, by looking at the world with new eyes and striving to create a better future and keep a positive outlook. So, we have named our stories with the prefix ‘Re-’ (meaning ‘back’ or ‘again’) as a sense of rejection of the old, or the wrongs of the past, to push for regeneration.
 
5-casual-forecast 
SECTION 4: SPORT
ATHLEISURE CONCEPTS
A new section to View2, our Athleisure Concepts focus on a life in transition. The world has never been so accessible, digitally and physically, and so we live in a state of constant motion – place to place, hot to cold, light to dark. The versatility of active silhouettes, textiles and details mean we can transition through multiple scenarios in a single outfit.
 
6-athleisure-concepts
 
THE SCIENCE BEHIND ATHLEISURE
Athleisure – a term not so long ago penned as a fad or a trend has now evolved into THE buzzword of the moment. With that in mind, we introduce you to Ross Weir, a sports technologist and delve deeper in to The Science Behind Athleisure.
 
7-the-science-behind-athleisure 
 
FABRIC NEWS & FABRIC DIRECTION
Our fabric section shines a spotlight on some of the latest innovations in fabrics, fibres and technologies for the activewear market. From new, hybrid solutions that partition fibres and jacquard structures into zones providing seamless garment functionality to strong, environmentally sustainable approaches to fabric production, there is a lot to get excited about.
 
8-sport-fabrics
 
FORECAST
The power of the collective over the individual is brought to the fore once more, as sportswear sets aside the cult of the celebrity in favour of pragmatic product focus and a knowledge-driven core. Low on branding and devoid of slogans, but high on tactility and technologic advances.
 
9-sport-forecast 
SECTION 5: FOOTWEAR & ACCESSORIES
FOOTWEAR CONCEPTS             
Everything is becoming fluid – from gender to borders, to jobs, time and even reality. This has everybody feeling restless and continuously on the lookout for new horizons as well as new roots. All our concepts deal with escapes to different forms of shelter and paradise, yet they all revolve around being always on the move.
 
10-footwear-concepts
 
ACCESSORIES CONCEPTS        
Each story explores the relationship between digital and analogue design processes. As our lifestyles become increasingly multifaceted, a new utilitarian approach is applied to multi-functional accessories for the urban nomad. In stark contrast, we see the evolution of honest and authentic hand-crafted design.
 
11-accessories-concepts 
+
An interview with Mohsin Sajid and our usual round up of all the best new websites and apps.
 

Viewpoint Colour Issue 2

THE COLOURS FUTURE BOOK
NEO-NATURE
Welcome to our first issue of Viewpoint Colour, created by View Publications and FranklinTill Associates for all colour conscious industries. Offering you visual inspiration, design direction and a global perspective on colour, we see it as a sister magazine and perfect complement to our highly successful, Viewpoint Design magazine, which is dedicated to product innovation, and a logical follow-up to our colour forecasting book, PantoneView Colour Planner.
Why a magazine dedicated to colour? Colour is the single most powerful communication tool, influencing 50% – 85% of ideas and product purchase decisions. With 80% of human experience filtered through the eyes, visual cues are vital in getting a message across and nothing does this better than the thoughtful use of colour.
Our aim is to supply you with the critical and actionable colour intelligence you need to make your colour planning easier. With a focus on what’s really important, Viewpoint Colour will give you both a macro and local view on key colour stories, focusing both on the short term and the long term. We achieve that by working on two levels: short-term forecasting/orientation where we map out and analyse key upcoming colour direction 12-18 months ahead of the season; and long- term forecasting/orientation, what’s on the colour horizon three years from now.
In our opening issue, we have put ‘neo-nature’ at the core: a modern, organic and purposeful story using classic inspiration. Biomimicry has long since been a deep well of inspiration for designers and will continue so until the genetic code of Mother Nature has been cracked. We see green, with its sense of soothing continuity, as the zeitgeist of the moment.
Originally the Viewpoint magazines were born to take up branding and strategy questions. We still hold to that remit, but we have sought to broaden the appeal of these publications by first expanding our design coverage and now our colour intelligence. As ever, our wish is to put design and now colour into perspective and provide a voice of authority and integrity for all interests.
DAVID R SHAH
 
VIEWPOINT COLOUR No 1: NEW NATURE
CONTENTS
08 – 19 Colour News
Deep rporting into what is going on in the world of colour now/ Topics include: Patricia Urquiola’s portrait of a city; why pink is perfection for RedValentino; colourful conclusions from a decade of experimentation by Hella Jongerius, Gestalten; viewing history through a Kodachrome lens and more.
 
vp-colour_news
 
20-23 Design Context: Neo Nature
Humans are masters of adaptation, able to react to changing circumstances and innovate when faced with new challenges. We are witnessing the redefinition of nature and the evolution of a neo-natural world. In response, we are modifying our industries, attitudes and behaviours, and implementing new design methodologies that maximise our relationship with nature.
 
vp-colour_context-dragged
 
24 – 89 Colour Forecast 2017/18
Four major colour stories: ‘Engineering Nature’ reflecting our inherent connection to the natural world; ‘Alt. Farming’ recognising the inefficiency and wastefulness of current agricultural models; ‘Harvesting Waste’ reflecting how innovative designers are beginning to harvest postproduction and post-life waste streams; and ‘Future Mining’ based on the discovery and exploration of new raw materials that carry the legacy of industries past.
 
vp-colour-forecast
 
90 – 99  Visual Essay: Harvesting By Hand
Since 2012, photographer Hyung S Kim has immersed himself in taking pictures of the haenyeo female divers of Jeju, an island at the southern end of the Korean peninsula. For centuries these women, many now in their seventies and eighties, have dived to catch fish without the aid of breathing equipment. Hyung S Kim’s pictures capture the haenyeo as they emerge from diving, exhausted but exuding strength and power.
 
vp-colour_visual-essay
 
100 – 109 The Viewpoint Colour Interview: Crafting Colour with Ace & Jig
For Cary Vaughan and Jenna Wilson, colour is inseparable from texture and pattern – which has made Ace & Jig, their textile-based clothing line, an instant classic. And in a sea of minimalist design, Ace & Jig brings a fresh approach to colour, focusing less on chasing trends, and more on relaying a story and a feeling in each garment.
vp-colour_lnterview
110 – 121 Processing Colour
Celebrate the poetry of process. The application of dye and pigment to surface becomes an experimental art. Embracing the uncontrollable, dynamic colour is
captured in an imprint. Though the process is repeated, the reaction is unpredictable, so each replicated object is nonetheless unique.
 
vp-colour_processing
 
121-124 Pantone Colour of the Year
We look at the Pantone® Color of the Year 2017 – PANTONE 15-0343 Greenery and analyse with Leatrice Eiseman, executive director, Pantone Color Institute, the thinking behind the choice and what it means to the market.
 
vp-colour_pantone-color-of-the-year
 
122 – 128 Colour Influence: Red vs. Blue
When we are exposed to combined colour and light, our physiological state can also be affected. The blue and red spectrums in particular have been shown to affect our physical performance and wellbeing – and can even manipulate our internal body clocks.
 
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133 – 139 A Question of Colour
Here we speak with leading artists, designers and manufacturers to discover their favourite colours of the moment and the reason behind their choices. From teal to shades of green, the answers are surprising and informative.
vp-question-of-colour
 
140 – 152 Colour Futures: Primary Signals
Here we look at the long term, three-year zeitgeist in colour. In complex times we look to a reassuring, restricted palette. We are enamoured of the uncompromising clarity of primary red, yellow, blue and secondary green. When lines are being drawn and issues of nationality take centre stage around the world, we reimagine identities at a local and global level.
 
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